How did y'all torque the rear wheel bearing on a 3rd gen 4ws? Every video I've looked at either has the spindle nut on the outside of the car or has a bearing assembly that bolts to the knuckle. What I'm really asking is how did you support the hub so you can tighten down the spindle nut from the back side of the knuckle? On another note, why the heck did Honda make this particular model with the spindle nut on the inside? Grrrrrr...
Wheel Bearing Replacement: Discussion
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I doubt he is even here or still owns a 3rd gen anymore. lol!!!
MustardCat shows the process in a YouTube video
Around minute 13 he is reassembling. He has it in a vice, vice holding the lug bolts.
His quote regarding torque
"I'm sure there is a torque spec, but I'm just going to impact it"
Well, I bought a pneumatic and electric torque wrenches, the electric seemed to have more butt to it and moved the spindle nut about a 1/4 turn. And everything is solid and runs fine til i get up to 70mph and then i get the now-familiar rumble. When I got home, sure enough, grabbed the rear wheel and feel a slight wobble at the 12 and 6 o'clock. Gonna look for some quality bearings, anyone have a recommendation?
Rear wheel bearings are limited. Did you just replace it, and if yes what brand did you use?
If that is the case and it is faulty immediately after replacement, it is likely the bearing was damaged during installation.
If that is the case and it is faulty immediately after replacement, it is likely the bearing was damaged during installation.
OK, bought the most expensive bearings offered on rockauto and installed. Still getting vibration around 65mph. Still a little wobble at 12 & 6 o'clock. I know about 5-6 years ago I had the same issue and found that the upper control arm bushing was pretty worn allowing the bracket to move forward and backward, about 1/2" play. I wedged in a piece of rubber to keep the bracket from moving forward and the thumping went away. Now I have replaced the bushings with some from a youtube video along with new upper control arm ball joints. The upper control arm brackets have a slot in them and I attached the ball joint assembly in the middle of the slots; wondering if I should move the ball joint assembly fully in one direction or the other?
This has been some puzzle yet to solve.
This has been some puzzle yet to solve.
That adjustment on the upper control arm is for caster.
Have you had an alignment and wheel balance since you did the work? Poor alignment or an out of balance wheel will cause vibration.
If you have 12 and 6 wobble by hand the wheel bearing is probably to blame. But you should look to see that you don't see the play in any of the other suspension parts while checking the 12 and 6 movement. If the ball joint in not properly torqued that could cause the play in the wheel.
If everything in the suspension checks out it is probably the wheel bearing, and it was probably damaged either when installed, or when the upper control arm was shimmed instead of properly repaired.
Have you had an alignment and wheel balance since you did the work? Poor alignment or an out of balance wheel will cause vibration.
If you have 12 and 6 wobble by hand the wheel bearing is probably to blame. But you should look to see that you don't see the play in any of the other suspension parts while checking the 12 and 6 movement. If the ball joint in not properly torqued that could cause the play in the wheel.
If everything in the suspension checks out it is probably the wheel bearing, and it was probably damaged either when installed, or when the upper control arm was shimmed instead of properly repaired.
I definitely want to get the alignment done by a professional. I will rotate the tires tonight to see if the problem changes.
All fasteners are torqued to the service manual specs. The car feels tight, almost like new, driving down the road and I get no noise or vibration under 65 mph.
I followed the youtube video on changing the bearings, it was pretty straightforward. The only issue is I didn't have a way to check torque on the spindle nut, I just tighted the crap out of it with an impact wrench that is rated for 450 lb./ft. while rotating the knuckle.
I used the youtube video that someone added to this post, as a step-by-step guide. I did freeze the new bearings to facilitate installation.
All fasteners are torqued to the service manual specs. The car feels tight, almost like new, driving down the road and I get no noise or vibration under 65 mph.
I followed the youtube video on changing the bearings, it was pretty straightforward. The only issue is I didn't have a way to check torque on the spindle nut, I just tighted the crap out of it with an impact wrench that is rated for 450 lb./ft. while rotating the knuckle.
I used the youtube video that someone added to this post, as a step-by-step guide. I did freeze the new bearings to facilitate installation.
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