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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anyway im wondering if i took from the right hole for the OPG, *hope i didnt mess up my low pressure alert!*, anyway if these pics werent so slow..........


anyway i took from this hole and i assume ill have to move it, because i did it wrong... hahahaha


and this is what i pulled out of the hole
 

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Not quite sure what the question is or what you think is the problem ....

anyway, what you have there is the low pressure switch. You can fit a sensor for oil pressure in that 'hole' but you will lose the idiot light unless you put a T-piece in to re-fit the switch as well.
 

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88SE Lude said:
Not quite sure what the question is or what you think is the problem ....

anyway, what you have there is the low pressure switch. You can fit a sensor for oil pressure in that 'hole' but you will lose the idiot light unless you put a T-piece in to re-fit the switch as well.
88SE is correct. I just did this not too long ago.

I took that sensor out, screwed in some stainless braided hose, attached a 'T' fitting to the hose, on one end I screwed the low oil sensor in and the other end of the 'T' went the oil pressure gauge sensor.

Here you can see the stainless hose running up the firewall to the 'T' on the right.


 

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That brings up a good point, despite how tempting it is, don't just screw a T and the two sensors straight into the block!

Odds are after a few thousand miles the T will crack due to engine vibration and having all the sensor weight on it, and you'll find your oil pumping all over the ground.

Use a hose like Danny did, it doesn't have to be that long, but his is an excellant example!
 

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Yeah mine is a bit long for sure, but it worked out well because if it was an inch shorter, I would have had to lengthen the wires that attach to the stock low oil sensor. But it just barely reached, so its good.

And screwing the hose into the block was a PITA, there is so little room in there to get a wrench in, I had to cut one in half with an angle grinder in order to get it in there to tighten it :lol:
 

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also, another thing. if you use a hose like danny did, be sure to bleed the hose and OPG line after you install it all. this oil doesnt flow through the lines, it just sits there under pressure, so air will travel upwards, and creat air pockets, majorly altering the sensed oil pressure.

to bleed it all, simpley install everything how you want it. then crack the ends of the lines loose. disconnect the coil plugs. then have someone turn the motor over as if they were starting it, and watch the ends that you cracked loose, and tighten them down again after some oil has started to come out where you cracked them loose. this eliminates all air in the lines.

you always need to do this with that port, no matter what you connect to it, cuz the air has nowhere to go but upwards. and air pockets can severly throw off OPG's and the low pressure switch.

in danny's case, how he has that line run, he would have to bleed the line where the low pressure switch connects to the t-fitting. then for the OPG, if it is a mechanical guage, it doesnt have a sensor. the guage IS the sensor, so it would have to be bled at the guage itsself. if its an electronic OPG with an electronic sensor on the line, you would just bleed it at the sensor.
 

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just remember that some of those threads on the oil pressure sensors are sometimes tapered im not sure about the lude ive never done one but if you over tighten it say bye bye to the threads in the block and you could possibly crack the block
 

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that too. and yes, the threads in the block and on the stock low pressure sensor are tapered, so be careful, and use a few layers of teflon tape for sure.
 

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no dont use a few layers. USE ONLY ONE PASS. thats a very important tip. ONLY ONE PASS and put the teflon tape one with the direction that you will be threading it into. better yet use liquid thread sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
YAY!!! ive just finished my t-belt and its "good to go",
freakin put the crank pulley and lower cover and all the little bolts on, and then i remembered that i had yet to put the engine mount on, but besides that it went off without a hitch,

also the pully had worn a few holes into the cover so i took some "J-B WELD" and fixed those,
and besides that i fabbed up a new intake with a freakin 3" pipe that was near impossible to fit in the rubber boot of the air filter,

and ripped out that crappy wall thing in the airbox, and freed up some good hp(feels like it anyway) i have no low end and alot of top end,

changed my oil while i was at it with some (i think>>>) 5w30 "rotella T", and a 2dollar "purolator" oil filter,

and some other crap i cant remember so ill post it later... if you wanna hear more about that "wall" i yanked out of the airbox follow this link

and i also put a new intake together, with some 3" inside dia. plastic pipe, and used jb weld on the bend/cut and i used a crapload(almost 3oz.) of silicone to hold the thing inplace, and i used some "plastic chain" to support it, hmmmm... but i still have to "reinforce" the seal on the the oil line >at the OPG, cause it keeps getting bubbles,
 

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Um, isn't Rotella T the diesel engine oil made by Shell? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't oil formulated for diesel engines have insane amounts of detergent in it to combat the soot-production that comes with a diesel? I'm pretty sure that's not a good thing for the standard gasoline oil setup. Usually people only use diesel oils in gasoline cars as a flushing agent to clear out sludge (meaning, change it in 300 miles or your engine could get unhappy)...
 

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Bobnova said:
That brings up a good point, despite how tempting it is, don't just screw a T and the two sensors straight into the block!

Odds are after a few thousand miles the T will crack due to engine vibration and having all the sensor weight on it, and you'll find your oil pumping all over the ground.

Use a hose like Danny did, it doesn't have to be that long, but his is an excellant example!

Yup I work with brass tee's almost everyday and I've seen em crack from very little vibration..... the stress on the tee is enough by just screwing things on it (IE the hose, sensors etc) if you add vibrations into the equation it'll crack!!!! I've seen these things crack from vibrating water lines!!!



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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alanoneil said:
Um, isn't Rotella T the diesel engine oil made by Shell? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't oil formulated for diesel engines have insane amounts of detergent in it to combat the soot-production that comes with a diesel? I'm pretty sure that's not a good thing for the standard gasoline oil setup. Usually people only use diesel oils in gasoline cars as a flushing agent to clear out sludge (meaning, change it in 300 miles or your engine could get unhappy)...

hmmmmm, HMMMMMMMMM, HMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!! well see.
 

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good job danny! glad to see it turned out well. By the way no one mentioned but the threads in the block are bpst or brittish pipe standard tapered. Their different than npt commonly found here in the states.
 

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Bobnova said:
That brings up a good point, despite how tempting it is, don't just screw a T and the two sensors straight into the block!

Odds are after a few thousand miles the T will crack due to engine vibration and having all the sensor weight on it, and you'll find your oil pumping all over the ground.
they make aluminum Tees

i dont see what the problem would be.
 
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