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Tachometer Isn't Working

15K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Hondaprelube91  
#1 ·
So I'm trying to start my car up for the first time following a new engine install. I fixed a few issues related to the install, but I realized I have no tachometer. I need this obviously to continue with the break in, and have not left the car running for too long as to not damage anything (I leave it on long enough to see if whatever I did fixed the tachometer).

The gauge cluster lights up, but no movement on the tach. How does the tach work exactly? Is it an electrical connection, or is it from the spedometer cable that goes to the transmission? The cable that connects to the transmission seems pretty loose to me, and I can pull it out of the sensor very easily. How does this connect to the tranny sensor?
 
#2 ·
OK, so the speed sensor is not turning at the transmission, so the speedometer is likely not working. Is the tach associated with the speed sensor as well, or is that a different system?

How do I fix that speedo? Should I just take it out? It looked fine when I installed it.
 
#3 ·
if I am thinking correctly, someone correct me if I'm wrong, the speedometer and tachometer are two completely different systems. the speedometer is ran off of that speed sensor in the transmission, and the tach is ran off of either the Crank Position Sensor or Camshaft Position Sensor, I forget where these are located at. If I remember correctly the Crank Position is located in the distributor, that is if we have one (i don't think we do tho,) and the Cam Position in that housing next to the distributor towards the back of the bulkhead or in the distributor itself. i can't remember which it has, but it has to have one or the other in order to maintain firing order. and all that.
 
#4 ·
That makes sense to me; however I can't find anything in the literature that accurately describes the circuit, gauge and how it works. I checked all my electrical connections under the hood. I even took the cylinder sensor and distributor off to see if it was installed correctly. It looks fine, and the timing doesn't look like it is too far off (that is without formally checking the timing with a light).

Are there any connections under the dash, besides what is on the back of the gauge cluster? I haven't touched that, but I did remove the dash. If any, what connections should I check?
 
#5 ·
I don't know what the connections are under the dash seeing as I am not familiar with them ... cause that's the one thing I have yet to touch. But it could be an under dash connection.

On another note, sorry if I sound douchbagish, but just because the sensors look good on the outside doesn't mean that there's something wrong on the inside. Or there's corrosion inside the wires. Have to think that the wires are 20+ years old.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
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#9 · (Edited)
OK, your tach is operated by a signal coming from the negative side of your coil. There are two blue wires going to your coil. One of them is paired with the black/yellow wire. The black/yellow is your coil positive side. The blue wire paired with it goes to your ignitor. The other blue wire (by itself) goes to your tach. Check into that.
 
#10 ·
Not to thread jack, but I've had no tach since I got the car 4 years ago and even started a thread on it that never found an answer. Just another question to add, if something was wrong with one of those wires coming from the coil would anything else on the car be running poorly because of it? Or are those wires something specific to the tachometer?
 
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#11 ·
A short in the coil wire that is by itself (blue) would disable the tach. A short in either of the other two coil wires (on shared connector) would disable the coil itself. The huge wire going to your dizzy is obviously not being discussed here, just the 3 smaller coil wires. I hope that made sense to you.
 
#13 ·
Where should I check the resistance to? The back of the gauge cluster?

Just a little more information. The car sounds like a lawn mower engine. I haven't set the timing yet, and I don't let it run very long before turning it off. Is the tach connected to the cylinder sensor at all or is it just run off the ignition coil?

Also, I am getting a code 6, which is "Coolant Temp". I take it this code doesn't mean the car is overheating, but rather the coolant temp sensor is down or the temp gauge isn't working. If that's the case, is there a connection on the gauge or dash area that controls both?
 
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#14 · (Edited)
I've never been into the cluster area, but yes, you would need to check resistance from the coil to where that wire connects to the tach. The tach would also need to have a 12v power supply. I'm not sure how this supply is done on our Ludes.


As for your code 6, I had a code six when I had air in my coolant lines. I had been "burping" my coolant system of air, and could not get rid of that code. Then, after driving to my parent's (45 minute drive) and back, the code went away, which tells me the air got burped out via the radiator overflow tank.