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98__SH's...you guessed it! 98 SH build!!!

15K views 54 replies 14 participants last post by  98__SH  
#1 · (Edited)
Well...I've delayed and procrastinated making a build thread for long enough. Now that I've owned the car just a few weeks shy of 2 years I'm finally doing it.

Hopefully now that I've made one I'll stay as motivated as I am right now to get my Lude to a level that I'm really happy with it.

This car is daily driven, but I'm looking to bring out the best in it.

Just throwing some pics up to get started, but I'll be putting a lot more images/story here on the first post. This first post will be regularly edited so that the mods list and car's appearance are kept current and up to date.

Engine
Euro-R Intake Manifold w/68 mm Skunk2 throttle body
Rosko Fuel Rail
Vibrant Header
3 inch piping from SMSP
3 inch magnaflow cat
3 inch Apex'i N1
JDM Type S Intake with K&N Filter
Password JDM CF Sparkplug cover
NGK Iridium Plugs and Wires
Basic wire tuck
Deleted Cruise Control, Windshield Fluid Reservoir

Suspension and Handling
Tein Basic Coilovers
Spoon Front Strut Bar
Spoon Rear Strut Bar
Powerslot.com front rotors
Hawk Performance street pads all around

Exterior
HID Headlights
JDM Fogligts
JDM Type S Front Lip
OEM Rear Lip and Side Skirts
35% tint all around
Sidemarkers removed

Interior/I.C.E.
Momo Tuner 350mm steering wheel
Momo GTR2 shift knob
Momo Performance shift boot
Leather Heated CDM seats
Blue Interior LED swap
Carbon Fiber trim kit
Rear seats/seatbelts deleted, removed spare tire and jack
USB chord wired through center console
Kenwood Double DIN GPS deck
Compustar Alarm

Near Future Plans
Bigger injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
Seibon CF Hood
Battery relocation
Short shifter
New rims and tires
Cut and polish paint



How it looked when I got it...

Nice on the outside



Nothing but a Type S intake and a filthy bay.



Tried an Integra Type R replica wing from Restyling Ideas...I was happy with it at first, but after a while the paint started too fleck, and my opinion of it changed. I took it off the other day and plugged the holes, hoping the wingless look would grow on me.



BIG WING FRENZY!



Some relatively new pics...

Last wash before I tick the wing off the other day



Cleanest shot of the bay I have.



Got this installed the other day...right now it's sitting with a random hose and fitting since the 68mm throttle body is bigger than the Type S intake's piping. Hmm...







Interior...sorry, very sunny





Cruisin' with the Vancouver Prelude Club just this Saturday

 
#8 ·
#10 ·
Haha what were they saying? How much they hate it after last week and the Euro-R fiasco? :tounge:

And that's kinda the point. Wouldn't make a build thread if I was only doing a couple things to it lol.
 
#12 ·
It was easy to install as a component, just the fuel rail I use just isn't compatible with EGR (working to fix that) and the throttle body is bigger than the intake piping. A lot of little hiccups like that along the way.

There's also the language barrier.

Worth it though. Definitely recommend Rosko for any Euro-R needs...can't wait to tune the setup.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I saw your thread in the 5th gen section and I'll just start off by saying that I definitely DON'T have 230hp at the wheels haha.

I wish...remember, my car is an SH.

I don't know how much power it makes. Haven't gotten my E-Manage yet, and haven't been to the dyno.

I'm not gonna bench race and guess the numbers, but since I haven't gotten the piggyback and gotten the car tuned, it's probably not that much higher than stock. Just "feels" better and healthier when you accelerate, sounds better, better throttle response, etc. Tuning is what will bring it all out.

When tuned, since I'm on stock cams and H22A4 block (which has its limitations, I'd love a Type S H22A in the future) but have the full list of bolt ons you can see in my mod list, I should be hovering a little bit below 200 whp. But again, this is just theorizing. It might end up just being in the 185-190 whp range at this point.

That's with a 3 inch exhaust and 68 mm TB and port matched Euro-R. The measurements on these components is widely believed to be the most optimal for power.

To get into the range you're talking about, just shy of the theoretical maximum power threshold of the ATTS system, I'd need a refreshed engine (or a Type S block...that'd be better) some aggressive cams, and a $1200+ custom header.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Alright...been researching things and am a little brain-fried. Don't wanna go creating a thread in the 5th gen section so...

For gauges, all that's necessary with these bolt ons is an Air/Fuel gauge, or wideband, correct?

An oil pressure gauge wouldn't be needed, would it?
 
#19 ·
air/fuel gauge is a wideband


You don't really "need" one, but it helps to monitor. I was recommended a PLX M300, and so far love it.


I have an oil pressure gauge just to keep an eye on my engine due to my past issues with the pressure switch failing. But no, you don't need one just for bolt-ons (unless you want it for security)



There aren't really any gauges at all that you "need" for a mild tune with bolt ons. Just whatever you want to monitor.
 
#21 ·
Haha I guess I'll give some updates...

1. I re-installed EVAP (don't ask...ripped it out last year thinking it'd be all good) and am gonna see if I can run it without actually hooking the line to the gas tank back up and not getting CEL's.

2. Seeing about getting EGR fitted onto the Euro-R IM while using a Rosko fuel rail (it's a bit long and runs over the EGR port).

3. Placed a $2500 order...pic's will be up when everything is here...and my chequing account is hurtin'. Looking at finding a good job for the rest of the year til I go back to school.

4. Researching injectors, and deciding if I'm gonna work on the fitment of my Type S intake to the 68 mm throttle body, or get an AEM V2.
 
#22 · (Edited)
UPDATE! Some quality iPhone pics of the stuff I just got in...








Got the fitting in from Rosko and am still working at the fitment of the EGR. :considered:





And now there's thee fitment of this nifty little unit that I have to sort out. :accepted:

Update: I'm pretty sure I also didn't get a disc with my E-Manage...gonna look through everything.

 
#23 ·
Well I got about a 3/4 inch riser plate made for the EGR, hooked it all up and I THINK I am CEL free. Just have the EVAP system wired up, not actually hooked up to the gas tank nor the intake manifold, but all the sensors are in place.



Struggled with that shit for so long...even had a nightmare that my CEL came back on :sleep:................... :afraid:



Fitment of the CF trunk is a bit better now that I drilled out the holes on the hinges and wiggled it around. Went to a bunch of shops ranging from body, glass, to locksmiths, looking to get the keyhole cut for a bit of cash and nobody would do it, so everyone knows what that means...:accepted:


Other than that, looking for ideas and ways to cleanly mount the wideband gauge and not have an A-Pillar arm or dash pod.
 
#24 ·
Little update...

Drilled the keyhole in the ViS CF Trunk, and had a hell of a time getting the lock cylinder assembly in.

Pics would show what I mean better but I had to shave the lock cylinder base down to almost nothing to get it fitting where it's supposed to be mounted, and then had to dremel out the pathway for the trunk popper arm that goes from the key lock to the main latch.

And after all that, the lock cylinder is mounted quite a distance from the keyhole, and the ring and lock assembly don't sit flush...gonna have to get back into it to get it fitting better. Overall not impressed...I knew before hand that CF trunk/hood fitment can be imperfect, but this is too much.



Other than that, pretty sure my EGR CEL is gone. I got a CEL for Running Rich (P0172), Fuel Trim Bank 1 (P1070) and an EVAP leak, probably since mine is just sitting in place and "dummied", not actually hooked up to the gas tank line, or to the IM/Throttle body.

Gonna be troubleshooting that now before I get the car tuned, so if anyone's got experience with those codes or knows how to trick OBD2 into thinking EVAP is perfectly in place and hooked up, chime in :)
 
#27 ·
I've actually been screwing around with the trunk quite a bit...more specifically the key/lock assembly.

My particular trunk is molded a bit funny, and in doing this I'll most likely become the fitment/dremel king. So when it comes time to find a cool, subtle place for the wideband, I think the cigarette lighter area or something like that is do-able.

It sucks but I've honestly been held down with stupid little things on the car instead of these things that really matter...

Sorry i've not gotten those pics over to you yet. I'll be sure to do it tomorrow after work.




Emanage no longer comes with a disk - you need to download it from Greddy's site.
Got them...thanks!

Just looking at the pics though, I can say right away that my trunk is molded differently. The opening for the lock assembly is more of an oblong circle shape, not more of a rectangle like yours, and is much smaller, which is why I've opted to shave the old lock assembly down to nothing instead of mod'ing that part of the trunk extensively.

Had to make a more significant notch for the arm to travel, also. The molded wall, or rather where the lock assembly actually bolts onto is also VERY thick, making for an added distance between the lock housing and the keyhole itself. I measured it and remember that it's like 5 millimeters more than stock...a lot of distance to make up for but we'll see how it goes...

And yeah I found that out about the E-Manage...wish I was working on THAT :smile:
 
#28 ·
End of August update...

I've got the keyhole and trunk situation kinda sorted out...had to do a lot of dremeling and just plain hacking up that area of the trunk to get the mechanism to fit. I'll upload pics of what I went through. Gonna need to revisit it now that the rainy season is here as there's a slight leak from the keyhole itself. It's going to have to sit more flush, or be sealed up.

Also need to do the gas strut shock mod to replace the trunk springs, which I've got removed.

Waiting for my buddy to be able to go down to his PO box in the states and get the Kaizenspeed tensioner he ordered for me last fall (yeah, last fall), also waiting for some motor mounts to come in, Greddy timing belt, water pump, OEM seals/gaskets as well as the other belts.

Do all that, get the wideband installed, then time to tune!
 
#29 · (Edited)
Got the Innovative mounts in! Big shout out to mykep83 for sorting me out! He's the man!

Too bad UPS killed me with border duty :(



And btw...still have to fine tune it since it's got a leak, but this is what I went through for the fitment of a keyhole in the ViS trunk so far...

Shaved the resin off down to the skeleton (this area was molded way off...Wing8806's trunk has quite a bit more space) notched that area for the popper arm, and shaved the lock cylinder base down to nothing to fit it in. In the future I'll probably want to give this little area a spray with black paint or something to hide all the tooling marks.







It's being held on by a bolt with two washers, and I'm running o-rings in the lock ring.



All that for this...and it doesn't sit in there perfectly flush, has to be tightened from time to time, and leaks :mad2:.

Trunk itself isn't totally lined up right but I've been too fed up to revisit it. Gas struts will be going in soon so that's when I'll have to do it.

 
#33 ·
Thank you thank you!

Did you lower the rubber grommets on the trunk?




Also, the actual bar the latch catches onto - you may need to either lower or modify that if it doesn't close enough... I think I did but haven't had it off in 3 years - i'll check today.
Rubber grommets as in the peg-like bits in the corners of the trunk that cushion the bumper in the closed position? I think I have them screwed all the way in.

I haven't touched the latch or that hook/bar...my trunk is probably on a bit crooked cuz of how awkward it was putting it on both times without trunk tensioners. When I've got the first mock up of trunk shocks functioning, I'll try to get it all flush.

Liking the build.. :D
Thanks man!
 
#31 ·
Did you lower the rubber grommets on the trunk?




Also, the actual bar the latch catches onto - you may need to either lower or modify that if it doesn't close enough... I think I did but haven't had it off in 3 years - i'll check today.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Got the fitment of the trunk much much better. Don't think there's anything to be done about the gap near the right tail light...the trunk probably isn't molded totally right :mad2:

Sorry...it's dusty lol





Hopefully done screwing with the trunk for a while and can focus on better things, even though the keyhole might still have a small leak. Most important thing is that I got my trunk shocks working. It's not perfect but I'm gonna leave it for now (pics of that soon).

And here's where I'm at with the wideband in the cigarette lighter, using my old radio trim piece.

I'm going to go back into it soon and cut my carbon fiber radio trim, and work on either tilting or lifting the wideband a little bit higher so it fills that space more nicely.