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You're making new mounts? In a weird way I don't mind these so much now, because it just means the motor is as far back and high up as it will go without cross member cutting.
Yes I am.

I already have the brackets made, so I can have them redone. I will work on the brackets which are the main reason the motor will sit oddly.

I was told the person who welded the last batch of brackets messed up and that was why AZ had issues.
 

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Nice work man, I love the look of the motor install, especially the intake. You always see 3rd gen's with H22 swaps with these little intakes resting just above the tranny. I've never been a fan of them, glad you went all the way and custom made one that works and looks awesome. Rep for you!
 

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Memento Mori
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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
As to the bungs: Stock O2, my wideband, and extra bung for tuners wideband. (I figure they would want to use their own)



No pictures today because it was mostly wiring. Started the car and drove up and down the block real quick, problems encountered:

Rywire harness not 100%:

The main relay uses ground 101, the one at the t-stat housing. The rywire harness has this location, but the relay doesn't ground to it anymore. So with no ground, the main relay doesn't work, no fuel pump and no power to the ECU. I did a quick test jumper today and tomorrow I will need to add a permanent new ground for the relay.

Need to run 1 wire from the alt. connector to near the fuse box, this is the charging warning light and rywire didn't supply it. (or even mention that it needed to be added.)



Other issues:

The left-to-right movement shifter cable is bad so I need to swap in my spare. This actually isn't the horror you would imagine because there is a lot more room to work at the lower firewall with the H compared to the B.

And the big one, cylinder #1 not getting any fuel! Need to run through the troubleshoot procedure for this.
 

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Question? The plug in that is sitting on the pass side motor mount, I know that plug connects to the the B20a5 engine harness and some of the wires run to the fuse box, how does Rywire wire that in or is it even needed, I know some of the wires in that plug on the b20 engine harness runs to the shock tower/fender harness also.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The intake is covering it but rywire actually has a second smaller harness that plugs into that then runs into the cabin to plug into the main harness, so it is still used.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
One of the injectors was bad so I stuck my new ones in, runs fine now. Also ran the new alt. charge warning light wire, so that is working.

I replaced the "bad" shifter cable but the new one is doing the same thing. If I move the shifter to the left in the 1-2 range and let go it slowly moves back to center. If I move it to the right for 5-R it snaps back to center like it should. I disconnected the cable from the trans and the trans arm seems to move fine either direction, maybe this is a common problem? This is going to cause me to miss a shift if I leave it like it is.

There is a strong pulsation in the steering wheel if I try and go over 20, the driver side axle has some play on the inner joint where it meets the half-shaft. It's fully seated and is brand new from raxles, this is only a guess at this point because this could be normal for H22's.

When I took it for a test drive yesterday I ALREADY dented the downpipe turning around in a drive way. Also the header leaks at the slip fit joints I had to cut down, I was expecting this though and I think some exhaust sealant should fix it.
 

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One of the injectors was bad so I stuck my new ones in, runs fine now. Also ran the new alt. charge warning light wire, so that is working.

I replaced the "bad" shifter cable but the new one is doing the same thing. If I move the shifter to the left in the 1-2 range and let go it slowly moves back to center. If I move it to the right for 5-R it snaps back to center like it should. I disconnected the cable from the trans and the trans arm seems to move fine either direction, maybe this is a common problem? This is going to cause me to miss a shift if I leave it like it is.

There is a strong pulsation in the steering wheel if I try and go over 20, the driver side axle has some play on the inner joint where it meets the half-shaft. It's fully seated and is brand new from raxles, this is only a guess at this point because this could be normal for H22's.

When I took it for a test drive yesterday I ALREADY dented the downpipe turning around in a drive way. Also the header leaks at the slip fit joints I had to cut down, I was expecting this though and I think some exhaust sealant should fix it.
Dave if there is play in the axle then call Marty and ask him about that, because I do not have that issue.

And as to the pulsing, I would think wheel bearing first, but that would be my first thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I'm going back out to examine and do another test drive soon. Sean here are instructions how to use the rywire harness since the one paper they send with the harness isn't correct and doesn't mention several things:






In addition to splicing those wires:

You need to ground the black wire coming out of the main relay, or you won't get fuel or power to the ECU:



Here you can see where I cut the hole for the harness, as well as the injector resistor and where the expansion harness plugs in:



This is where the other end of the expansion harness plugs into, you can see it's missing one pin. That is the white/green wire that runs from the alternator plug, the rywire harness is missing it so you will need to run it yourself.



If your looking for a cleaner way to tap into the coil wires, you can get to them from the connector block just above the ECU and below the blower:



Finally you need to run the large power wire from the alternator post to the underhood fusebox.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Ugh, so I did more testing.

First I checked the suspension for play and the wheels. Everything good, in fact the wheel bearings are brand new genuine Honda ones I put in when I did the extended studs.

Next I started the car while on the jacks and "drove" it, I took it to 100 in 5th and while it's far less pronounced there was still a vibration at certain speeds. If I put it in 4th and let it idle, I would get some vibration and was able to get out and look at the wheels and axles. I couldn't identify anything that is definitely causing it.

Decided to try another road test now that the snow is melted and it's just like before, starting around 20 it starts to shake. I was only brave enough to go to 35, where at that point the car was vibrating very violently. Undrivable.

So at this point my only lead is the play on the inner joint where it meets the half shaft. I'm not talking about play in the CV joint, I mean play between the axle splines and half shaft. I've taken it out and the splines on both are fine, it feels normal going on, and it is fully seated. But still there is that bit of wobble. I don't know what car this H is out of so maybe there is a different half-shaft I need.

I think I'm done working on the car for now... I don't think I'll be able to get a new half shaft anytime soon. (I leave for Germany on the 8th)
 

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I had the same issues w that header at the upper slip joints. Pita. And I've hit my collector on a ton of shit. I'll be fixing my whole exhaust setup now that the rear section decided to get torn off the car. Guess it's time to weld it all to one pc.

Sorry to hear you're having so many problems w the harness. Seems like a load of horse shit given the amount of keesh forked out for a rywire milspec harness. Aren't they like 600-800?

Apparently I'm behind on "the know"... But why are you going to Germany?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Have you fixed the leaks on your header? I'm thinking that exhaust sealant should do it. I think the pipes are too close together to weld around.

The only thing I really don't get with the rywire harness is why they left out the white/green wire from the alt to the secondary harness, they could have added it easily.

Of course it just hit me that my swap came with axles! So tomorrow I will be able to compare the inner cup on the raxles and the one that came with the swap, see if they are the same and the fit is the same. Might even be able to switch out the cups if they do turn out to be different.

I'm stationed in Germany right now, just home on leave 'til the 8th.


Ahh man good job on the details on the wiring, im definitely going to us this as a reference to my build:alberteinstein:
Are you putting an H into an 88-89? The wire colour and positions will be different I can look those up though if you are.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Ok here is for if your using the rywire harness with an OBD0 chassis:

 

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Ugh, so I did more testing.

First I checked the suspension for play and the wheels. Everything good, in fact the wheel bearings are brand new genuine Honda ones I put in when I did the extended studs.

Next I started the car while on the jacks and "drove" it, I took it to 100 in 5th and while it's far less pronounced there was still a vibration at certain speeds. If I put it in 4th and let it idle, I would get some vibration and was able to get out and look at the wheels and axles. I couldn't identify anything that is definitely causing it.

Decided to try another road test now that the snow is melted and it's just like before, starting around 20 it starts to shake. I was only brave enough to go to 35, where at that point the car was vibrating very violently. Undrivable.

So at this point my only lead is the play on the inner joint where it meets the half shaft. I'm not talking about play in the CV joint, I mean play between the axle splines and half shaft. I've taken it out and the splines on both are fine, it feels normal going on, and it is fully seated. But still there is that bit of wobble. I don't know what car this H is out of so maybe there is a different half-shaft I need.

I think I'm done working on the car for now... I don't think I'll be able to get a new half shaft anytime soon. (I leave for Germany on the 8th)
Hmmm.... There should not be any play between the half shaft and the axle at all.

The prelude halfshaft is a male spline, and the Accord is the female cup on the half shafts, that is the difference.

As fare as half shafts go, there is a difference between the H23 block and the H22 blocks. I had to purchase a halfshaft from local prelude owner who had a 4th gen with the H23 in it. But you would have seen the difference immediately because the halfshaft will not bolt up due to the amount of material on 5th gen H22 half shaft vs the H23 half shaft.

So I am thinking your axle might be too short???? Can you take a picture of how it looks?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
The half-shaft fit fine and I didn't notice any problems with it. Even if the axle was short I'm 100% positive the inner cup is fully seated on the half shaft, and I even mounted my helmet cam in the bay and drove the car to make sure the cup isn't coming out during driving.

I got an email back from Marty and he seemed to indicate there was only one type of spline for this application.

In an hour or so I'm going back out to remove the axle and compare it to the one that came with the swap, and also test fitting the old alxe cup on the half shaft so I can see if it fits the same.
 

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I haven't fixed mine yet. Had a hard time TRYING to get the upper portion separated from the downpipes. Still couldn't. And yeah along with the fact that they're prolly too close to weld. The metal is super thin and with my welder even adjusting it as much as possible I was burning through a lot.

My leaks have been causing this weird buzzing noise when I give it gas. Def. Annoying as shit.

Glad to hear you might have a solution to the axle issue.

I feel like I didn't know you were even in the military, but it must have come up before. Lol. You stationed at spang? What's your branch?
 
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