Honda Prelude Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
:xloc: I have a problem with my son's 3rd Gen ('89 2.0 Si, B20A5 5-spd MT) that's got me frustrated :wzbigcry:, because I haven't been able to find and fix the cause(s) of the problem yet. So, here goes:

my son was driving home from school. He stopped get a soda on the way home, said he accidentally popped the clutch, forgot to turn off the car before releasing the clutch. Of course, the car died, so he turned it off while he got his drink. After he started up the car (normally), he got about a few hundred feet from his parking spot, had the car at about 1,500 RPM in 1st gear, then the car dropped to about 300 RPM, and wouldn't accelerate at all. It idles extremely rough, and won't drive.

I towed the car home, checked the error codes, got a code 14 (EACV). Followed the factory service manual (not a chilton or haynes, I actually bought a paper Honda factory service manual), troubleshot down to the ECU. Went to a salvage yard, got another ECU. Still have the same problem, but now I get a code 16 (fuel injector).

Trying to troubleshoot the fuel injectors, got to the point in the checklist where I need a ECU test harness, which I don't have. Can't figure out which pins on the ECU relate to the pins called out on the test harness, as I don't have a translation table for the ECU pins to harness wires. The ECU test harness takes the three separate connectors and combines the testing ports in to a single connector, so you can use your multimeter to check for voltage without having to probe the backs of the ECU connectors (could cause wire breakage, etc). Don't know where I can get a testing harness for the ECU, any ideas here would be appreciated.

This car is almost 1,000 miles out from a top-end rebuild (timing belt snapped, had to remove the head, replace a couple of valves, re-time), and was running well until last Friday.

I've checked all the obvious things (fuses, spark plugs, etc). I had previously fixed/replaced the main fuel relay, plugs (yes, they're properly gapped) and wires, dizzy cap and rotor, and ignition coil. I checked the injector resistor, and it falls within specs.

I looked at the cams, and the timing doesn't look like it jumped a tooth, but I guess it's still possible. With cylinder 1 at TDC, both cam arrows are facing up, and the two 5 MM holes used to align the cams for initial timing are lined up with the guide holes (I was able to push the 5 MM pins thorugh both cams, no problem) But with the error codes that have been called out by two different ECUs, I tended to rule that out anyway. Seems like it's either getting too much fuel or not enough air.

UPDATE: It's one week later, and I'm still having problems with this car. I pulled off the fuel line at the fuel rail, had a partner turn on the ignition and let it run for a couple of seconds into a capture jar. I got a decent amount of fuel, so I've now ruled out the fuel pump, a clogged filter or line, at least up to the fuel rail. I will pull off the rail and injectors tomorrow, and see if I get a good spray out of all the injectors.

UPDATE #2: Had a bad feeling about something, so I ran a compression test this morning (Sunday) - Cylinder #4 is only showing 55-60 on the gauge. Cylinders 1-3 are all in the 145-160 range. #4 was the cylinder two valves bent on when the timing belt snapped. The machine shop repaired the head and replaced the valves. My bet is that the head gasket popped. That really sux, because that gasket's only been on for 950 miles.

Question: Could adjusting the valves make a difference, if the tolerances are off? After 950 miles, it's probably a long shot, but it would be better than having to replace the head gasket AGAIN...

Any suggestions on this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!!
:yinyang:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
This sounds like a question for motoxxxman
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top