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Lol rat shit=more compression!

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LOL definately surprising when we pulled the head off. That engine is at the machine shop right now. Everything was still in factory spec, so aside from the rat crap, I came out okay.

ACL main and rod bearings
ARP rod and head bolts
cometic mls head gasket
knife edged, polished, and balanced crank.
everything hot tanked
Milled head
5 angle valve job
port and polish

Looking for 400hp with low boost.
 

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The ones where wraps caused cracks and splits, I know it doesn't happen all the time, mostly caused by not knowing what ones doing (me), are your headers stainless? Mines a mild steel which is where I mostly see the problems. I watched my neighbor unwrap his, which came out in chunks.

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I don't think I would wrap a mild steel header. It seems like it would trap moisture when the exhaust is cold, and then promote rust.

Yes, mine is stainless (OBX). I haven't read anything bad about wrapping stainless headers. Do you have anything you could link?
 

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I don't think I would wrap a mild steel header. It seems like it would trap moisture when the exhaust is cold, and then promote rust.

Yes, mine is stainless (OBX). I haven't read anything bad about wrapping stainless headers. Do you have anything you could link?
http://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&ei=d37CUv6fCsPUkQfK64DgBw&q=Header+wrap+caused+cracked+header&oq=Header+wrap+caused+cracked+header&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.12...115.15748.0.17389.31.23.0.0.0.1.2492.14442.2-8j3j2j4j3j1j0j2.23.0.ernk_timecombined...0...1.1.32.mobile-gws-hp..20.11.7411.nb7g0WSyIVM

Ill let you go from there lol
Stainless seems to be fine when wrapped, its the mild steel headers like my pacesetter that have the problems.
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I don't like bumper stickers and this won't probably stay on very long, but it's funny because I live maybe 2000 miles from the nearest Buc-ee's. :rofl:
 

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Added the window visors and anti-glare mirror tint today.
Also installed a set of component speakers ,still working to finish hiding wires.
The mirror tint is a darker blue than I expected so not sure how long I'll keep that on.


 

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Nice!! Thanks for reminding me I want a pair of those. ;)
 

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worked on the lude and have to replace the headgasket errr. what else should I replace while im taking it apart.
not sure if your taking off the im but if you do I would buy new paper gaskets for it. Heard their usually torn once split open.
 

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Installed new exhaust rear section and muffler for about $35 total after my AutoZone discount and rewards store credit. This was more of an impulse temporary fix until I build my full exhaust.

- Thrush Turbo muffler from AutoZone (2.5" OD, 2.125" ID).
- 2.25" Strait-pipe.
- 2.25" Flexible pipe.
- 3x Exhaust clamps.
-1x Universal exhaust hanger.

Original Problem: Magnaflow catalytic converter apparently melted and blew chunks into the old Flowmaster muffler and rear section. I could hear the shit rattle around inside when driving or just kicking the muffler with my foot. It would randomly lose top end and I could hear a noise from it like gasses were being forced through the mid-pipe somewhere. Turns out, the resonator has a bunch of holes rusted through now too. When I pulled the old muffler and rear section, there was a lot of small shrapnel and some larger pieces rattling around inside.

Now, it has a very low, vintage rumble sound to it. I was hoping it would quiet down some, but it only hushed the mids and highs. The low sound is still a bit loud. Fast though. It revs up to redline in a split second now when the secondary IAB's open.

Here is what I'd like to buy in the next couple months or so:

Resonator Flowtech Red Hots Mufflers 50252FLT $19
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/big-50252flt/overview/


2.5" Cherry Bomb Mandrel Bends 320465 $14
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/imm-320465/overview/


2.5" Strait-Pipe 4 ft Summit Racing® Exhaust Tubing SUM-640025-1 $14
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-640025-1/overview/


Universal Walker Exhaust Hangers 35005 $3/ea for 3x or 4x
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-35005/overview/


Possibly a couple of these connecting the rear section up:
2.5" Summit Racing® Band Clamps SUM-693250 $6.97

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-693250/overview/

Also maybe a cheap adapter to reduce from 2.5" to the 2.25" rear section. After I square away all that, I hope to be making more money and I can buy this:

QTP QTEC25CPS 2.5" Electric Exhaust Valve & SS Cutout $222


^I would wire the B20a5's IAB solenoid to a relay that would activate give me full open downpipe at 4500 RPM's. Well, I might put a resonator on it or something else. I would also flatten out a pipe and have it exhaust out to the right-rear wheel.
 

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Also maybe a cheap adapter to reduce from 2.5" to the 2.25" rear section.
So you plan to go down in size? Not a good way to do things.


^I would wire the B20a5's IAB solenoid to a relay that would activate give me full open downpipe at 4500 RPM's.
All that time/effort/money just to make a lot more noise?
 

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Are you implying something... Lol
I think it was an inference rather than an implication :hehe:

Or maybe just an observation.
 

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So you plan to go down in size? Not a good way to do things.



All that time/effort/money just to make a lot more noise?
Yep I'd reduce in size until I buy a muffler that is 2.5". No sense in having all that 2.5" pipe and no muffler, right?

More noise is better for everything
 
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