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Discussion Starter #281
Got some goodies in over the past few months.



A member on another forum gifted me with this absolutely mint '88 service manual. Wouldn't even let me pay for shipping! It's in amazing condition and compliments my other beat up service manual, sales brochures, and Car and Driver with a Prelude on the cover.



The bodyshop that painted the car entered the car into a car show for April 12th, and informed me I needed to get my butt in gear getting it together. Rented a 10x20 heated storage unit that is cool with me doing a little work on the car.
So I dug the car out of the garage and rented a Uhaul trailer. Had to make some ramps to get it on there because of the low.





Since it was only -3 deg C yesterday the roads were pretty sloppy so I wrapped the bottom half to help keep it clean.

In it's new home



Also dug out the parts car and pulled the headliner





The purpose for this is to delete the USDM seatbelt light overhead console/rear view mirror. The covers on these always break leaving an ugly hole, plus I don't have the USDM seatbelts anymore. The rest of the world got a normal rear view mirror. Deleting the seatbelt lights leaves a big hole in the headliner. USDM headliner vs Canadian spec:
 

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Discussion Starter #282
Cleaned the headliner. It was pretty filthy.




Tossed it in.From this

To this



I cut the head off some bolts and sharpened the studs into spikes and pushed them through the headliner to mount the 3rd brake light. The colour of the Forester light isn't too far off.
 

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Discussion Starter #283
Bought an AC delete duct from MustardCat. Cleaned it up and put some new foam on it.



Also got his short shifter with spherical rod end upgrade.


Sanded, masked off, and painted the underside of the parcel shelf as well as touched up some spots on the top side.

I learnt my lesson trying to get overspray off the roof. The rest of the trunk will be painted at a later date, I'm just doing the underside so I can do a final install of the parcel shelf mat.


Swapped out the parcel shelf mat at the last minute. The one from the parts car is a bunch less faded.


Cleaned out the interior, ran the antenna wire, and layed out the stock insulation. This car has an antenna integrated into the glass that I don't think I've come across before. Since I shaved the conventional antenna this was a nice bonus.


Carpet in
 

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Discussion Starter #284
Mounted the PR4 Integra ECU on the stock footwell panel. Stock is on the right.





Cut some spacers for the two mounting points that lined up and welded in a 3rd point.





Repinned the longer Tunerview harness to go inside, cut a notch so the covers would fit flush, and secured the wiring inside so an accidental yank won't hurt the board.





Installed



I wiped down the rear speakers (left) with Lysol on a rag and it took off a bunch of the coating. The speaker grills don't hide anything so I'm shopping for another set of speakers that have grills large enough to cover the parcel shelf mat holes. I went through all my spare parts and can't seem to find any stock covers.





The trouble with buying another set of speakers is that nobody lists the grill diameters, and it's very possible to end up with ones that are too small. I need ones that are 7" or so, 6.5" is too small.




Rear seat belt buckles were also upgraded from the parts car





USDM (right) vs Rest of the world door panels. The panel going in is a bit beat up, but it's the only one I've got. Had to swap the center trim for the power lock switch.





Re-creating the vapour barriers. Butyl rubber, some plastic sheeting, the stock seatbelt pockets and some packing tape to join the pockets with the sheeting.





Final install of Canadian spec seatbelts!





Have to cut the carpet for the lower anchor point. Not sure what the other hole is for, it's not used normally.





More assembly. Forgot to bring the upper seat back with me that trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Drivers door got new vapour barrier and new screw plugs too. About 5 minutes of work from being done.



Also took delivery yesterday of some new front seats




Compared to stock





The stock ones aren't worn through, but the foam is trashed. This bar is constantly digging into my side.





There are two companies that make seat brackets, both are pricey. I'm going to try and make my own. For the drivers side I'll probably bolt it fixed to maximize headroom. I'm 6'2" and headspace is at a premium. This is with the seat sitting directly on the floor






I have another set of seats I'm willing to cut up to use the rails, but they're kinda goofy from factory. The outboard slider is horizontal like normal, but the inner slider is stood up vertically





Dual pillar pods. Yay or nay? I have the wideband that needs a proper mounting spot for sure. I'd like an oil pressure gauge, but haven't bought one yet. I think they look a little ricey, but very functional.
 

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Discussion Starter #287
Thanks!

Did a little bit of work today. Got the rear interior finished up, drivers side door all buttoned up, and started on finishing the passenger door. Ran out of butyl rubber and need to move the car so I can open the passenger door so I called it a night.






Also put the trunk and fuel door release covers back on.


This weekend I hope to make good progress on mounting the seats.



I'm mentally hung up on figuring out how to reach the rear seat bolts if I mount the seat directly to a bracket. Maybe I need sliders after all.
 

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Discussion Starter #289
Stock rails from a spare seat:





With the seat in place it's way too high, and pushes the seat too far outwards. The seat hits the door.





Checked my stash of seats in the basement. Between 3g Prelude, 92-95 Civic, 96-00 Civic, and 02-06 Altima, the 96-00 Civic was the clear winner. So I hit the junkyard and grabbed two sets of front seat rails plus two additional outers. They charged me $30 which I thought was high but still cheaper than anything aftermarket. Plus no waiting.





The inner rails of the Civic use a horizontal slider unlike the Prelude, but still use a vertical piece of metal to attach to the seat. Since the Recaros have a flat square bottom, I'll use only the outer rails on both the inner and outer positions.

The civic rails add just a touch over 1" height. Here are two outside rails compared to the Prelude outside rail (bottom)

 

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I see nothing wrong with the full length lotek a-pillar pod. Other then it being less then perfect at the door edge. So is the 96-00 civic outer frame rails going to directly bolt in? Or will you need to modify them.
 

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Discussion Starter #291
During my junkyard trip to get the rails I spotted a TSX with the engine still in place. Someone had already taken the cams, but I went back the next day with a buddy and pulled it with a couple 2x4s and chain.



It cleaned up nicely. Big score for $200 CAD, even without the cams. It will be going into my '99 Civic.







Finished the passenger side door







Turned the car around, pulled the suspension and brakes on the passenger side



Swapped on the Ground Control sleeves







I got some pimpy extended shock mounts for the front, but you have to cut the towers a bit to get them to fit. I don't want to mess up the paint just yet, and don't want to file all that metal away by hand (no electrical outlets at the storage unit) so they'll have to wait









Here's my idea for a seat mount



Basically uses stock mounting tabs up front that will be welded to a 3/16" thick chunk of metal. The sliders will be mounted a bit closer together to sit beside/level with the rear mounting points. When the sliders will be in the all the way back position, they will essentially be resting on the carpet. From there I'll use more 3/16" steel to connect them to the rear mounting points. Hopefully that makes sense. Front should be pretty straightforward, the rear will be involve some funky bends.

Quick phone sketch without the carpet in the way:

 

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Discussion Starter #292
I see nothing wrong with the full length lotek a-pillar pod. Other then it being less then perfect at the door edge. So is the 96-00 civic outer frame rails going to directly bolt in? Or will you need to modify them.

They will be heavily modified!


I cheaped out on buying a second gauge for now so I've bought a single universal gauge pod mount I'll probably stick on the side of the cluster surround.
 

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Discussion Starter #293
Swapped over the Ground Control sleeves. They have a pretty clever way of securing the sleeve to the shock - a rubber sleeve and some O-rings keep the sleeve centered and pretty secure. Pleasantly surprised how effective it is, my other car with Koni/Ground Controls have a nice snap ring setup where you can completely remove the spring seat. I was expecting this to be a little loose or sit a little uneven, but it's solid.





Note to self for future reference - the springs are 340lb/in front and 250lb/in rear. I have a pair of 8" 375lb/in springs I will be taking off my autox car soon, I may switch things up when I do the extended top hats. I need some seat time to figure out the balance. Only the front shocks are adjustable, and to adjust them they need to be removed from the car so I took the opportunity to set them to a 1/4 turn away from full stiff.



Also did new pads/rotors and a rattle can rebuild of everything. Went with Stoptech sport pads.




I took it for a quick spin around the parking lot to scrub the paint off the rotors and let the suspension settle. A touch too high in the rear still I think. Tape measure says I have the front lower by 15mm and the rear about the same, but the slightly shorter tires account for some of that.

 

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I should of used caliper paint. I think I used high temp and it didn't last long.
 

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Discussion Starter #298 (Edited)
No power at the storage unit means standing in ankle deep ice water and tacking together the seat slider bases on the parts car. It sucked.





This is actually the second time around, I broke the welds and switched around the sliders when I realized I couldn't link the two release levers together on the inside.
Now they're on the outside and you need to press down on both arms to get the seat to slide.



Then on Saturday (6th) I insured the car and drove it to work.

Funny wavy on the inside for the rear half. A 3/4" chunk of wood spaces the bottom of the seat just high enough to clear things.

Tacked in place. Used a blanket and wet rags immediately after to keep the carpet okay. It worked, carpet didn't get melted.



Double up things for the passenger side.



I forgot about the seatbelt receiver. This is my probably temporary solution.

It's very tight.



The other option I'm considering it mounting it to the rear cross bar, which should give a tad more space and be stronger, but then it doesn't slide with the seat. So limited in it's effectiveness if someone not close to me drives.
Thoughts?


The other thing I'd like to do is try and find a shorter receiver assembly. I used a stock 3g Prelude part. A shorter one would allow me to move the pivot higher which means I could put the seat lower, and have more room for the bolt as well as the tunnel is narrower at the top. Not too keen on cutting it in half and welding it, it's a sort of spring steel and I don't want to weaken it.
 

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Discussion Starter #299
1" square tube directly to the rails to space the back up.





What it looks like without a seat. I did the front first and majorly slotted the holes so I could get the positioning right. Then I tightened the bolts and took the seat out and made the rear support. The seat is currently held in place by four M6x1.0 bolts. The seats have another pair of mounting holes right beside the front two that I'll probably add later as I think M6s are a little small.





The front bit I wish I had better planned out as it looks a little crappy, but it's solid..







The bolts between the Civic sliders and the adapter bars I made had plenty of clearance up front, but the rear ones ended up right were the seat had a cross bar.

I tapped an M8x1.25 hole, cut the head off a bolt, chamfered the head of the newly made stud, and counter sunk the hole.





My welder wasn't consistent, one day it was nice and hot, another I needed a bit more heat on the same settings. I need to practice more, maybe change the tip, and get a better cord. Frustrating.
 

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Discussion Starter #300 (Edited)
Switching gears to the radio display, I was going to cut up my center console assembly but found an already cut up one in the garage. The Tunerview display is a bit larger than a 1 DIN opening so I needed every millimeter I could get.








I used ultra strong double sided tape to hold basically everything together. The circuit board I shaved a few mm off the bottom. The radio surround trim isn't actually for that radio, so that also got double sided tape. I used tape to hold a couple chunks of plastic on either side of the Tunerview bezel and flocking tape to create a wedge fit.



It slides into place from the top when the assembly is out, and the assembly gets put behind the climate control backlighting strip and slid upwards so I can't move anywhere. I used foam tape on the top and bottom so it's held in tension.





Also mounted the wideband to the side of the cluster hood, swapped the shifter boot with a blue stiched version (AliExpress $3 special), and a K20Mart shift knob. Stock steering wheel was swapped with a Momo Monte Carlo using an HKB hub.







The shift pattern sticker is also off AliExpress. I really like it. Cops/the Vehicle Inspection Unit around here have been known to ticket cars without a shift pattern displayed....

I also put the dead pedal in, tidy'd up the under dash wiring, and installed the sill plates, under dash trim, and kick panels.


I stupidly gave the car a rinse without drying it and got water spots everywhere.

I tried a wet shammy, 50/50 vinegar/water mix, and clay bar but that E36 M3 won't come out. Spent hours last night polishing them out as best I could. They're still there, but very faint.


Made it to the car show.



Finished the last bit of the center console and swapped in the ashtray and lighter there.



Ready.




That was a pretty hectic month. This is only the second car show I've entered now, it's a strange world. Not sure I fit in, but I find I work well when I have the pressure of a date to motivate me so it's a good way to get things done. Now to relax for a while.


To do list:
- adjust seats to be better aligned in the car
-visit junkyard for a shorter seat belt receiver, add passenger side receiver, replace driver side
-paint seat rails once done all the above
-fix coolant leaks
-cut shock towers for the extended top-hats
- raise suspension slightly
-wire in relays for LED headlights
-install fender liners
-get the tune better sorted
-drive
 
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