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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a write up of my installation of the ESP traction bar with front motor mount.
http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/
detailed pictures will be hosted forever so if the pictures ever fail, email me at [email protected] and i will fix them :scool:



tools i used:
car jack
two jackstands(I only had one but i recomend two)
tools you need to remove wheel (lug nut key)
ratchet(regular 3/8ths is fine)
1/2in breaker bar
sockets (10mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
wrench ( open ended 19mm, 17mm)
locktite (not necessary)

Start of removal:
Loosen all lug nuts on front two wheels. Do not remove lug nuts just yet.
Jack the front of car up. put jackstand under the two front jack points that are located right behind the front wheels.
(not a prelude, not my car, not my picture, but it looks like this)


Remove front two wheels.(now that the lug nuts are loose it shouldn't be a problem to remove the nuts with the wheels floating in the air)

As a reference point you should measure the distance of the radius rods so when you go to install the new parts, you can have a rough estimate of how long it needs to be.
circled in green


Remove the 5 14mm bolts holding the brace that connects the crossmember to the sub frame.(3 bolts in the front, 2 in the rear)
front of the brace. 2 of the 3 bolts are removedwill not be reused

the brace removed will not be reused


Remove 4 19mm bolts holding the radius rods to the lower control arm. i used a ratcheting wrench to help with lack of space (2 bolts on either sides)
one of two bolts is missing in photo will not be reused


Remove 3 14mm bolts from front motor mount/torque mount
actual mount is outlined in green will not be reused


Remove 4 19mm bolts from front crossmember(two on both sides) this part is fairly heavy so dont let it drop on your leg or anything:warning: These bolts have one washer each and i would recommend taking two of them to use later in the install.
will not be reused


Once the 4 bolts are removed, there should be nothing left holding the crossmember in place. Drag it out from under the car and set it aside to be stored or trashed later.

Finally remove the two tow hooks that are held on with 3 14mm bolts each. I forgot to take a picture of it mounted so i just held it up to where its suppose to be and snapped a quick picture.
3 bolts already removed will not be reused


ok so i lied. FINALLY remove the 10mm bolt that holds the plastic thing? i'll just show you. turns out, its in my way!


Start of install:
Bolt the esp crossmember/traction bar to the frame using the 4 bolts provided w/ the 4 washers provided. 19mm heads. Do not tighten the bolts yet. You can use locktite on these bolts if you like. I did.


Position the new adjustible radius rods into position and slide the bolt provided through the traction bar side and install the lock nut. This is where the open ended 19mm wrench comes into play. Use it to hold the nut when you need to screw the bolt all the way in, but dont screw it all the way down yet.
picture is of parts not installed onto car yet, from above view


Install the two bolts that hold the radius rods to the LCA making sure the two long washers are in correctly as it was shipped to you. I found that the bolt closest to the firewall is too long so i used one of the washers I saved from before and it works perfectly.
the long washers come like this(they are the dark bands on the bolt to the left)

add washer where im pointing my finger

you can see the washer i add in this picture. my had is on firewall side.


IF you opted to go with the traction bar with the front mount.

Add the bracket onto the motor with the two 19mm bolts.


Attach the bar/pipe now used for the front mount to the traction bar with the 19mm bolt provided.


Then attach the bracket you put on the motor to the bar/pipe/front mount.

Measure the distance of the new radius rods and make adjustments as needed. after the two are adjusted(make sure the two are as close to the same lenght as possible) tighten down the jam nuts.
two jam nuts on each radius rod. two on front mount


Tighten down all 4 bolts holding the main bar of the traction bar.


Tighten nut/bolt holding front mount and radius rods.


Reinstall wheels, remove jackstands, torque down lugnuts, and your done!:headbang:

A few after pictures.


no header to crossmember space issues here!


oh and of course. as a disclaimer "I am not responsible for anything that happens or goes wrong during or after this install" please use common sense when working on cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
question is:

do you feel a difference?
as of right now, im in need of a tune so i idle a bit rought and i feel it through the steering wheel. under normal daily driving its very stiff and i can notice the difference going from neutral back into gear and im very happy with the way that feels. :Rock: nothing over 3500rpms yet.
 

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as of right now, im in need of a tune so i idle a bit rought and i feel it through the steering wheel. under normal daily driving its very stiff and i can notice the difference going from neutral back into gear and im very happy with the way that feels. :Rock: nothing over 3500rpms yet.
cool, why did you purchase it?

wondering if it helps stiffen the whole front end in the turns!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
cool, why did you purchase it?

wondering if it helps stiffen the whole front end in the turns!
ordered it partly due to issues i had with my header clearing the crossmember and i was going to get innovative motor mounts so i kinda hit two birds with one stone:smilejap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
is it lighter than the components it replaces
eh. im gonna say yea. the new beam that comes with the traction bar is pretty heavy but if i recall correctly its still lighter then the oem crossmember
 

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good luck with your progress.....

curious to see when you start beating on her a lil bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
good luck with your progress.....

curious to see when you start beating on her a lil bit
thanks very much.
no beating on her til after july 17(sounds wrong lol) tune date
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
are you expecting to put up some new numbers or just get it to run better?
hopefully i get some better numbers. im sc now :spinface:
 

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ok nice write up son, but i just have one question that, is that traction bar for teck use od dd use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Is this piece also meant to be able to adjust caster? Looks like you can induce more caster for tighter steering from what I can see.
they way it is designed and the placement of it gives you that impression but its ability to adjust caster is very low because the distance you can adjust the radius rods isn't that far. its only enough adjusting room there to get the two sides to match and to get it as close to stock caster as possible. we all know that not all preludes are exact down to the mm in area of the car. hope i worded that correctly:-?

ok nice write up son, but i just have one question that, is that traction bar for teck use od dd use?
um, im not exactly sure what your asking but i'll try to interpret it as correctly as i can.
track use or daily driving use? i've never been to a circuit track and ive never been to a dragstrip w/ the traction bar and i've only had this on for less then a day, so not alot of DD either.

my 'theory' : stiffens your ride so some comfort is lost of course and comfort means very little to me.
handling during DD is improved and slightly noticeable in certain circumstances.:emthup:
at speeds that puts the car at its limit, as you would see at a circuit track, im sure you would notice better response from steering and acceleration out corners.:emthup:
on the quarter mile, i can see that it would help during launch and during gear shifting.(i have the esp front mount as well which limits engine movement)

did that answer your question?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
great write up man!!!!! Looks great!
thanks. i think this is my first write up:notify: i've said i was going to do others but this is the only one i actually posted up so hope this helps some one
 

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Yes, you will be able to pull more caster on the wheels and run less static camber and bite down a bit harder on turn in, and if the rod is too long you can always buy a shorter rod from ESP's supplier, or RodEndSupply which is where i get my rod-ends. your limiting factor with that is binding the LCA-subframe bushing.

when cornering and launching at the drag strip you're going to keep the suspension located, keeping your alignment settings better in cornering, and keeping the LCAs centered on a launch eliminating wheel hop.

It really is a great piece and for anyone who performance drives their car i recommend it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, you will be able to pull more caster on the wheels and run less static camber and bite down a bit harder on turn in, and if the rod is too long you can always buy a shorter rod from ESP's supplier, or RodEndSupply which is where i get my rod-ends. your limiting factor with that is binding the LCA-subframe bushing.

when cornering and launching at the drag strip you're going to keep the suspension located, keeping your alignment settings better in cornering, and keeping the LCAs centered on a launch eliminating wheel hop.

It really is a great piece and for anyone who performance drives their car i recommend it
ok well he said it better then i could ever :cry:
good to know about the shorter rods
 
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