go to the home depot.. get you some zep purple cleaner in the gallon jug, mix you up a bunch and clean that engine bay lol as fars the plugs.. i dunno!

 

thats the whole point of this tread, to figure out what I need and dont need so I can clean, prep, and paint, and by the way grease and grim gives a car character, and my ride is the ron jeremy 3rd gen ludes

 

Rev,
Pic #2, Green arrow is pointing to the Ignition Coil, Black arrow is pointing to the Igniter. (There also seems to be a ?ground? wire that ends at the Igniter plug mounting bolt.)

Keeping vs. tucking: I imagine they could be tucked--and should be important if the Rywire harness uses the stock ignition components for an H22A.

 

Yes but being that I will be using a JDM h22a, isn't the coil in the dizzy, and what about the Igniter, is that in the dizzy as well.

 

first pic red arrows are air conditioning compressor clutch relays. From the bumper they are just right of where the battery goes.

 

I thought one of those was a fan relay too?

 

nope not on a '91. I am pretty sure its the same for all 3rd gen fuel injected atleast. Both fan relays are top right from fender side in underhood fuse box.

 

Ok, in the first pic green arrow what is this connector for, and I am assuming that I just disconnect this from the fuse box and keep it in the engine bay

 

How many wires/terminals are there? If its four its your alternator green plug.

 

Well its a 8 bay connector I am pretty sure but the only thing I saw coming off the underhood fuse box with that connector number is the alternator voltage regulator. So yeah basicaly the 4 wires going to the green plug on the alternator. Its connector c238 in 91 etm pics and wiring diagrams.

 

I was gonna relocate the fuse box in to the cab, but how in the hell do you do it. can you even de-pin all the wires or do they have to be cut.

Tomorrow I will start the disasemble of the rack and pinion, until I am shit faced, hopefully my family will help me out
Heres a pic of the engine bay so far

 

You are going to be real happy with this when it is all done. Is that a fluorescent head light conversion?

You should squeegee that floor with SuperClean a few times.

 

Is that a fluorescent head light conversion

Yes it is, I have the passenger side wired up, just gotta get the driver side done and I will be good to go

 

i just cut my fusebox wires one at a time and put bullet connectors on them so i wouldn't wire them up wrong.

 

Yeah, I was just reading Guessman's thread where he used a 23 Pin connector and made himself a quick connect wiring harness as he relocated his fuse box into the trunk, I think I will do it this way but instead it will be in the glove box.

 

Use solder on the conductor to connector and crimp on the wire insulator for maximum connection and durability.

An extension is probably your best bet without creating a whole new harness.

 

something like this would work great
http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/pre-wired/2,853.html

 

I cut all the wires mine is currently in the glove box with the distrubution box.
It doesnt fit with the fuse box cover lid btw. anyways i only had to extend like 7 or so wires to make it reach the gloves box all the others u can pull through. I also notched the back of the glove box the wires get pretty bulky so having the notch there makes it easier

The quick disconnect thing is a great idea, if i ever re do the wiring thats def gonna happen.You can pretty much tuck all those wires iirc. Word of advice though, COMPLETELY tape up those relays if ur hiding them behind the fender a tiny bit of water will give u a bad day or should i say night.

I fried 2 of the headlamp motor relays before i figured it out. luckily i had spares.

The day i did my wire tuck it was on my buddys front yard and it sarted raining so we started rushing to get things done. ive moved quite a few things around. these pics are kinda old

 

These are more recent ill try to get better ones and check plugs tomorrow

 

These are more recent ill try to get better ones and check plugs tomorrow

FUCK, I love the color of your header in this pic.

 

You should definetly check out waytekwire.com I bought like 13 different colors of 16 guage wire in 100 foot spools each. Plus I think they are in your same state! So shipping would be extra fast. They have a lot of other stuff too like terminal connectors. Also check out http://delcity.net I think both have a $20 or $25 minimum. But not positive.

http://order.waytekwire.com/cgi-bin...ansaweb?procfun+wordpr01+webfunc+M50+FUNCPARMS+WEBCMP(S0020):01+WEBID(S0020):01

I think you have an 88- or 89 this is for an 89: you might find the multiple connector to plug and play a wiring harness extension. Hondapartsnow.com Somebody recently posted honda pin connectors too. Well just looked and no connectors for 89 and limited for 91.

Best bet would be to pic up extra connectors at the junkyard and create a patch with new terminals with stock old plugs the length you need to glovebox. I did this on my fan harness to install an rf remote switch and alarm siren to know when my fan kicked on when it wasn't suppose to and draining my battery. Just get both plugs and reverse them. May want to do some depinning to. If you were going to add fuses to your system I would buy one of gange boxes on delcity.net or search for best price blue sea brand name boat fuse box. I have both.

 

yea i dont think it looks like that any more

Oh i also installed 2 slim fans both 12". cheap ebays work fine so far i like how they cleaned the bay up as well

 

Just got a few more things to strip off the engine bay, and I will be hitting it with the simple green, with that being said I need a little info on how to do a proper paint job that will look good and last.
First off, I think I will just rattle can it, I could go and buy a cheap spray gun, but I dont feel like cleaning the fucker and I don't think my little 10 gallon air compressor will keep up, so I feel that a rattle can is the best thing to do.

For the most part the paint in the engine bay is pretty good, there is only a little rust where the battery was at, which I will grind down to the metal, other wise I will just sand the factory paint, which leads me to my next question: what would be the best rattle can primer that will work for my situation, From reading on google a 2k primer is what most use, but I dont know what kind of 2k primer is best for my situation, so any help on rattle can primers like brand or type of 2k would be repped by me

Also here's a good site with info on painting
http://www.autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml

 

Rattle can won't last as long. But you do what you got too. I would just treat the rusted areas with phosphoric acid and steel wool. Wear gloves. I think there might still be some available online. Other wise por15 makes some bare metal prep that is the new green stuff. Never tried it but my dad bought some but hasn't used it yet. I would then use a self etching priper on the bare metal areas and follow up with a duplicolor base coat can and clear coat. Color matcing ofcourse. I think you can get it at autobarn.com I think. The rest I would just go over with rubbing compound then maybe shoot clear over. I am not sure if duplicolor makes self etching primer for bare metal but they might. It will say if it is on the can. I know rustoleum does but forget what color it is. Want to say olive or tan like the dupont autobody primer used to be or still is. I think this is the best solution but it is up to you.

 

clean clean clean prep work is the most inportan part

 

I want to rattle can my bay as well, hoping someone has answers/real world experience. Not, "I read that this and this works."

 

i got my buddy from fargo commin down today and is gonna give me training course on engine bay painting, he's been painting for 15 years, and may let me borrow is guns and compressor

 

NICE! you going for gold or a diff color engine bay? kinda off topic but what do you think of white car white bay white mounts. Red inserts and red v/c

 

Well Iam not sure yet on the color, but I have been leaning towards silver or charcoal, my H22 mounts and t-bar is a charcoal color, and the rear sub frame is gonna stay factory black, so I was thinking silver would be the best.

You not gonna really see the insert very much as they don't stand out like the mounts, if you are gonna go with a red VC I would also make the mounts read as well, you can also change your vac lines to red also. It depends on what you want or like,there are hundreds of engine bay pics on numerous threads, so look around and you may find something you like

 

Well i might be going over board with a tuck and shave soon, i thought jus having the little bit of red poking thru the munts might seen cool. i wasnt gonna say anything yet on the forum but ive got a h22a and tranny sitting in my garage right now =)

 

i wasnt gonna say anything yet on the forum but ive got a h22a and tranny sitting in my garage right now =)

I didnt want to say anything there either but mine's going to be here he 2nd week of jan

 

Well whatever you decide I am sure it will look good. The acid I pmn'd you works realy good. I highly reccomend it for any rusted areas. One thing I see is IF your not going to remove all those pipes and fittings on the firewall for a more profressional result and to give a better paint sealed edge, Pop off those rubber grommets and tape up the pipes. Like the a/c, shifter, heater core, a/c drain hose. I think the ac drain hose can carefuly be pulled out. If not you might be able to reach it from inside at the bottom of the evaporator core box. Especialy with color change. Any time you remove them you will see the original color and painted rubber looks like crap and flakes and cracks. As far as your brake booster and master cylinder that is up to you if you want to paint it same color or mask it off.

 

I just got back from the car wash with the rear sub frame and sway bay, and about 20 quarters less in my pocket, that grim was so damn think, I can even believe it, the shit sticks better then the paint:-x