Ey bro, where can i get these Braided line? Damn it is a pain in the ass to put the clutch line/hydralic

 

i get mine at orne bros. it's a place near me, but just measure how much you need and go online theres many places you can order it from. i belive it's a D-4 but it might be a D-3 fitting.

 

good post poet

 

Poet you are a very valuable member to this forum. I actually still need to wire up my reverse lights from my 5speed swap. You are the man! :biggrin:

 

actually I used a clutch line from a 93 civic and it worked great, my mechanic had it lying around

poet do you mind if I link to this in my 5spd swap resource thread?

 

go for it. i've been meaning to put more up but i got the flue and don't feel like going into the garage.

 

When you figure that bracket thing out(for the clutch pedal) please take pics and detailed write-up. Cause I need to do it.

 

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thread updated.
also someone asked for the dimensions because there were going to make the bracket themselves. was that you androO?
if so i wish you wouldn't have deleted it. it makes threads really confusing to people you are reading them for answers. also if it was you or if it was someone else, theres the dimensions and i hope you can show how you made it and let me know so i can add it to the first page

 

I got mine. My swap should be done towards the end of the week. I think that the only thing different that I might try is putting the largest size washers possible on there for more support. I'm so stoked that I found one.

 

well ive had my 5 speed swap done for over a year now and im wondering if you did the clutch interlock wiring? or the wiring for the cruize control?

and yes the ECU conversion works 100%, i did it myself and passed cali smog about 9 months ago.

 

no i haven't done that yet, i want my cruse control but i also have remote start so i don't want the clutch interlock, i haven't looked into it but i need a way to be able to have both, if and when i do though i'll post it up. unless you beat me to it, in which case i hope you'll post up how too do it.

 

Where you able to install this bracket without removing the dash? I found a car I'm going to pull this bracket off, but I was going to remove the dash to get to it.

 

yes, you can remove and install it without removing the dash.

 

Im doing tha swap right now, and need some help on the ECU conversion. Can someone post up their ECU after the conversion? want to get a better look at the finish product before trying to do it. thanks again

 

im at the last step in my 5 speed swap, which is the wiring part.. i was reading what u had here, im confused what do u mean connect wire 3 and 1 together?? do i splice them and just run another wire across so they can be together?? and the reverse lights to i splice 3 and 9 and run it to the reverse switch??

after that do i connect the AT sensor back to normal, what about my VSS, i got one from my m2a4 tranny, do i need to reuse my old one? how do i wire that ?

help please 5 speed swappers, im :mad2::mad2:

 

yes physically connect the wire for pin 1 and 3 together; how ever you do that is up to you, and then run the wire for pin 3 to one side of the revers switch (it doesn't matter which side) and wire from pin 9 to the other side. now your car will be able to start and your reverse lights will work.

I don't know about the rest of your question.
as far as connecting your AT sensor back to normal, whats normal? What do you mean by that? normal was on the auto, thats why you had to slice those pins together and to the revers switch.

I don't know about the VSS.

 

For the vss, honda has the exact same part number listed for the electrical part of it, meaning the electrical part should connect directly like before. As for the part that actually goes into the transmission, they are different. You should try to find a non working VSS and simply replace the electrical of your auto on there. (assuming the other part is good)

EDIT: That was meant for a 5th gen tranny. Just use the one that came with it. Try matching part numbers and see if its the same.

 

on the cruise control issue, I couldnt figure it out. Everything seems plugged in but hasn't worked since the swap...might be pertinent to add that I put on the s2k wheel at same time. Funny how the srs light wont go off even after all the checks from writeups on the wirings. No shop even wants to touch it with the srs light on *sigh* hope the bulb dies out someday.

 

thanks poet and rompirate, i should be starting it today, last night i bled the clutch that went successful so hopefully i get my ecu today from the tuner shop here in houston..

BTW this is what i did prior to reading ur response

is that what u meant poet..

edit* please remember guys the two wires that u need to cut and connect together are red/white and grey; they are in the top row on the ends... to start it. for revese is (9 = white wire, add a wire to the 3 and 1 tie up and run each end to the manual reverse switch) hopes this helps, my car is running perfect thanks to poet and rompirate.

 

is that what u meant poet..

yes.

 

this is to answer a few questions for the auto to manual swap. i'm not trying to make this a full write up at all, just some helpful info, but i'd still like to keep this thread really clean and informative. so that's try to keep it that way. i just recently helped someone on here with a few things so i figured i'd post it here and try to get some of these thing in one place. for people who have all reedy done this feel free to post things/tricks you know. and i'll copy it to the first page. 1'st if your gonna be doing this get the helms manual. with just that you can do the entire swap. so in other words YOU NEED THE HELMS!!! clutch line + damner ect: you don't need all this stuff just run a SS braided line from the master to the slave cylinder. (i got mine at a place near me but you should be able to order it from many places online. just measure out the length you need and i believe it's a 4-an fitting but it may be a 3-an, so check first. and measure twice before you order.) also alpinefr3ak has shown that you can use a clutch line from a 93 civic. getting the car to start + wiring your reverse lights: find the AT gear position switch connector that used to go to your AT transmission. its a ten terminal connector you need to connect #3 & #1 together so that the car will start and you need to connect #3 & #9 to the reverse switch on the manual trans so that your reverse lights work. (polarity doesn't matter, and i suggest getting bullet connectors from your local hardware store so you don't need to cut them for a clutch change.)

Auto to manual ECU conversion (in case you don't want to replace your ecu. i did not wright this but have heard it works.) The official auto to manual ECU conversion thread - Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion Reinforcing the clutch pedal/bracket: *reinforcing the clutch pedal will be up soon as possible. here is the bracket that you need to cut off from a manual lude or make yourself. here's picks of it installed. i got it from prelude1987 and when he removed it, to remove it, he drilled out the spot welds(2) i used those, plus i drilled two more holes and used a total of 4 fat, but short, sheet metal screws. bolts or rivets would be nice but unless you feel like removing your whole dash it won't happen, that would be the only way to get to the other side. that's why i just used screws. having it welded on would also be a nice way to go, but i doubt any welder would be willing to try to work under there and they would probably melt some important wires if they tried. heres the picks:

disregard the extra hole you see (installed it a little off) and the slit. you wont have those. the phillips screws are the ones were the spot welds were. first i widened the holes of where the spot welds were and then i drilled into the under side of the dash two corresponding holes, the holes in the dash i drilled just smaller then the screws i was using. that way with just those two screws installed i could move it slightly to get it just right. once it was in the right spot i tightened those down, then screwed in two more (the flat heads.) well there it is guys, thats the bracket and soon hopefully i will have up pics of the reenforcement to the firewall, although this bracket is all you really need. because of the way it's setup using leverage, this little bracket probably takes 98% of the force applied as were the reenforcement takes the other 2%, actually the only reason i did reinforce my firewall is because originally the shop that did my swap installed the clutch pedal wrong. and so theres alot of extra holes in the firewall weakening it alot. it wouldn't break, but I'm pretty anal about having flex in the pedal. Also guys some of you are going to have to make that bracket yourselves, so i really hope when one of you does they let me know. take pic/write how it was done and post it here or pm me. Then i'll post/move it to the first page.

Which harness should be used the auto or manual if you you are using the manual ecu

 

Ludeing wich harness did you used?