so i've been telling people how to properly break in fresh engine builds or rebuilds for years. and occasionally i get people telling me they refuse to listen to me cuz they think its better done a different way, or they say they will simply attempt to do it a different way because they read it somewhere on the internet from an unknown source, such as places like honda-tech members, motorcycle website (motorcycle engines arent even remotely similar in design), private unreliable websites with zero reference to credibility, and many many other sources. so here it is directly from DARTON
i will be adding this to the FAQ sticky as soon as i submit the thread. i couldnt have worded it any better myself, so i am copying and pasting this directly from Darton.
im sick of people not breaking their engines in properly because they just dont know how to listen to the pros.
so here it is directly from Darton, i repeat, directly from DARTON on how to properly break-in a HONDA engine in specific:
well, here it is; some hardcore proof that i have been giving the proper advice all along:
this is taken directly from Darton's website, on how to properly break in a Honda engine:
page 14 in the honda manual found at this link:
http://www.darton-international.com/tech_man.htm
Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for your bearing clearance and intended use.
i will be adding this to the FAQ sticky as soon as i submit the thread. i couldnt have worded it any better myself, so i am copying and pasting this directly from Darton.
im sick of people not breaking their engines in properly because they just dont know how to listen to the pros.
so here it is directly from Darton, i repeat, directly from DARTON on how to properly break-in a HONDA engine in specific:
well, here it is; some hardcore proof that i have been giving the proper advice all along:
this is taken directly from Darton's website, on how to properly break in a Honda engine:
page 14 in the honda manual found at this link:
http://www.darton-international.com/tech_man.htm
Break-in, tuning
Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for your bearing clearance and intended use.
Prime the oil system before engine start with ignition off using the engine or dyno starter. We require break-in and tuning using an engine dyno or chassis [for darton sleeved engines, may be done on the street by a professional if the engine is not sleeved with darton sleeves, in a manner that loads the engine similar to what is described here about doing it on the dyno (comment by motox)]
dyno as follows:
· After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000-2500. Precaution should be exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
· After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and retorque heads. Check for leaks.
· Street engines will require multiple run ins with increasing rpm and load up to maximum output.
· After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and retorque heads. Check for leaks.
· Street engines will require multiple run ins with increasing rpm and load up to maximum output.
Use of a dyno allows one to apply a pre-set load to allow the piston rings, and other components to seat properly. It is also much easier to monitor temperatures and pressures than while driving. Most dynos are equipped with O² and EGT probes to aid in tuning. The timing and fuel curve needs to be tailored to your particular engine to ensure the engine stays out of
detonation, which will lead to engine failure. A racing engine is generally built with sufficient clearance to require no further break-in after dyno tuning and power runs. However, we recommend head bolt torques be re-checked cold after dyno testing as the head gaskets will take a set. Remember to replace oil and filter after the dyno session as bearing
coatings and metal particles will be trapped in the oil filter. Inspect the oil for foreign material and excessive bearing flakes.
coatings and metal particles will be trapped in the oil filter. Inspect the oil for foreign material and excessive bearing flakes.
A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows:
· full throttle high torque power useage should be limited and never be used until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes.
· from 0-500 miles (0-800km), do not exceed 4000 rpm.
· from 500-1000 (800-1600km), do not exceed 6000 rpm.
· over 1000 miles (1600km), no restrictions.
Also, do not run at the same speed for extended periods during break-in. Make certain the engine is operating at proper coolant temperature and oil pressure. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Make necessary changes if required (radiator, fan, tuning) to get the engine to run in the proper temperature range. We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles (8000km). Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon.
· from 0-500 miles (0-800km), do not exceed 4000 rpm.
· from 500-1000 (800-1600km), do not exceed 6000 rpm.
· over 1000 miles (1600km), no restrictions.
Also, do not run at the same speed for extended periods during break-in. Make certain the engine is operating at proper coolant temperature and oil pressure. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Make necessary changes if required (radiator, fan, tuning) to get the engine to run in the proper temperature range. We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles (8000km). Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon.
~Steve
