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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 94 prelude with a h22 a swapped that I boosted. For some reason ill be driving down the road and it shuts off on me randomly so ill turn the key all the way off wait a sec and turn it on again and it will run so ill drive it a little farther and it does it again and when it does it the check engine light comes on. I can't figure it out. I do know sometimes when I go try to leave for work ill try to crank it and it just cranks I wont here the fuel pump but its brand new. But if I wait about 10 minutes and try again it turns on and the cars runs fine so I'm confused.
 

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main relay: replace or resolder (obviously with the extent of your build it could be something else...but I'd start here)
 

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Sounds like main relay to me, if it just stops running when hot, and works fine once it cools off. I keep a spare in my car, so I can swap over if one gets hot, usually only happens when I am at the track or running errands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys ill try the main relay first since its cheaper anyways and easier to replace but how do I keep it from getting to hot though
 

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I agree.. either the ignitor in the dizzy, or the main relay. You could relocate it away from the heater duct to possibly keep it a little cooler, but I doubt it'd help that much.
 

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Supposedly Honda came out with an updated main relay, that doesn't have the same solder problem as the original ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh ok so just go to like advanced auto parts or somewhere like tht and they should have it or they will order it I'm guessing. Its nothing special I have to order off line is it I mean its just a relay
 

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Ignition control modlule in the dizzy. There's no other reason. If it was the relay it wudnt even turn. Go change ur dizzy or ur ignition control man
It still should turn even if it is the relay. Unfortunately, you can't just go to a local parts dealer and purchase it. I believe this is a dealer part and is pretty expensive iirc. I do have a hunch its the dizzy though.
 

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I think it's your alarm system if you have one lol.
 

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I agree with Rduenas_92si that it is Ignition control module(plus that is what he told me when I presented my problem and he was right). A few months ago it randomly shuts off when on freeway/street and it got worse and worse where it just kept shutting off. I just brought a brand new unit from amazon and it ran sooo beautiful, I was surprised. At first I thought it was the Ignition switch soo I changed that and I was wrong soo yeah Ignition control module or just buy the whole distributor unit soo you will have a new cap and rotor as well :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Stupid question but where is the main relay located? I can't find it?
 

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Hey don't know if this can't help u but my first prelude was a 93 prelude si and it happen like 3 time I try everything...one day while doing my oil change I notice a ground looking spot underneath the hood by the side of the battery find out the battery was touching the hood don't know how cause I have the peace that hold it down I put a pice of rubber and stop doing it
 

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main relay is located behind gauge. gotta remove the speedometer to get to the main relay. if you search for diy dash removal there's a picture of where it's located. next i had the same problem...it was the icm. well the connections were loose so i tightened it up and it worked great since
 

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main relay is hard to reach, but you can get to it from the driver floor board. it is mounted with the connector pointed straight down and it is left of the steeing column if you are sitting in the seat. get a flashlight and shine it to the top of the backside of the dash and you will see it. it will be a grey or black box. the easiest thing to do is pop the relay out of the housing by pushing out on the side and pulling out side at a time.
 

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because you said the check engine light comes on when the car dies im assuming you're not losing all power. if the motor just kind of shudders and dies off then it is deff the main relay, i've repaired tons of those. if it instantly decides to shut off then you're looking at more of a distributor/spark issue. the main relay is accessed from UNDER the dash. about 1 in x 2in looking at it from the bottom. red plastic where the plug plugs in and gray outer casing. use a flat head between the metal bracket and plastic casing and push the relay UPWARD and off the bracket. just open up the main relay and look closely, you'll probably be able to spot the bad solder joint but just for shits i go around and hit each solder joint with some new flux core solder anyways.

if the motor died instantly including all dash lights and what have you then i would say the battery is shorting out somehow.

my money is on the main relay
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys but I replaced the main relay it wasn't tht its stull doing it so I went ahead and ordered a distributor I checked the battery nothings wrong there no wires loose or grounding it out
 

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Hello,
I've been having a very similar problem... 98 sh 'lude, 195k mi. Car randomly shuts off, no shutter or stall, just loss of electrical power to instrument power and engine. Used to be once a week, now whenever the engine is hot and several times each trip. If it does on the highway, I turn the key off then back on, sometime it fixes sometimes I have to pull over. I did notice that if I hold the key in start without pushing the clutch in and I'm already at highway speed, it stays running with no problem. After 20 seconds its fine. At a stop though, it takes some effort, but holding the key also seems to work. Started with bad port seals dumping oil into engine, replaced those and valve cover gasket. Replaced Egr valve, cleaned Egr ports and pgmi intake. Replaced ignitor (name? sends spark to distributor). Re-soldered the main relay. I'm thinking the switch in the steering colomn, which would be great because of the recall, but I hate to waste money at the dealership if its not. Or maybe a vacuum problem? Oh, also the dizzy took a lot of oil from leaking ports, but the contacts in the cap and the rotor appear to be fine. Sense all this work, if I'm at a stop, I can keep the car running by holding rpms at 1500-2000.
And now that I think about it, started after a body shop had a hard time with my key; if this was the problem, would it start at all? Maybe a new master key would resolve? I'm trying any and everything at this point.
Thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
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