... I guess I need to get to a junkjard & find a damn MAP sensor. 90-91s are hard to find in the jy.

no shit dude.. I spent the past two days at 3 different yards and all they had were 2 88's and one 89. I found a first gen and 3 or 4 second gens too. Lots of accords, though..

 

how were you able to tell the difference between an 88 and 89? just curious.

 

I have good spark. runs great if i keep revs over 2500. but if i load the pedal at anything slower, it sputters its way up the dial to 3000, then takes off like a rocket (or at least like it should)

I did reset, but wasn't sure how long, so maybe 5 mins. but i probably touched the pedal when i started it...not sure. And i pulled both CLOCK & ECU fuses. Idles fine, but bogs for 1st second when revving in neutral from idle.

 

I have good spark. runs great if i keep revs over 2500. but if i load the pedal at anything slower, it sputters its way up the dial to 3000, then takes off like a rocket (or at least like it should)

I did reset, but wasn't sure how long, so maybe 5 mins. but i probably touched the pedal when i started it...not sure. And i pulled both CLOCK & ECU fuses. Idles fine, but bogs for 1st second when revving in neutral from idle.

My bad for bring BACK an old ass thread, but there's some of us that still suffer from a Kbull's lude's symtpoms. Wondering if anyone could chime in on similarities, other things to check, fixes, etc.
Most of us have already tried the fuel pressure, spark, sensors.... After resetting the ECU, the car drives fine for a day, but then begins running like crap up until ~3500rpm, where it takes off LIKE A DIFFERENT (better running!) CAR.

 

how were you able to tell the difference between an 88 and 89? just curious.

it was written in big letters on the back window... "1989"

i dont know if there are any tell-tale signs from one year to the next for 88-89 or 90-91 for that matter. but the yards had them marked, so I just trusted what was written.

 

So is there any way to trick the ECU into thinking the EGR vavle opened?

 

So is there any way to trick the ECU into thinking the EGR vavle opened?

Actually no there isn't anyway to do this. But you can trick the ECU into thinking that exhaust gases were passed into the motor. If you re-read Lizardboys previous post he tells you how to do this. You said you tried "plugging it in" and it didn't help. Does that mean you also hooked up vacuum hose to it to EGR ???? Do you have vacuum going from top of throttle body to the constant vacuum control valve in emissions box???...Have you studied the Online Repair Manual section on EGR??? All the info you need to fix your problem is there and in these posts.....3gdude

 

Sorry to bring the thread up from the dead, but I removed the EGR system on my car becuase I am going turbo. From what I have read here, all I have to do is plug my EGR valve in and stash it somewhere??? What do I do with the vaccuum line that runs to the valve?

 

cap it off inside the vacuum control box and get it the hell out of the engine bay! no need for it anymore.

leaving it hanging isn't a problem, either. mine was disconnected for months and i didn't even know. didn't even throw a CEL.

 

Hell, i threw a code 12 just because my throttle body gasket had a rip in it. It leaked air out and my car lost a lot of air , but then my amazingly good mechanics skills came into play. I used some of this sticky black tape we had around but hey its ghetto rigging right ? besides i ordered my gasket from advanced auto about a week ago, and been too lazy to pick it up. Theres some weird things that can cause a code to be thrown :???:

 

Old thread indeed, but relates to current issues with my car as well. I've been throwing a code 1&2 and 12 for a while now and JUST realized I have a vacuum leak at the IM to the head... just like the above poster's comment on "having a rip in his TB gasket." We'll see if that's my code-throwin' culprit this Wednesday when I replace all the IM gaskets.

 

This is an awesome thread about EGR issues. I dont think this is stickied. Somebody put this in the 3g Faq. As for your problem Luderunner11 it sounds to me like a timing problem and possibly TPS issue. Are you throwing any codes?

 

No CELs, starts up fine. I swear I'm getting ready to throw it on recycler.com.

 

Anyone fix there problem yet Someone wrote this "I have a vacuum leak at the IM to the head... " What is the IM????
I have a 88 Honda Civic throwing a code 12 swapped ECU with same results.... I am going nuts because my car DOES NOT HAVE AN EGR VALVE it never did.

 

IM = Intake Manifold

 

so im still kinda confused about this. i currently get code 12 everytime i start my car. now the egr valve on the IM is plugged in with NO vacuum of any sort. so knowing that the black box of doom is also gone, i ripped the map sensor out of it relocated it.

so to get my stupid code 12 to go away i need to install the whole black box again just to install the constant vacuum piece that operates the egr valve? or can i just hook IM vacuum to the egr valve?

if i do have to install the black box im just gunna hook the cel light to a toggle switch. turn it on when the emissions guy looks then turn it off again when he doesnt look.

 

I have a H23 I clean the Egr valve I check the valve.. and the no sticking .. there is goo vaccum going to in and the valve hold cuz I push the lifter in and the clogged the vacuum hole and the left stay up.. how much vacuum show vw at the EGR valve

 

I have a H23 I clean the Egr valve I check the valve.. and the no sticking .. there is goo vaccum going to in and the valve hold cuz I push the lifter in and the clogged the vacuum hole and the left stay up.. how much vacuum show vw at the EGR valve

Ideal = 200mm Hg (8" Hg)
Acceptable limit = 150 mm Hg to 250 mm Hg

Page from 3G manual
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/PreludeManual/62sf100/6-209.pdf


For H23 engine, you may be better using a 4G manual. Section 11 = Fuel and Emmissions. Page 11-135 to 11-140 = EGR system.
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/Prelude92/index.html

 

My EGR system was removed since my car hit the 25 year mark and didn't require emissions testing anymore.I left the EGR valve in place and vacuum line attached. The on-board computer doesn't care is the EGR is actually doing it's job. It only cares that the valve is opening and closing.

 

Damn...The whole point of the above post is that a faulty EGR system will Not effect performance. The purpose of the EGR system is to reduce combustion temperature in order to REDUCE nitrogens of oxide creation which is a visible smog contributor. Your engine is happy to run with higher combustion temperatures. You don't really think racing engines employ an EGR system do you ? Like I indicate, my EGR system has been non functioning for years and never, never, have I gotten a check engine code.