Check the cam timing... do you have adjustible cam gears? make sure they didnt slip if you do..

 

i forgot to mention, i checked my cam sprockets. they're perfectly level when the crank's at tdc. they're stock, and there is no sign of slippage. i also found out that the cyp sensor is actually adjustable to a very small degree. i moved it around a bit, but that didn't work, either.

thanks, b20luda.

 

I don't see where you pulled the CLOCK fuse from the underhood fuse box in order to clear the code.

 

i reset the ecu and hoped for the best

i did several times after attempting to fix the wiring.

 

I pull my clock and EFI fuse to reset the ECU. Pull both at the same time for about 30 seconds.

I think you said you have a chipped ECU. If the problem persists, you should have a tuner try to reset the code. Maybe your ECU chip cannot reset that specific code by pulling the fuse.

 

resetting the ecu the way you would stock works the same as with a chipped ecu.

i was gonna say check your cam gears if they were adjustable, and check the t-belt alignment, but you said you already did those things.

next up, check your ignition timing. grab yourself a test light and set the idle and timing as you would stock, as described in my thread i posted about it.

if the distributor slipped, it can and usually will throw this code.

i'm kinda dealing with a problem similar to this with mansfield and the chipped ecu i recently sold him to use with his adj cam gears with the planned setting of +4/-4 in/ex.

only 4 things can throw the code 9:
-incorrect sensor resistance (bad sensor, or short or break in sensor wiring)
-no signal from the sensor (short or break in the sensor wiring, or bad sensor)
-distributor not properly sync'ed with the cam sensor
-bad ecu

also, you said you tested the resistance at the sensor, but did you check the resistance at the ecu plug that actually plugs into your chipped ecu? resistance should be the same as it is at the actual sensor.

 

Just for shits and giggles pull the ECU out of the car, then reinstall. That was the only thing that worked for me. Do you have a backup ECU?

 

i checked the resistance at the ecu as well, which came to the same as when i checked the sensor itself. and yes, i also pulled the ecu. no, i don't have a backup.

i don't see that it will make a difference but may as well try - i'll try using another chip i've programmed. it has slight changes to the fuel map but it is a good one.

i just don't see how the ecu would go bad from a disconnected wire unless that lead touched a power source or grounded out. but on my carpeted floorboard? i get more befuddled as time passes.

thanks for all your replies. i'm still open to more helpful suggestions.

 

I have a spare pk3 I'd like you try on it but you're a little too far away lol.

 

It is seemingly strange to me that it runs bad because of the sensor, because when mine was bad the car would sputter every couple of miles, but it ran fine otherwise, or with it unplugged.

 

i tuned the car to run as if it just rolled off the lot, so this sputtering i get half the time is what i'd call "running like poo." i won't put up with it, and i won't drive the car unless necessary. but if i restart the car most of the time it will run better, and vice versa.

*edit* i just tried to use another chip. same thing. i'm thinking of finding a person in town with a socketed ecu and trying theirs on for a minute.

 

maybe that sensor you got is a defective new part, wouldnt be the first time i seen that...

 

i tested the resistance as instructed in the online manual. both sensors read good. i can get another multimeter, digital, and make completely sure. if the sensor was bad, there wouldn't be any continuity, right?

 

i tested the resistance as instructed in the online manual. both sensors read good. i can get another multimeter, digital, and make completely sure. if the sensor was bad, there wouldn't be any continuity, right?

The sensor can be bad even if the resistance test checks out ok, ive delt with this many times before and really the only way you will see the problem is with a high speed probe (scope)... i just had this issue with a crank sensor wasnt a honda but still a magnetic type sensor...

Chances of the ECU just going bad is kinda unlikley, unless you have some hacked up wiring... bad grounds etc etc...

Personally i would try another sensor... 1000ohms is on the VERY VERY edge of the spectrum and resistance will change with tempature so it could be out of range hot... most of the time that paticular sensor is in the 800-860ohm range

 

Ok just a stupid ? you double checked the jumble of wires you said was not so bad, some how could you have mixed the wires up, you know reverse them? Not near my car so can't really look to see if maybe you reversed the plug as well if at all possible? All i can say is double check the wires sensor to ecu, maybe one of them grounded out some how.

 

i haven't needed to touch the wiring to the ecu since i went obd-1 two years ago. it was running perfectly. also, it's not possible to mix up the plugs or insert them reversed. i followed the wires from the harness through the jumper harness, to the ecu. nothing out of the ordinary except for the white wire disconnected. i guess it's possible that it grounded out somehow and affected my ecu. i'll be calling around today to see if anyone has an extra ecu.

 

did you see my post above?

 

yeah, sorry i forgot to mention that my distributor has a precise mark on it that goes across the top of the mounting bracket. it hasn't changed. i don't have an inductive timing light. i know it would be who of me to check it, and i will when i get the chance.

that would suck if i got a defective part. ya know, though, if all that happened is a wire came loose, why would my sensor go bad? that doesn't make sense, just like the ecu. i'm going to try my old sensor and see if i'm just a retard for not finding the broken wire sooner + got a defective part.

again, thank you all for your suggestions. i appreciate your helpfulness. :Rock:

 

personally, i think the harness you made still isnt fixed. from what you've described, the code is intermittent, which implies a loose connection somewhere. and you said you found that broken wire at the harness you made, so maybe it just isnt completely fixed and you need to go back and re-solder it again.

its also possible that the bad wire may or may not have fried both your sensors. unlikely, but possibly. i say go back to the harness and fix it again. then check sensor resistance at the ecu plug and compare it to resistance at the sensor. then check at the ecu plug again and jiggle the wiring while looking at the resistance and see if it fluctuates. if it does, you have a loose connection in the harness still.

 

What moto said makes some sense, a little off topic, but the ecu connector had ground wires that split for 86-91 rx-7's used to have to be re-soldered because they came loose after so many years. Bad solder or just bad workmanship, either way that fixed a lot of problems. If it doesn't fix the problem, at least you know its not it.

 

now you guys are speaking greek. i've never used this scope you speak of. however, i did have to measure the voltage of the sensor with the multimeter set on a/c if that means anything at all.

i fixed the break in the wire. i know that for a fact. it's on tight with one of those 18-22 ga crimp connectors. it is a good idea to clean up the jumper harness, though. i can still drive the car to work and back without worry, so i'll continue to do that. i haven't left base with my car pretty much all week anyway and i won't until this gets figured out. i'm going to take my time on it and not break a sweat. if it takes weeks, then so be it.

i'm going to do a thorough investigation in my off time this week. as if i haven't already. lol i'd like to thank you all for your support here. i think this thread is of as much use as i'm going to get. actually, one of my reasons for creating this thread was to help give anyone who might be experiencing the same thing some ideas/clues. you're welcome to provide any more input, but it's only up to me to do the work.

 

So I realized that I never did mention how I fixed this issue. I bought another ECU and poof, the error was gone.

I seem to be having the same issue again. I finally cleaned up my jumper harness and got rid of all the butt connectors. I also found something that really got me scratching my head: I had to swap the B14 and B16 pins. Apparently they've been wrong this entire time, which just amazes me as the pinout hasn't changed since I bought the harness. If I'd known how to swap the pins back then I wouldn't have hacked and connected the wires.

So yeah, one of the CYP wires was going to the crank sensor and vice versa without issue (or perceived issue). Maybe the ecu can't do a proper function check on the CYP if both wires aren't going to it? Some of this isn't making sense. I'll let you know how it all goes once I figure it out.

Anyway, I just thought I'd follow up with the solution to my problem, however temporary it may have been.

And why has nobody told me how annoying it was that I didn't capitalize my sentences back then?!

 

I fixed this over the weekend. It seriously only took 5 minutes to tell I had one of the CYP wires pinned to the incorrect spot on the ECU. I must have mixed it up while trying to fix the issue back then. She runs and drives like new again! Hopefully I won't ever have to add another entry to this thread LOL