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Filled Motor mounts

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5.5K views 28 replies 14 participants last post by  David Mansfield  
#1 ·
MAN THESE ARE SWEEEEET!!! I took an old used (and yes broken to) set of B21 motor mounts and filled them with 3M Windshield adhesive. Its a $13 (from advance) tube of caulk. All you have to do is fill the mount push the adhesive into the small areas and make sure to get all the air bubbles out, then smooth out the top surface and let it dry. 1 tube will do all 4 mounts.

My good friend Brad and I got them all put in the car in about 2.5 hours. They make the car so much easier to drive with the 7.5 lb fly... I was super suprized that it feels different shifting, but it feels way different. Shifts are extremly smooth it almost feels like an automatic!

It also handles differently/better, its much crisper and tight going through the corners.

Yes I do have a bit more vibration. Actualy with all 4 filled mounts installed it was way to much vibration even after raising the idle a bit. I set the idle at about 900 so that the vibration wasnt to bad at idle. But with all 4 filled mounts installed my hands were almost numb when I got to work after my 1 hour drive. :) So last night i put back in the Drivers side mount and now its hardly any different feeling than sock. Yes I do have more vibration at idle but once you get moving it feels very very close to stock.

I recomend anyone with lightend flys or performance mods add this to their Lude. It makes a HUGE difference. I will have a spare set (b21) for sale if anyone is interested. PM me for details. :)
 
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#2 ·
ok...so you do what? pics please I wanna do this!
 
#3 ·
Its real easy man... Get your mount out of the car or get used ones like I did. Then get the 3M Windshield stuff from Advance. Its in a tube like caulk so you just squirt the mounts full with a caulk gun. Push the filler around and make sure all the air bubles are out. smooth the top and bottom surface of the mount (just for cosmetics) and let it dry. Then put them in your car. I dont have any pics right now but I am planning on making another set to sell so I will take some pics then.
 
#5 ·
I've got a tube of that stuff and a rear mount ready. Just gotta get a spare front mount. I'll leave the side mounts alone, since they don't really get much of the torque load anyway.
 
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#6 ·
I've had mine filled for nearly two years and love it. There is however without a doubt much more vibration. I used an even harder durometer polyurethane adhesive they sell at Lowes and Home Depot. It's "construction adhesive" and comes in a red, yellow, and black tube iirc. I don't recall the manufacturer but a tube was around $3.
Being that the mounts are usually dirty from the gagillion miles of engine bay time I prefer to clean them thoroughly prior to filling. I used Purple Power, rinsed well, then blew dry with compressed air. Let them air dry also to ensure no moisture is present when you fill them. Throwing them in the oven at a low temp for several minutes helps.
I too noticed smoother shifting.
 
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#7 ·
this is an old school racing tech. tip
my mom used to take poly urathane roofing caulk at like 5 bux a tube and when her mounts on her datsun rally cars would start shaking she would cut the steel tube out and make sure its placed in the center of the case
then cover the mounts with masking tape and fill the whole thing after taking out all the rubber or used up urathane volia home made solid mounts
 
#8 ·
You can try setting your idle around 1000-1200rpm, on my car with solid mounts that seemed to be the sweet spot that had the least vibration without being too high for an idle. ;-) Also when I installed my blaster 2 coil that seemed to help a bit too.

And yes I love solid mounts. :)
 
#12 ·
Leaving the drivers side mount stock makes a TON of difference in terms of vibrations. I want to set my idle higher but, I have been having problmes with my idle. I cant seem to set it higher than about 850 without problems. It idles PERFECT in my driveway but once warmed up under normal driving condditions (or if I tack to about 3k and hold it for a sec then let off) my idle fluctuates between 1500 and 1200. It will eventualy setlle out to normal 900 idle, but it sometimes takes 60-80 seconds. If I set it to about 800 i get no idle issues, at 850, its very minimal but there... Im kinda stumped.
 
#15 · (Edited)
WRONG! I just did this this. Now maybe the process is old and other people have done this before but it dose not get talked about much. It made a HUGE difference in many aspects of my car. I was not expecting such a change. Tunerboy, you obviously have not done this to your car or ever driven a car that has had this done, or you would be chiming in with these other guys.
 
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#19 ·
me too
all my mounts are trashed so Im taking the car to my school for about a week
im changing the timing belt anyways so I will pull all the mounts off bring them home and fill them
i just need to find a softer poly cause it will be a daily driver for my wife dont want her bitching that it vibrates too much
 
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#21 · (Edited)
well I know the drivers mount is gone I havent really looked at the others yet but i Have to remove it to change the T.B so i was thinking of replacing it but my wifes complaining about the 45 bux for a neew one so i want cheap and my mom mentioned just built some

so do a couple at a time you think it would be alright??
the window stuff is way softer than the roofing sealant/adheasive she used to use
 
#22 ·
hmmm so the roofing stuff is harder... Maybe I'll use that for the rear one for maximum stability, and then the 3m stuff on the front for better vibration absorbtion.
 
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#23 ·
ill try and fill the drivers mount and leave the tranny mount solid because my drivers side is toast and they apprently dont sell them anywhere (nor the tranny mount) I can however get the rear mount from autozone and the front from shucks. thats all ive been able to find for mounts for our car. so this is not just a performance mod but because a mod of necessity.
 
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#24 ·
napa has tranny mounts everywhere I found though like autozone or napa or checker (shucks/kragen) they have to order them
and ya the roofing stuff drys a lil harder than the windshield stuff
but then again harder also means more brittle too
my mom said anything will work if it is close to pure polyurathane
 
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#25 ·
shucks (checker, shucks, kragen) told me they couldnt get anything but the front motor mount and i had to have them order that 3 times tillt ehy finnaly got the right one. the last time they had to order it from another state I couldnt believe how hard they were to find. think fillin the driver side mount and leavin the tranny mount stock will give the same effect as david got?
 
#27 ·
I suggest getting a set of used mounts from someone on this forum. Those that have done a H22 swap or that have parts cars are very willing to let them go. I paid $45 for a whole set of used mounts shipped to my door from a member on here. If you have a 2nd set of used mounts, you can easily fill them while your still driving your car. Then wait a couple days for them to dry and you can put them all in your car in under 3 hours. Good luck!
 
#28 ·
I did this to my front and the drivers side since they were broken. I haven't noticed a difference though. I think my rear mount is about shot, I will report back once I have done that one. The stuff I used smelled like brownies and took a day to dry completely :)
 
#29 ·
hey girl. Yea, the front and rear mounts will make the most difference in terms of movement, but I noticed the drivers side mount gave the most difference in terms of vibrations. It was way to much vibration for me, now maybe funder different circumstances it would have been good. ;).. But with out the abilitity to make it stop it drove me nuts! :) I had to take it back out and put the stock one back in. I have been very happy with the setup since!
 
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