[eholm522]

I prefer the euro r. mostly because my car is not drag raced but street driven. so i enjoy the midrange power.

 

[marmot]

http://www.roskoracing.com/Euro_R_Manifolds.html

so is the block off package necessary to do the conversion? if not, what are the advantages of these for racing?

 

[H22A_lude]

Block off plate for what? The EGR? All H22 EGR valves are the same, so you can bolt it right on the Euro R manifold. You would have to buy the EGR cover plate ether wise you'd have some nasty issues.

 

[ludedude88]

so would adding this to a stock h22 with 2.5" exhaust, header, and tuning be worth having or do other mods need to be added to increase power enought to matter?

 

[H22A_lude]

so would adding this to a stock h22 with 2.5" exhaust, header, and tuning be worth having or do other mods need to be added to increase power enought to matter?

Out of all of the bolt on's I have, my Euro R and 68mm throttle body made the biggest difference on my butt dyno. I didn't feel a difference with any of my other bolt on's. Now with S300, a motoxxman basemap and some A/F tuning done by me, the torque curve feels even better. It's deffinently much faster after the S300. My modds are...

H22A
CAI with BPI velocity stack and K&N filter
Professional Products 68mm TB
Euro R manifold(rosko'd)
JDM RS*R header
60mm tesp pipe and exhaust

I planned on getting an actual tune done with this set up but now I'm wanting some cams.

 

[mechanic69741]

quick question

ok, so i have a 4th gen 95 prelude, now i found a manifold from DC Sports but its for a H22A engine, i have a F22 2.2L are these heads even goin to fit ?,, and wat options do i have as for as getting more power out of this engine? thanks

 

[Stancil1216]

what all did you need for the euro r manifold? people say you got to modify some things? or is it just a straight bolt on.

 

[prelude2nr]

Now that you guys have completely nerded up this post..

Going off of what I gathered:

Euro mani.. better midrange

Skunk 2.. better top end

But just depends on what your car is built for, also.

Which one is cheaper, and how hard is the swap, between the two?

i had the skunk2 im with a blox 70mm throttle body, cai, hondata intake manifold gasket, and a 2.5 catback exhaust, aem fuel pressure regulator and rail... i made right around 20 more whp and 12ish wtq... gains were constant 10 whp throughout the rpm range

this was all tuned on hondata s100 and a p28ecu... so to me if the euro r makes 8-10whp through midrange with top end not really helping... ill get another skunk2 im in my new prelude...

skunk2 is more expensive and better to me... but you have to have a lot more to get it to work right... euro r mani wont need everythign i had but i wanted more power then that... the skunk2 manifold with the cams and cam gears i wanted would have worked even better for me and the skunk2 mani

the main question to ask yourself... daily driven for fun? or weekend warrior autox and drag racing? put a lil money into the motor for a lil umph... or a lot of money for some great high end power?

 

[prelude2nr]

my original numbers with the new numbers... not bad at all

156 whp to 181whp
134 wtq to 152 wtq

 

[h22_crx]

im very happy with my euro r mani

 

[Kane666]

hey prelude2nr what other mods do you have and was that stock obd2 ecu? if so damn im getting one again.

 

[92sr4ws]

Euro R is well worth the money! Get one from Rosko and all you have to do is bolt it on...he will even port match your TB too if you send him it!

Search some dyno charts and you will see how much you pick up in the mid range, making it way more fun to daily drive.

Track numbers are great too, with a Euro R and 3 inch exhaust i droped 3 tenths in the quarter.

 

[yargnitram]

.

 

[yargnitram]

My types S has just been fitted with a Torneo/Euro R engine with type S inlet manifold and type S throttle body,Its has got a standard type S exhaust headers and factory standard types S air filter,It made 123kw at the wheels on the Dyno it had no tuning and was straight after installation (to get base line before any set up of engine)also the Dyno was down on the day by 8- 10kw so potentially 132kw,the temp was mid afternoon at 28c, Also on the Dyno where a Euro R and Torneo R ,these are their figures, Euro R 121 kw (factory standard car with 56k)and Torneo R was 132kw with the following mods,3.0 exhaust, Mugen type headers,after market throttle body, ignition mods. the guy had spent 3500 on modifications so a lot of money for very few gains .Also a side note these cars do not have a power steering pump(EPS) like my types S.When you think this engine factory standard is 162kw at the flywheel with no air con/power steering/etc on there Dyno). the power loss from front wheel drive is between 20-30% so these figures are a good honest indication of what to expect from these 220 bhp (164kw) red top engines,i would be keen to see what people are getting from standard h22a engines, only genuine Dyno results please.

 

[telram]

i had the skunk2 im with a blox 70mm throttle body, cai, hondata intake manifold gasket, and a 2.5 catback exhaust, aem fuel pressure regulator and rail... i made right around 20 more whp and 12ish wtq... gains were constant 10 whp throughout the rpm range
...

I'm not sure I understand, you made 20 whp more with the skunk2, than with stock intake? or are you saying you made 20 whp more than stock with all the mods you listed?

 

[gotjnco]

I love mine... im going to retune and get some dyno charts!

 

[Velocifero]

My types S has just been fitted with a Torneo/Euro R engine with type S inlet manifold and type S throttle body,Its has got a standard type S exhaust headers and factory standard types S air filter,It made 123kw at the wheels on the Dyno it had no tuning and was straight after installation (to get base line before any set up of engine)also the Dyno was down on the day by 8- 10kw so potentially 132kw,the temp was mid afternoon at 28c, Also on the Dyno where a Euro R and Torneo R ,these are their figures, Euro R 121 kw (factory standard car with 56k)and Torneo R was 132kw with the following mods,3.0 exhaust, Mugen type headers,after market throttle body, ignition mods. the guy had spent 3500 on modifications so a lot of money for very few gains .Also a side note these cars do not have a power steering pump(EPS) like my types S.When you think this engine factory standard is 162kw at the flywheel with no air con/power steering/etc on there Dyno). the power loss from front wheel drive is between 20-30% so these figures are a good honest indication of what to expect from these 220 bhp (164kw) red top engines,i would be keen to see what people are getting from standard h22a engines, only genuine Dyno results please.

Actually, it's closer to 15% drivetrain loss on a manual and 20-25% on an automatic. What makes you think drivetrain loss is worse in FWD? It's way better than a RWD or AWD ever could.

How were you guys able to adjust your idle? Or can't you and it idles like normal?

 

[Kane666]

as far as i can tell my idle was fine. ive got 68mm tb w/ 68mm mani. hooked it all up and turned the key and no problems. i was expecting to fiddle with it a little bit but didnt have to. there is a screw if you get the pp tb.

 

[Velocifero]

My types S has just been fitted with a Torneo/Euro R engine with type S inlet manifold and type S throttle body,Its has got a standard type S exhaust headers and factory standard types S air filter,It made 123kw at the wheels on the Dyno it had no tuning and was straight after installation (to get base line before any set up of engine)also the Dyno was down on the day by 8- 10kw so potentially 132kw,the temp was mid afternoon at 28c, Also on the Dyno where a Euro R and Torneo R ,these are their figures, Euro R 121 kw (factory standard car with 56k)and Torneo R was 132kw with the following mods,3.0 exhaust, Mugen type headers,after market throttle body, ignition mods. the guy had spent 3500 on modifications so a lot of money for very few gains .Also a side note these cars do not have a power steering pump(EPS) like my types S.When you think this engine factory standard is 162kw at the flywheel with no air con/power steering/etc on there Dyno). the power loss from front wheel drive is between 20-30% so these figures are a good honest indication of what to expect from these 220 bhp (164kw) red top engines,i would be keen to see what people are getting from standard h22a engines, only genuine Dyno results please.

as far as i can tell my idle was fine. ive got 68mm tb w/ 68mm mani. hooked it all up and turned the key and no problems. i was expecting to fiddle with it a little bit but didnt have to. there is a screw if you get the pp tb.

pp tb? I have the Euro R tb that has the screw you're not supposed to mess with, even though it might be able to adjust the idle.

 

[Kane666]

professional products acura type r throttle body.