damn, you needed 2 washers for the calipers?

 

I needed 4 per bolt.

It spaced it out perfectly.

 

Nice job sean

 

This write-up does a good job of simplifying the task for anyone who doesn't want to read through multiple older threads. Thanks for making it idiot-proof right down to the thickness of washers required!

 

Andrew your welcome, that was the purpose of the my post, was to update and get as much detail as possible for the ones who are looking to do this upgrade.

And also to show that for a relative low amount of investment you can upgrade the bigger brakes with OEM stuff.

well you didn't really need 2 on the outside (with the head of bolt) it's the 2 on the inside that do the spacing. stock doesn't use a washer so I didn't use one on the outside, only the inside.

Correct if using the stock bolts.

I purchased bigger head and 30mm long bolts to replace the OEM ones, might as well they are old and I wanted grade 8 stuff.



On another note, I bled the system this morning and all was nice and secure no leaks and I took her out for a drive.
Annnnnd......it does stop a little sooner than the stock stuff. So all in all, it was worth it.

I like....:emthup:

 

well you didn't really need 2 on the outside (with the head of bolt) it's the 2 on the inside that do the spacing. stock doesn't use a washer so I didn't use one on the outside, only the inside.

 

Ok so I decided to do my own bigger brake upgrade after many years of debating.

Yeah, where have you been for the last ten years? :razz: :lol:

Its debatable on whether or not going bigger is going to help with stopping,

Erm... it's not at all debatable, it helps.

the rears are only going to get a bigger rotor and 5th gen rear brake pad as soon as I can get me the caliper adapter to push the stock caliper further out.
I do not want to mess with the parking brake and rather keep it fully funtional ebrake that can go back to stock should I choose too.

If you choose the right rear set-up (caliper) then it's easy to keep the e-brake as-is and to go back to stock if required.

Step 3. - Bend the dust shield backwards to clear the 4th gen vtec caliper bracket.

Or just remove the shield as I've done on every brake mod for the last ten years+ ;-)

Step 4. - Purchase washers and new longer bolts. What I purchased were:

1. 19mm head x 30mm length bolts

I've never used anything other than the stock bolts, they fit and work just fine.
And it removes the need to have those horrible extra spacer washers next to the bolt head.

Maybe it's just the angle of the pic but that appears as though the disc/rotor is set to one side (left) slightly!?

As we know the holes in these discs/rotors is bigger than the stock ones the disc will move about on them as it's no longer secured by the two bolts.
The question is...
How well does it fit over the centre? Is the bore size correct to give a snug fit here?

 

Yeah, where have you been for the last ten years? :razz: :lol:

Erm... it's not at all debatable, it helps.

If you choose the right rear set-up (caliper) then it's easy to keep the e-brake as-is and to go back to stock if required.

Or just remove the shield as I've done on every brake mod for the last ten years+ ;-)

I've never used anything other than the stock bolts, they fit and work just fine.
And it removes the need to have those horrible extra spacer washers next to the bolt head.

Maybe it's just the angle of the pic but that appears as though the disc/rotor is set to one side (left) slightly!?

As we know the holes in these discs/rotors is bigger than the stock ones the disc will move about on them as it's no longer secured by the two bolts.
The question is...
How well does it fit over the centre? Is the bore size correct to give a snug fit here?

Yeah I have been watching for those 10+ years and waiting for the day that I can concentrate on the brakes other than regular maintanence stuff. :lol:
I was learning from you guys who have done it. This write is just for updating purposes as well as better pictures. Who does not like clear close ups.....:lol:

Yes its the angle because its got nice clearance on both sides. And the rotors spin freely.

The rotors once pushed back by either the lug nut to hold it in place or when you put the rims back on it forces the rotor back into place perfectly snug. :top:

 

Having compared specs on rotors a few times now, I will confirm, the centre bore is an exact fit.

 

1funryd: Something is disturbing me a lot about the rotors used for this mounting.

4th gen "big" rotors have a thickness of 23mm, the "Mini" rotors you use have only a thickness of 22mm.

For my big brakes, i uses MG ZR 160 front discs, they have a thickness of 25mm, and instead of using washers, i machined by myself spacers (6.8mm thickness), in way to be absolutly sure that all faces stay parralel.

About the bolts, i don't totally agree with 88SElude, original bolts are too short to be used for that mounting, in my point of view.
I use OEM bolts: those who fixes the rod on the front lower arm.
They are a little bit longer and fill all the threads of the caliper support.


If you want pics, i can take them quickly :smilejap:

 

4th gen "big" rotors have a thickness of 23mm, the "Mini" rotors you use have only a thickness of 22mm.

That's not an issue.

For my big brakes, i uses MG ZR 160 front discs, they have a thickness of 25mm, and instead of using washers, i machined by myself spacers (6.8mm thickness), in way to be absolutly sure that all faces stay parralel.

I use spacers as well but mine are 3mm and are centred.

About the bolts, i don't totally agree with 88SElude, original bolts are too short to be used for that mounting, in my point of view

Well your point of view doesn't agree with my use of them on many cars and 100+k's of miles without a single issue.
I'll let my real world experience counter your opinion ;-)

Spacers (exactly 6.8mm of thickness and parallel faces)

MG ZR rotor centered Inside the big brake support

No idea why you'd need 6.8mm spacers if using the same calipers as we've documented.
Are you using different calipers and/or brackets than the usual 4g Lude/ NSX/Legends?
Those brackets look to be giving very little clearance on the 25mm disc/rotor.

For example, i also use Rover 623 front brakes,

I guess that might explain your clearance issues.

Not going to be an issue for our American friends in that case.

For the rear, i also uses MG rotors and MG ZR calipers, if you want some pics, don't hesitate to ask them:smilejap:

Well that's because you followed my lead when sourcing the rears.
Again, not at all easy to get in the US.

 

Please do share...

 

Front Wheel with big brake (Rota GT3 16.7, ET43 if i correctly remember)




Spacers (exactly 6.8mm of thickness and parallel faces)




MG ZR rotor centered Inside the big brake support




OEM bolt : Under the head of the bolt, oem splited washer , on the other side, the spacer



The final mounting: yeah , i know it's rusty, but it's a daily drive, nt a show car :lol:
You can also see a stainless steel centering washer machined by myself for my Rota




And a little "extra":OEM Wheel bolt machined by myself with a 60° cone instead of being spherical... once again for my Rota...

 

1funryd, i just want to add something, your mounting is working, i have absolutely no problem with that.
I just believe there is a slightly better solution and it's for that reason that i want to share with us the technical solution i uses :smilejap:

For example, i also use Rover 623 front brakes, they are far less expensives than buying Honda calipers, but they are absolutely the same that 17CL15VN Nissin calipers

For the rear, i also uses MG rotors and MG ZR calipers, if you want some pics, don't hesitate to ask them:smilejap:

Forget to tell that like 88SELude, i also deleted the dust shield, a lot of recent cars don't have them anymore, and uses a little dust shield mounted on the lower ball joint

 

...For the rear, i also uses MG rotors and MG ZR calipers, if you want some pics, don't hesitate to ask them:smilejap:...

Can you show pics of this setup as well?

And Jon I am not sure if I saw your setup with pics, if you would kindly post them as well to make this thread more insightful, myself and the rest of the members would appreciate it as well.

Thanks.

 

88SElude:

What i want to say about the lengh of the bolt it's not that it's going to cause any sort of issue by using the original bolt.
Friends of mine that are track racing since more than 10 years ago have also uses the original bolt without any problem.

But i prefer to install a longer bolt, because brakes are not a "fancy thing" and i just want to be sure having no problem with them...

And the support of the caliper allow us to use longer bolts, why don't uses the unused thead in way to secure the mounting?

It's my opinion and i prefer recommend safety, it's not by using a little bit longer bolt that can cause any issue :smilejap:

About the thickness of the spacer, all i can say is that Rver 623 calipers are 100% the same than the 4th gen Nissin caliper.
I uses before the Nissin calipers on another mount, the spacers has the same thickness...

Do you also uses MG ZR rotors?

I don't believe that the difference of thickness is caused by using Lucas calipers, i 'm sure at 100% that they are absolutly the same than the Nissin 17CL15VN, cause i also owned these too at the same time and compared them .
I can also tell that i machined 6.8mm spacers for friends of mine that installed on theirs 3rd gen lude Nissin calipers and MG ZR rotors: it works perfectly and rotors are perfectly centered...

For prooving it, a friend of mine comes home for the installation of a tri-y obx header this monday, i'll take pics when he will be at home ...

I don't understand what are you meaning by talking about "real world experience"???
Could you explain me this sentence please?

My brakes are real, not photoshoped, and it's not my first lude mounted like that...
Maybe you're talking about my opinion about using the original bolt instead of using longer bolt?
It's only an opinion, just to be secured ...


About MG ZR rear brakes, i believe that maybe not easy to find in USA :smilejap:

But, once again, i don't understand what you want to say when you write that i "follow your lead" about rear upgrade.
This upgrade is known nearly since 10 years or more here in France, the "Honda prelude club de France" has a lot of "track racers" and some of them tried since a lot of year to upgrade theirs 3rd gen lude in all the way possible!:smilejap:

I don't deny that some ideas where coming from other country, but some of us made also some interesting discoveries...

It's for that reason that i try to give to all of us my point of view and my experience, to share with the whole world of the prelude owners :smilejap:

 

What i want to say about the lengh of the bolt it's not that it's going to cause any sort of issue by using the original bolt.
Friends of mine that are track racing since more than 10 years ago have also uses the original bolt without any problem.

Exactly.

But i prefer to install a longer bolt, because brakes are not a "fancy thing" and i just want to be sure having no problem with them...

But there are no problems with them at all.
You are introducing a potential problem by using a longer bolt and adding spacers.

And the support of the caliper allow us to use longer bolts, why don't uses the unused thead in way to secure the mounting?

A longer bolt gives no more security.
There are no unused threads on mine, so not an item.

It's my opinion and i prefer recommend safety, it's not by using a little bit longer bolt that can cause any issue :smilejap:

As said above, it is no safer.

About the thickness of the spacer, all i can say is that Rver 623 calipers are 100% the same than the 4th gen Nissin caliper.
I uses before the Nissin calipers on another mount, the spacers has the same thickness...

The calipers may well be identical in every way, that's not what causes the clearance problem.
The caliper bracket is what determines the disc/rotor to bracket clearance.

Do you also uses MG ZR rotors?

Not exactly, I've used MGZS180 rotors for circa ten years. Same as the ZR 282mm rotors.

I don't believe that the difference of thickness is caused by using Lucas calipers, i 'm sure at 100% that they are absolutly the same than the Nissin 17CL15VN, cause i also owned these too at the same time and compared them .

Yes, I said that above, it's not the calipers.

I can also tell that i machined 6.8mm spacers for friends of mine that installed on theirs 3rd gen lude Nissin calipers and MG ZR rotors: it works perfectly and rotors are perfectly centered...

Well as the first one to use these parts I've never used more than 3mm spacing to get perfectly centred while using Honda brackets.

I don't understand what are you meaning by talking about "real world experience"???
Could you explain me this sentence please?

I mean that as I've used these on many many cars for many many miles without any problems ... that means far more than your 'opinion' as to their safety.

Maybe you're talking about my opinion about using the original bolt instead of using longer bolt?
It's only an opinion, just to be secured ...

That is exactly what I was talking about :emthup:

But, once again, i don't understand what you want to say when you write that i "follow your lead" about rear upgrade.
This upgrade is known nearly since 10 years or more here in France, the "Honda prelude club de France" has a lot of "track racers" and some of them tried since a lot of year to upgrade theirs 3rd gen lude in all the way possible!:smilejap:

:lol:
Trust me, I passed this information on to many French and Dutch track drivers when I pioneered it. I ran a club that travelled across Europe and was affiliated with many Euro clubs.





Well Sean!
For trying to get this neat and tidy it sure did get messy pretty quick ;-)

 

88SELude:

i don't agree with you : just explain me how i can introduce any problem by using spacers and at the same time, YOU don't introduce any problem with your spacer?
Because of a difference of 3mm between yours and mine?

BE SERIOUS, please!:lol: You also uses spacers, you also introduce a potential issue...:lol:
It's evident that the thicker the spacer is, the bigger the potential issue is... but my "real world experience" tell me that my mounting is as safe as yours...


I'll take pictures of my friend car tomorrow, maybe i'll find the answer by myself about these 3.8mm of difference!
Believe in my "real world experience", i'm not so stupid as you are actually thinking!
When i tell you that i have compared the Nissin calipers, it's with the Nissin brakets, not with the Rover braket!


Another question:
Are you joking me when you says that you don't uses exactly the same rotors than me?
ZR 282mm rotors and ZS 282mm rotors are absolutely the same... explain me where is the difference between them


About using MG ZR rear brackets and rotors, i'm sorry to read what you are pretending... ... what's going to be the next step?

It's easy to pretend, more difficult to prove...

For example, i got a PK2 head with H23 valves, i have the idea alone, no one tells me that it were possible ... ... but i will NEVER pretend that i'm the first guy on the Earth having this idea, the only thing i can say it's that i find this idea by myself!!! And i also can NOT prove it!!

The same thing for MY homade IMS, you and i were having the same idea... but don't come and tell me that you were leading me in that way ...

And what about PK2YEC pistons??? Are you pretending you noticed BEFORE me that they got a dome that's a little bit bigger than the PK2EC pistons?
When i tell you that, the first thing you've asked me where pics.... and i gave them to you... ... no answer at all :!:
Maybe i have find something you never noticed before and that was under you noose for so many years :lol::lol::lol:

The thing i wanna says is that i truely believe that it will be a good idea to use 25mm thick rotors instead of using 22mm thick rotors, because OEM 4th gen lude are 23mm thick ... ... why are you talking about any clearance issue if you are using the same rotors than me?
Where did you measure the clearance exactly?


1funryd:

I don't want to cause any trouble here, just want to share my "real life" experience with us, that's all.
You have done a good work , about this and others things, i just want to help if possible, that's all :smilejap:

 

i don't agree with you : just explain me how i can introduce any problem by using spacers and at the same time, YOU don't introduce any problem with your spacer?
Because of a difference of 3mm between yours and mine?

The difference is nearer 4mm than 3mm.
What I said was that you introduce a potential for more problems by using more spacing when it's not required.

BE SERIOUS, please!:lol: You also uses spacers, you also introduce a potential issue...:lol:
It's evident that the thicker the spacer is, the bigger the potential issue is... but my "real world experience" tell me that my mounting is as safe as yours...

So make your mind up and stop being an asshat.

I'll take pictures of my friend car tomorrow, maybe i'll find the answer by myself about these 3.8mm of difference!

Well how can I explain it for you? I've not got that extra spacing and have never needed it so how can I tell you why you need it?
Geez.

Believe in my "real world experience", i'm not so stupid as you are actually thinking!

You're the only one saying anything about you being stupid. If the cap fits....

Another question:
Are you joking me when you says that you don't uses exactly the same rotors than me?
ZR 282mm rotors and ZS 282mm rotors are absolutely the same... explain me where is the difference between them

Here you go again..
Are you trying to look stupid?
I stated that they were the same
Are you having translation problems?

About using MG ZR rear brackets and rotors, i'm sorry to read what you are pretending... ... what's going to be the next step?

It's easy to pretend, more difficult to prove...

Why are you being such a dick? :dontgetit:
My proof is documented in many places. I really don't give a toss what you(or any other internet persona) believes or doesn't believe. :lol:

For example, i got a PK2 head with H23 valves, i have the idea alone, no one tells me that it were possible ... ... but i will NEVER pretend that i'm the first guy on the Earth having this idea, the only thing i can say it's that i find this idea by myself!!! And i also can NOT prove it!!

I really don't care that you may have pioneered a pointless modification.

The same thing for MY homade IMS, you and i were having the same idea... but don't come and tell me that you were leading me in that way ...

Really? So how come you ask me for help with it as my idea was further advanced.
Not that I care, I'm not into internet pissing matches.
You claim all the 'glory' you like. :lol:

And what about PK2YEC pistons??? Are you pretending you noticed BEFORE me that they got a dome that's a little bit bigger than the PK2EC pistons?
When i tell you that, the first thing you've asked me where pics.... and i gave them to you... ... no answer at all :!:
Maybe i have find something you never noticed before and that was under you noose for so many years :lol::lol::lol:

WTF are you talking about?
I asked you for pics to help explain what you were talking about in your Frenglish, pics make it easier to translate.
You sent me pics of pistons that are in my engine. So you confirm you have the same type of piston in your A7 as I have in mine, no idea where the ground-breaking discovery is here.
You seem hung up on the notion that the A7 has different pistons to other B20Ax engines which is something I've told people on here since we first talked about the engine differences, what exactly did you think made up the extra compression?

The thing i wanna says is that i truely believe that it will be a good idea to use 25mm thick rotors instead of using 22mm thick rotors, because OEM 4th gen lude are 23mm thick ...

So what?
Using 25mm rotors is a little better but for different reasons than you think.
The fact that 4G VTEC Lude rotors are 23mm is totally irrelevant.
22mm rotors actually give more clearance and is actually the easier option for many because it gives more tolerance on the clearance and of course are easily available here.

... why are you talking about any clearance issue if you are using the same rotors than me?
Where did you measure the clearance exactly?

Well obviously you measure the clearance on the closest components, not much calling it 'clearance' if you measure it anywhere else.



:baa:

 

:lol::lol::lol:

You are a very funny guy, thanks a lot for making me laugh so loud!:lol::lol::lol:

Well, i'm loosing my time trying to explain you anything, i'm pretty sure it's not a question of translation, my "frenglish" is not in cause... but your ego!:evil smile:

About pistons, i explained to you that there's 2 types of pistons mounted inside B20A7 motors, is it clear now for you or once again you don't understand???
First type with PK2 head, the other with PK2Y head, do you understand now???
Do you now that there were 2 type of head "factory mounted" on the B20A7???
Did you ever noticed that or not???

Maybe it's too hard to you to comprehend some simple thing like that, please, search in your neighborhood somebody intelligent who will try to explain that to you :lol::lol::lol:


Talking about proofs, where are they please? Make me laugh once again!:lol:
It's very strange that you claim beeing so known and that i've never heard about you...

When you says

" Not exactly, I've used MGZS180 rotors for circa ten years. Same as the ZR 282mm rotors."

What do you mean by saying "not exactly", are they the same or not...
... who's looking stupid now???
I truely believe it's you...:jehon:



About claiming "glory", who was claiming glory first, me by telling that i've got the same idea at the same time than you (talking about IMS) or you by telling that i follow your lead???(talking about rear brake upgrade)

Who is pretending giving the "holy words" through the world , going from tracks to tracks throught France, Dutchland, Great Britain and others country maybe????

Do you really believe you are God???:lol::lol::lol:

Well, i'm really sorry, i was thinking you were an interesting person, i was wrong.
The only thing you prove to me is that you've got a oversized ego, me and my pointless modifications we tell you "goodbye" :baa:

You are telling stupid thing : i DON'T use MORE spacing than needed, are you blind, don't you see the picture i've posted before with my MG ZR/ZS rotors ( which are the same but not as you said)...
My rotors are perfectly centered in the brackets, how can they be perfectly centered and at the same time the spacers too thick???

And what about when you says:

"
Using 25mm rotors is a little better but for different reasons than you think."

Just show me where i wrote something about the reasons of using 25mm thick rotors instead of 22 mm thick???
I said that i prefer thicker rotors, bu don't explained why and you are able to tell me that i uses them for a bad reason???
You are extremely surprising, could you read in my mind???
Are you really God???

Try to answer to these simple questions and show me that you are more intelligent than your precedent answers... or follow yourself and continue to makes circles...:lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

:lol::lol::lol:

You are a very funny guy, thanks a lot for making me laugh so loud!:lol::lol::lol:

Well they say the stupid laugh to cover up their inability to understand.

Well, i'm loosing my time trying to explain you anything, i'm pretty sure it's not a question of translation, my "frenglish" is not in cause... but your ego!:evil smile:

Everyone who knows anything knows that that is simply not the case. But you carry on believing your own bs.
Your arrogance is the issue here, you simply don't like having your work questioned and like to cause a fuss over nothing.

It's quite obvious through all of your PMs that you simply dislike anyone who questions anything you say or claims anything isn't your doing. Otherwise why would you send what are actually quite nasty PMs to people about others on here?

About pistons, blah blah blah.....

You merely asked me about these things as if you'd discovered something new. All you did was mention things that were already common knowledge but explained it very poorly. After I translated what you were trying to say (with the help of the pics I asked you for) we ended the topic as it was old news. You seem to have an issue with understanding that.

Maybe it's too hard to you to comprehend some simple thing like that, please, search in your neighborhood somebody intelligent who will try to explain that to you :lol::lol::lol:

ho ho ho .. how we laughed.

Talking about proofs, where are they please? Make me laugh once again!:lol:
It's very strange that you claim beeing so known and that i've never heard about you...

Like I say, my proof is in the real world, not just the internet.
You've never heard of me even though you copy my ideas.
Maybe it's because my ego doesn't make me post up everywhere about how great I am.
It's about the work and results, not the adoration some seem to desire so much.

" Not exactly, I've used MGZS180 rotors for circa ten years. Same as the ZR 282mm rotors."

What do you mean by saying "not exactly", are they the same or not...
... who's looking stupid now???
I truely believe it's you...:jehon:

Well that just shows your lack of knowledge, particularly in the history of such things.
Do some research.
"Not exactly" is quite simple, I don't use discs for the ZR as they weren't available when I first did this mod. So I used what was available at that time, the discs from a ZS180.
The ZR then followed by using the same braking system that was used on the ZS. Hence not ZR discs but the same specs, as I stated.
Maybe it was too tricky for you to comprehend.
Yes, maybe I look stupid. But oddly I don't really care one iota. Because if you're the smart cookie here I'd rather not be in the same category.

About claiming "glory", who was claiming glory first, me by telling that i've got the same idea at the same time than you (talking about IMS) or you by telling that i follow your lead???(talking about rear brake upgrade)

I'm not claiming anything, merely stating a fact.

Who is pretending giving the "holy words" through the world , going from tracks to tracks throught France, Dutchland, Great Britain and others country maybe????

Wow you really can switch it around.
Your problem is quite obvious to everyone. I've not claimed anything, merely stated the facts of what has occurred. You seem to be upset by that.
WTF has religion got to do with anything? Do you have issues?
BTW do you mean Deutchsland (which is Germany)? Or the land of the Dutch (which is part of the Netherlands)? Either way I've been to both.

Do you really believe you are God???:lol::lol::lol:

Yes.
And who are you to question that?
To those with any religious beliefs I will point out that that was entirely sarcastic.

Well, i'm really sorry, i was thinking you were an interesting person, i was wrong.
The only thing you prove to me is that you've got a oversized ego, me and my pointless modifications we tell you "goodbye" :baa:

Well if it means you stop sending me PMs etc.. then that's all good with me.


WTF!?
oh me god he's still here whittering on......

You are telling stupid thing : i DON'T use MORE spacing than needed, are you blind, don't you see the picture i've posted before with my MG ZR/ZS rotors ( which are the same but not as you said)...
My rotors are perfectly centered in the brackets, how can they be perfectly centered and at the same time the spacers too thick???

Which his why I questioned it and why you got so pissy in your pants about it.
You are the only one I've ever known to use 6.8mm of spacing so something you are doing is either different or wrong.
I asked you to clarify but you decided to be an asshat instead.
That is really simple to understand but you choose not to.
How dare anyone question you

And what about when you says:

Just show me where i wrote something about the reasons of using 25mm thick rotors instead of 22 mm thick???
I said that i prefer thicker rotors, bu don't explained why and you are able to tell me that i uses them for a bad reason???
You are extremely surprising, could you read in my mind???
Are you really God???

You tell me the reasons why you think that and I'll then show you why that isn't the best reason for that choice.

Try to answer to these simple questions and show me that you are more intelligent than your precedent answers... or follow yourself and continue to makes circles...:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Well I've often answered your questions but then you go off claiming you knew it all along.
If you asked better questions it might help.
But at least you think you're funny. I'm sure that helps you.


Sean: all I can say is that I offer my apologies for our incessant friend here and my part in making this thread a little untidy.
When you get people offering different issues/resolutions that they have kept secret for the last ten years it's hard not to question their methods/reasoning.
Maybe make a new thread but lock it after the first post ;-)

 

88Selude:

Instead of affirming false things , proove them or please , shut up :lol:
You are dreaming awaken, show us all those pm that you pretending i send to you!
You are a pretty good liar so, you can try to explain your point of view as the only truth all long as you want, but i still think that your "real life" is not so real as you are believing :lol::lol::lol:

Well, good bye Mr Liar, it's all that you was able to proove here...:baa:

 

Instead of affirming false things , proove them or please , shut up :lol:

Yeah whatever.
Anyone remotely more important than a nobody already knows and needs no further evidence of anything.
You're showing signs of Napoleon syndrome.

You are dreaming awaken, show us all those pm that you pretending i send to you!

Which ones? The ones where you ask me to purposely hinder your countryman in his quest for some knowledge on here? And slag him off and call him names?
Or the gibberish about the pistons etc..?
Or are you now claiming you didn't do such things?

You are a pretty good liar so, you can try to explain your point of view as the only truth all long as you want, but i still think that your "real life" is not so real as you are believing :lol::lol::lol:

See that's where yo hit another issue, again anyone vaguely attentive would state that I simply don't lie, I never need to as I have nothing to cover up and to pretend about.

Well, good bye Mr Liar, it's all that you was able to proove here...:baa:

Yeah, shame you came back really as doing so just proves that you are not a man of his word.

If you wish to continue your childish nonsense please do so my PM rather than spoiling threads with it.


Again, sorry to anyone reading this crap, maybe if a mod ever calls in the irrelevant stuff can be removed.

 

:lol::lol::lol:

Onc again, you make me laugh, you'r also a psychiatrist! :lol::lol::lol:

Well, i'll stop here with you, you are too much ridiculous , everything you see is twisted by your oversized EGO, it's well known here and i've been warned about that :baa:

One last thing: 1funryd shows a pics of his rotor Inside the braket and you answered that it looks not centered...
You also said the same thing about my mounting... isn't it strange that everything you see look not centered to you??? And only for you???:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Next time i'll show to everybody pictures of a 4th gen lude 17CL15VN Nissin caliper and braket, mounted on a 3rd gen lude with MG ZR rotor(not ZS, as they are the same-but-not as you argue so funily before) AND with 6.8mm spacers...
We'll see what sort of explanation are you going to find then...:baa:

 

Geez are you still here whittering on with your nonsense.......

Well, i'll stop here with you, you are too much ridiculous , everything you see is twisted by your oversized EGO, it's well known here and i've been warned about that :baa:

Yes of course you were warned, that's why you were so nice in your PMs when asking questions all the time.
Maybe you should start a thread about those pistons you're so hyped over. Then we can show how ridiculous you are by posting the pics and your very poor understanding of it all.

One last thing:

Another one? How many times are you going to say goodbye before you finally do the decent thing and fuck off?

1funryd shows a pics of his rotor Inside the braket and you answered that it looks not centered...

No I didn't. I asked if it was the angle of the pic, to which San confirmed it was.
Another case of you bullshitting and/or not understanding what is being said. You make very poor arguments so why bother?

You also said the same thing about my mounting... isn't it strange that everything you see look not centered to you??? And only for you???

I said nothing of the sort about your mounting. Again a total lack of understanding (or stupidity) on your part.
You're just making yourself look bitter and stupid now by making things up that were never said.

Next time i'll show to everybody pictures of a 4th gen lude 17CL15VN Nissin caliper and braket, mounted on a 3rd gen lude with MG ZR rotor(not ZS, as they are the same-but-not as you argue so funily before) AND with 6.8mm spacers...

We thought you already had. Are you having memory/reality issues now as well?
You need to do something about that before it gets much worse.

We'll see what sort of explanation are you going to find then...

How can I explain something you've done? Are you really that stupid that you can't explain your own actions?

 

Just for you Sean ;-)

Before:


After:


There is very little to learn about the clearance etc as there are simply no issues to be concerned about, they simply fit in place of the stock stuff.
The only thing that some may notice is the different angle of the e-brake cable but over ten years it's never caused any problems and there's no reason why it should.
Of course there is one very important thing to note when fitting these but I won't be delaying anyone doing this swap by waiting until someone else has the chance to point it out.

For those that don't know (or are curious), the Rover range (that we are talking about) is based on the same platform as the Civic.

 

Thank you.

So just so I am clear for myself, you are using the Range Rover caliper?

 

So just so I am clear for myself, you are using the Range Rover caliper?

Nope, nothing to do with Range Rovers at all.
Rover MG (specifically the ZS180).

 

I will say, I merely skimmed the last 10 or so comments on this do to the great debate happening.

However, in case you aren't aware, Sean, Fast brakes sells a "Big Brake Kit" for the rear. It is little more than 11" rotors, and a spacer for the rear caliper to space it out a bit. You use the stock caliper, and and the rotors they send you.

That's probably what I'll end up using for the time being anyway.

 

Yes thanks bro, I do know about fastbrakes option.
I was just trying to see what other options we have out there before I decide to go that route.

1funryd:

About rear brake upgrade, i'll make for you some pics tomorrow, the only one i've got no is about the little arm holding the parking cable (that i've modified in way to be sure having no issue with the cable angle) and one much showing the caliper....

So you modified the arm for the ebrake cable bracket to make that work on your rear caliper?

 

1funryd:

About rear brake upgrade, i'll make for you some pics tomorrow, the only one i've got no is about the little arm holding the parking cable (that i've modified in way to be sure having no issue with the cable angle) and one much showing the caliper.

Now, pics of a friend car with front MG ZR rotor and 4th gen prelude BB1 brake, using 6.8mm spacer...

So, everybody (except Mr 88SELude) have Under their eyes another proof of what i'm talking about... if someone (exept Mr "know-all-about-everything") have any question , i will be happy to answer to them as soon as possible :smilejap:

88SeLude: the only reason why i still answering to your "attacks" is to let you show us what kind of guy you are, thanks a lot to contribute to it :lol::lol::lol::lol: ( oh, i forgot to thanks your immense EGO )

 

1funryd:

About rear brake upgrade, i'll make for you some pics tomorrow, the only one i've got no is about the little arm holding the parking cable (that i've modified in way to be sure having no issue with the cable angle) and one much showing the caliper.






Now, pics of a friend car with front MG ZR rotor and 4th gen prelude BB1 brake, using 6.8mm spacer...






So, everybody (except Mr 88SELude) have Under their eyes another proof of what i'm talking about... if someone (exept Mr "know-all-about-everything") have any question , i will be happy to answer to them as soon as possible :smilejap:

88SeLude: the only reason why i still answering to your "attacks" is to let you show us what kind of guy you are, thanks a lot to contribute to it :lol::lol::lol::lol: ( oh, i forgot to thanks your immense EGO )

As much as i was planning on staying out of this, mostly because this thread has been filled with enough garbage already.

88SE is a widely respected member on here for a number of reasons, and people like to get into shit slinging contests with him. He knows what he's talking about. He is one of the most knowledgeable members on here. I know i learned a lot from him personally.

He hasn't once "insulted" you. He doesn't sugarcoat anything. All he's done has responded to your baseless insults and give you the information he has. You're the one starting shit. You're the one insulting him. All he's done is merely corrected you.

You might think he's being an ass, and okay, he can kinda be an ass sometimes, but to be fair, he has every right to be an ass. He talks straight, and doesn't worry about anyone's feelings. I respect that in today's "car culture" where everyone's stupid opinion must be respected as fact and if you tell someone they are doing something wrong you're a "hater".

I don't know why you're using a larger spacer, or why you'd need one. Id assume you're using a different rotor than we are talking about with different spacing, or perhaps your knuckle is slightly different.

Either way, he hasn't given out any incorrect information in this thread. Just because you don't like what he has to say doesn't justify slinging shit in a thread about brakes.

 

1funryd:

Not exactly, i modified the arm coming with the MG ZR caliper, in way to redirect the angle made by the cable.
You can also use the arm as it comes with the caliper but i don't like this solution , the cable will make an angle "too close" ( i don't know if it's cleary explained)

You can use only the MG braket with the 3rd gen lude but i don't like at all this solution, it works but don't look "mechanical" at my eyes...


To resume: the mounting is "straight" bolt-on with the MG ZR (or ZS , but i didn't verified by myself) rotor , caliper and braket.
I just correct a potential issue by modifiying the arm, that's all :smilejap:

Frijoles:

First, i'm not here to "shit slinging contest" with nobody :smilejap:
I'm here since 4 years and a half and i'm usually very discrete

I wrote in my profile a signature, "sorry if i'm ununderstandable, i'm french", it explains how much it's difficult to me sometimes to be understanded also...

88Selude is maybe somebody who's widely respected, because of it's knowledege or other things...

Usually, i WIDELY RESPECT ANYBODY , and only if a person becomes insulting or patronizing , he looses my respect ... mainly when a person pretend falses things about what i wrote to him in PM

You tells me that he's one of the most knowledgable member here, but it doesn't give him the right to be comtemptuous .

You don't know me, we've never met , you don't even know what's my job or which graduate have i ,so you cannot jugde of my knowledge and i understand it.
But you are not comtemptuous with me, and i will not be with you but i will be with this guy pretending falses things about what i asked him by PM...

It's easy for him to claim without proof, you all will believe him easily because he's not usually a liar.
But instead of telling that he don't understand what i'm talking about, he prefer denies that someone can know something better than him about 3rd gen lude ... and after all, i don't care at all

You write that he wasn't insulted me, but in that case, how do you call words he uses:

"be an asshat" or "such a dick"

Well, about what i'm thinking about him, he have the power to make me laugh and i thanks him a lot for that! :lol:
But i'm really sure in real he's a nice guy , a little bit arrogant but instead of saying that he don't understand what i'm talking about ( i'm french, my English is awfull, i know it), he prefers pretend falses things , but why???

Well, i don't care about him, i'm happy to see that there's some people here who try to understand what i'm talking about (like &funryd or you for example) instead of pretending that i'm leaded by them like 88selude...


About my calipers braket and the reason why i have to use thicker spacers, really i don't know...
I machined spacers for 6 or 8 3rd gen lude, always mounted with 4th gen brakes ( brakes+brackets) , execepted mine ( mounted with Rover 623 SI calipers and brakets), ALWAYS of a thickness of 6.8mm
You maybe right , the difference is surely coming from the use of MG rotor :smilejap:

I don't agree with you when you says that he didn't insult me , nor when you tell that i insult him , and when you says he merely corrected me, well it's absolutely not the vision that i had of his answers :jehon:
But thanks a lot for beeing honest with me :smilejap:

 

88Selude:

once again, you are "playing with words" :lol::lol::lol:

The picture of the arm that i've posted before shows how i've modified it to avoid a potential issue , if you looks carefully, you'll see where it was cutted and welded by myself :lol:
But once again you know better than me what i have done, it's so funny :lol::lol::lol:

Talking about hypocrisy??? Really??? :lol::lol::lol:
Well, show us these PMs, please!!!
How can you say at the same time that you don't understand them and that also you were able to answer to them :baa:

Show us how "great" you are!!!:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Are you pretending understanding French? Oh ,dans ce cas fait donc preuve de la grandeur de ton immense intelligence plutôt que de te montrer si pédant et arrogant...

I'm still sure you still don't understand what about i were talking about these pistons, pleaseshow me i'm wrong... ... with proof please, and stop be so funny:lol: , be serious if you can...

I do my best to be the most clearest possible, i know that it's not easy for you all to understand what i want to say:smilejap:

 

He isn't trying to be funny. He's defending himself and making you look like a fool.

Please, stop doing this in a thread, take it to PMs. You're embarrassing yourself.

 

Hi Sean, I've just followed your guide for the Mini cooper S rotors on the front after I screwed my MG ZS 180 rotors and had trouble finding the replacements. I've used the 5mm spacers and the caliper is definitely biased to the inside of the rotor. There's about 0.5mm of clearance to the outside edge of the rotor and a couple of mm on the inside. It was my understanding that the rotor should be as centred as possible inside the caliper. Is that correct?

edit here are some pics so you know what I'm on about:

 

It was my understanding that the rotor should be as centred as possible inside the caliper. Is that correct?

Yes that is correct, with the proviso that it is the carrier you need to be centred in, not necessarily the caliper.
The more off-centre it is the more likely the potential for problems.
Discs/rotors have run-out. The rotors and calipers flex.
Any of this movement could cause rubbing etc if you're already close to the carrier.

 

Yes you need space that other side and center the rotor as much as possible.

 

What I'm asking is why does the guide call for 5mm worth of washers/spacers. My pics are with the 5mm worth. It looks like it needs more like 6mm.

 

It was the size that ended up using that worked for me. As long as it clears and is as centered as possible your good, because that is the bracket thats being spaced the disc stays static and so does the bracket, its the pads that move as they clamp and wear over time.

 

Having a look at your pics again though it is nearly exactly the same as mine, big gap between the inner inside of the rotor and the caliper as well.

 

OK if its like yours you are good. Because it does not move.