LOL definately surprising when we pulled the head off. That engine is at the machine shop right now. Everything was still in factory spec, so aside from the rat crap, I came out okay.
I don't think I would wrap a mild steel header. It seems like it would trap moisture when the exhaust is cold, and then promote rust.The ones where wraps caused cracks and splits, I know it doesn't happen all the time, mostly caused by not knowing what ones doing (me), are your headers stainless? Mines a mild steel which is where I mostly see the problems. I watched my neighbor unwrap his, which came out in chunks.
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http://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&ei=d37CUv6fCsPUkQfK64DgBw&q=Header+wrap+caused+cracked+header&oq=Header+wrap+caused+cracked+header&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.12...115.15748.0.173220.127.116.11.0.0.1.2492.14442.2-8j3j2j4j3j1j0j2.23.0.ernk_timecombined...0...1.1.32.mobile-gws-hp..20.11.7411.nb7g0WSyIVMI don't think I would wrap a mild steel header. It seems like it would trap moisture when the exhaust is cold, and then promote rust.
Yes, mine is stainless (OBX). I haven't read anything bad about wrapping stainless headers. Do you have anything you could link?
So you plan to go down in size? Not a good way to do things.Also maybe a cheap adapter to reduce from 2.5" to the 2.25" rear section.
All that time/effort/money just to make a lot more noise?^I would wire the B20a5's IAB solenoid to a relay that would activate give me full open downpipe at 4500 RPM's.
Yep I'd reduce in size until I buy a muffler that is 2.5". No sense in having all that 2.5" pipe and no muffler, right?So you plan to go down in size? Not a good way to do things.
All that time/effort/money just to make a lot more noise?