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So for a while I have been fighting this issue where my car either doesn't start, or it cuts out, etc. I concluded it is something in the ignition system, because, if I take a spark plug boot out, install a plug, ground it, and then turn it over, the spark is intermittent, and week even if it does fire.

I've followed all the flow charts for all the major components, and the car is not throwing any codes. I've also replaced (with aftermarket parts) the ignitor, ignition coil, wires, plugs, distro rotor and cap. Is there something I'm missing?

I've heard that the radio condenser dying can cause an issue, but I have yet to find a suitable replacement. Suggestions?

Anyway, based on the symptoms I am describing - weak/intermittent spark, no codes - does anyone have any ideas? I am operating under the assumption at this point that one or all of the aftermarket components I've installed could have failed on me. I don't have much luck with aftermarket parts lasting very long.
 

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If you get a spark plug wire inductive light pen like I have listed in my oddball tool thread you don't have to pull a plug. You can test each wire quickly and then check coil wire. I suspect bad new coil but I would check main relay with a good one. It is a dual relay that also sends voltage to ecu as well as fuel pump. As Sean says ignition switch. I suspect coil or dead battery after replacing everything. So check voltage either via dmm or cigarette lighter meter and recharge if needed. The inductive test pen is best visible at night or in shade. It is like a $10 tool from Amazon or auto parts store. The condenser next to the coil is just a capacitor and I am pretty sure it is shield to prevent radio interference so no disturbance to radio signal while listening to radio
 

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Did you end up fixing it my lude is doing the same thing no spark at all changed the condenser new distributor and new coil also new main relay.
 

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Yes, actually, I just fixed it 5 minutes ago. The tabs on the distributer cap were a little worn. It didn't look that bad, but, when I put a new one on it solved the problem. I guess blame it on subpar aftermarket parts. I once had an issue where the cam shaft was shoved towards the timing belt side of the engine, and the rotor wasn't actually spinning. You might want to check that it is turning with the engine.

Now that it is running, I have a surging idle that all the usual tricks are not solving. I'm wondering if the sensor didn't fail on me as purging the water neck doesn't solve the problem. Does anyone know which sensor exactly would convince the computer to start surging the engine? I have duplicate sensors. I think the easiest thing to check after everything in the surging idle thread would be to put one of the duplicate sensors in a glass of water and plug it into the lead to see if it fixes the problem. Then I either have a bad sensor, or a really persistent bubble/clog problem in the water neck. Anyone by this approach?
 
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