Honda Prelude Forum banner

261 - 280 of 305 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #262
Did some more red over spray removal on the washer tank and the vacuum reservoir for the cruise. Both live behind the bumper, but I can't leave them like that. Still not sure I'm keeping cruise.





Also painted some more bits.







Injectors installed. They're so pretty, shame they're not more visible.





Bought a crimp tool and did my first terminal ends for the new injectors. Turned out pretty good I think. I've started de-pining and sleeving the engine harness to match.





Started hanging the dash harness





I have 5 sets of pedals, and not one good pedal pad. A bunch of the pedals are bent too (including the originals - bottom left), it's pretty odd. I considered taking one apart and painting it up but said screw it and tossed them in. Rather than buy new pedal pads or cheesy aftermarket covers, I've ordered some skateboard grip tape off Amazon. See how that holds up.





The dash bar got painted and installed, the harness routed a little more, the steering column put in, and the heater box installed. I'm going to put new foam tape on that plus the blower box. The blower box isn't in yet, I want to clean it out a little better since it had mouse nest in it a couple years ago and I've got better access now.





I also have to figure out how I'm going to build a duct between the two since I'm not running A/C. The factory A/C is kind of modular and fits in between the blower and heater box. I never saved any non-AC bits from when I parted these cars out, and they're no longer available new. Might rig something up with coroplast and duct tape for now. Suggestions for a permanent solution? Fiberglass?





I also need to start paring down these harnesses that go from the dash harness up to the headlights on each side. They've got a ton of red overspray on them too.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
If you had a non ac ductwork it could be replicated for others with 3d printing. I think I ever only seen one in the junkyard and I didn't think to get it at the time. Maybe you could see if you could talk Andrew into looking for you in Vancouver. If you had a plastic welder you could probably make one pretty quick. I have one but haven't gotten around using it yet. You will need to know the kind of plastic you get so you can match the filler rod. I am in a bigger city but the local plastic shops around here I have gone through their scrap bin with there permission for free plastic or sometimes they have charged me $5-$10.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #265
Hokay, so. Updates.

Put some degreaser and a hand full of screws, shook them around for a bit. Coolant overflow now sludge free!





Weak original keyhole LED




New white LED with more powar!




Looped some unused coolant nipples on the hard pipe. What say you, is fuel line okay for coolant? I get both answers from Google.




July 28th I was done sleeving the engine harness, loaded it up and brought the engine home




In it goes. I was able to sneak it in without scratches thanks to some well placed cardboard.






July 29th replaced the front brake hoses, installed axles, and since I couldn't wait I tossed on the front suspension and wheels.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #266
Disassembled and painted the headlight motors. The brushes were pretty low on one, but I didn't remember to mark it. They needed paint as the passenger side one was pretty gross from the battery acid that ate everything in the RF corner from it's accident.



Aug 4th replaced rear brake hoses, installed rear lowering suspension and wheels. GF helped bleed all four corners and the clutch.
The radiator is pretty gross but doesn't leak and kept the car cool so it just got a rinse and a coat of rust paint. Waffling between replacing it with an oem Denso from Rock Auto, or the chinese ebay aluminum rad. The ebay rad has the lower temp sender at an angle that makes it impossible to use apparently, but my ECU has the capability of fan control. Also new heater core hose and upper rad hose.



Aug 5th got the front chassis harnesses wrapped up and installed. Only from under-dash to about center of front wheels, the forward light harness I still have to revisit. Fuel lines all hooked up, all power steering lines installed and filled, wiring all connected, new coolant hose almost everywhere. Filled it with fluids, only to get this.

Leaking from hard pipe o-ring going into the back of the water pump.
Decided to continue forward and plug the ecu in and turn the key. Promptly smoked something in the ECU.

Turns out it's transistor Q31 for the purge valve circuit. I de-pined the purge wire at the ECU, loaded a tune and started it up 10pm with open header. I was angry and frustrated, really pissed with myself.

Aug 6th long weekend Monday I hit reset and made myself slow down. The smoked transistor is a pretty common thing on swappped Civics apparently when people mix up the IAT and purge valve connectors. Luckily it doesn't affect operation (or even throw a code) and can be fixed pretty cheap if you send it out, or for under $5 if you DIY. There are how-to's on Youtube. In my rush I had taped up the un-used pins inside the RF fender harness without insulating them and fed 12v directly to the purge control wire. I am not a smart man.


Spent 3.5 hrs extracting the coolant hard pipe from the back of the block, replacing the O-ring with new OEM, adjusting the positioning tab, and making damn sure it went it without rolling or pinching. The old o-ring looked fine, I'm not 100% sure what happened. I took off the intake manifold support braces to get to it, and have left them off. Not sure if they're really needed. Anybody have any experience with them causing issues?



Finished the day by quickly wiring up the front turn/marker and fog/drl lights for the '88-'89 front end conversion so I could drive it to work to get the exhaust welded up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Disassembled and painted the headlight motors. The brushes were pretty low on one, but I didn't remember to mark it. They needed paint as the passenger side one was pretty gross from the battery acid that ate everything in the RF corner from it's accident.



Aug 4th replaced rear brake hoses, installed rear lowering suspension and wheels. GF helped bleed all four corners and the clutch.
The radiator is pretty gross but doesn't leak and kept the car cool so it just got a rinse and a coat of rust paint. Waffling between replacing it with an oem Denso from Rock Auto, or the chinese ebay aluminum rad. The ebay rad has the lower temp sender at an angle that makes it impossible to use apparently, but my ECU has the capability of fan control. Also new heater core hose and upper rad hose.



Aug 5th got the front chassis harnesses wrapped up and installed. Only from under-dash to about center of front wheels, the forward light harness I still have to revisit. Fuel lines all hooked up, all power steering lines installed and filled, wiring all connected, new coolant hose almost everywhere. Filled it with fluids, only to get this.

Leaking from hard pipe o-ring going into the back of the water pump.
Decided to continue forward and plug the ecu in and turn the key. Promptly smoked something in the ECU.

Turns out it's transistor Q31 for the purge valve circuit. I de-pined the purge wire at the ECU, loaded a tune and started it up 10pm with open header. I was angry and frustrated, really pissed with myself.

Aug 6th long weekend Monday I hit reset and made myself slow down. The smoked transistor is a pretty common thing on swappped Civics apparently when people mix up the IAT and purge valve connectors. Luckily it doesn't affect operation (or even throw a code) and can be fixed pretty cheap if you send it out, or for under $5 if you DIY. There are how-to's on Youtube. In my rush I had taped up the un-used pins inside the RF fender harness without insulating them and fed 12v directly to the purge control wire. I am not a smart man.


Spent 3.5 hrs extracting the coolant hard pipe from the back of the block, replacing the O-ring with new OEM, adjusting the positioning tab, and making damn sure it went it without rolling or pinching. The old o-ring looked fine, I'm not 100% sure what happened. I took off the intake manifold support braces to get to it, and have left them off. Not sure if they're really needed. Anybody have any experience with them causing issues?



Finished the day by quickly wiring up the front turn/marker and fog/drl lights for the '88-'89 front end conversion so I could drive it to work to get the exhaust welded up.

Nice progress !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #268
Aug 7th was the maiden voyage.



I scavenged a crusty flange from my parts shed so I could join the DC header to the factory exhaust rather than weld it all together. Someone had repaired it once before and it was pretty bad.



Even though this is a temporary exhaust I had to fix it up a bit



Downpipe now bolts on. Added a second O2 bung for the wideband. My ECU is runing a Moates Demon module with Neptune software. I did a simple mod to the ECU when I was using it in my it was my Civic many years ago that allows me to use the full 5V wideband signal for closed loop correction on one of the unused pins, but I'm not sure if the ECU would be able to take advantage of the more accurate data. It may work better if fed a switching 0-1V..does that make sense?


The fresh air inlet under the cowl had some plastic mesh the mice went right through when the car was sitting. I made a mouse proof version with a spare stainless grille insert from a truck. Free upgrades FTW.



Aug 8th, 9th, and 10th I sorted all my weatherstripping, removed overspray, replaced broken clips, applied Shin-etsu grease, and installed. S2000 guys swear by this stuff to keep the softtop seals nice. Hopefully it does something for my 27 year old rubber.



Also spent hours cleaning my own overspray from around the sunroof opening. Never again am I being lazy with the masking. An once prevention of is worth a pound of cure is fucking right.
The morning of the 10th the car went it to have it's government required immobilizer replaced under recall. I also got them to relocate one of the cuts they had previously done underhood to inside as I welded up the hole they had previously drilled in the firewall.
Door glass, door trims, cowl trims, windshield trims, and hood washer bar were also installed.




Still need to clean up the harness in the passenger rear corner. I'm running a civic MAP sensor ziptied in place by the fuel filter for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #269
Aug 11th I brought the car to work and mounted the rear bumper properly instead of with painters tape. Also installed the fresh air vents.



I can't believe the little M5x0.8 screws for the neat contraption used to mount the leading edges of the rear bump all came out without stripping. Southern cars are amazing!



New license plate light lenses. They're very cheap from Honda.



Done for the day. Stopped at Canadian Tire to get some detailing supplies.


The big push to get it looking/driving is because the shop that painted the car is a sponsor at a car show a little out of town today (Aug 12th). This is the first car show I've been in. I had no idea what to expect. It was huge, there were over 350 cars. It was also brutally hot.

Apparently last year there were close to 700 cars. My spot for the day.

I think there were 3 Hondas there. Lots of cool hot rods and muscle cars though.


I'm just going to put a bunch of these here, because I can't stop looking at my car. Love the way it looks.


The colour is so cool! At the end of the show I drove down closer to the water to take a couple shots.



So the big push is over, I'm going to take it a bit easier now and finish all the loose ends I rushed past in the last week. Also get started on putting the interior back in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
Between a Barracuda and a Challenger. Nice!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
I love the pic of driving it with no interior! Especially the bungee cord holding the gauge cluster in place. :D Looking good. What metal prep did you use. I had heard to use something different then standard because it is cast aluminum but never got around to looking into it. The blue color looks very similar to the ppg I use to remove rust on steel sheet metal.

Also I would like to know what all you learned about taking the headlight motors apart and anything to look out for. You mentioned something about one of the brushes being short from use. Do you know of a replacement? I got a brand new left one but the right I still need to get at least a used one for the passenger side. Which reminds me I need to go to the junkyard they actually have a 3rd gen for a change.

Did you order that silicone grease for the weather stripping online? Thanks for the pic of the belt moulding clips. I might have something that will work as a replacement but I haven't had a chance to look into it yet.

Oh yeah I would reinstall the intake manifold support brackets. It is really heavy and while it may be attached with a steel stud and steel nut the stud still threads into soft aluminum threads in block. Plus all that weight just cantilevered of the side of the engine. A word of advice on reinstalling them is to use masking tape the top bolts to the socket to avoid dropping them and loosing them.

Yeah when I replaced all the hoses back there in '04 right after getting the lude I pulled that pipe and replaced its oring. It wasn't fun with the transmission in at the time. But I was doing the timing belt and water pump at the same time and the factory shop manual says to replace that o-ring when replacing the waterpump. It never gets done I am sure since removing the water pump doesn't help you get any closer to replacing the o-ring.

Oh incase you missed it. Mustard cat and I both had a mouse in our trunks. That vent on the driver's side the can get in. I don't remember if you covered that with mesh yet. Mustard Cat's pic should be on his build thread one or the other. I can get pics of how I did mine if you want. I took a lot more time making mine but it looks nicer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,567 Posts
Nice work Ben. I love the detail work and all the little stuff.

I really wish I had a shop to be able to do stuff like this...lol :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #274 (Edited)
Thanks for the kind words guys! Boy this forum is difficult to use. I haven't been able to use the "new posts" button in weeks so I haven't bothered to check back.


I love the pic of driving it with no interior! Especially the bungee cord holding the gauge cluster in place. :D Looking good. What metal prep did you use. I had heard to use something different then standard because it is cast aluminum but never got around to looking into it. The blue color looks very similar to the ppg I use to remove rust on steel sheet metal.

Also I would like to know what all you learned about taking the headlight motors apart and anything to look out for. You mentioned something about one of the brushes being short from use. Do you know of a replacement? I got a brand new left one but the right I still need to get at least a used one for the passenger side. Which reminds me I need to go to the junkyard they actually have a 3rd gen for a change.

Did you order that silicone grease for the weather stripping online? Thanks for the pic of the belt moulding clips. I might have something that will work as a replacement but I haven't had a chance to look into it yet.

Oh yeah I would reinstall the intake manifold support brackets. It is really heavy and while it may be attached with a steel stud and steel nut the stud still threads into soft aluminum threads in block. Plus all that weight just cantilevered of the side of the engine. A word of advice on reinstalling them is to use masking tape the top bolts to the socket to avoid dropping them and loosing them.

Yeah when I replaced all the hoses back there in '04 right after getting the lude I pulled that pipe and replaced its oring. It wasn't fun with the transmission in at the time. But I was doing the timing belt and water pump at the same time and the factory shop manual says to replace that o-ring when replacing the waterpump. It never gets done I am sure since removing the water pump doesn't help you get any closer to replacing the o-ring.

Oh incase you missed it. Mustard cat and I both had a mouse in our trunks. That vent on the driver's side the can get in. I don't remember if you covered that with mesh yet. Mustard Cat's pic should be on his build thread one or the other. I can get pics of how I did mine if you want. I took a lot more time making mine but it looks nicer.

Kev,

The acid is POR15 Metal prep.


No real trick to the headlight motors, just pull them apart. The motor does have some wave washers you need to look out for that will likely fall out, one goes behind the actuator arm, and the other at the top of the armature (under the manual knob end). I didn't replace the brushes, I figure I'm not going to be using the car that much and once they do wear out completely I have probably another 6 or so extras.
If you find a prelude at the junkyard without A/C, please grab the a/c bypass duct for me!


EDIT: The shin-etsu grease I bought online from a Honda dealership. Part #08798-901
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #275
Not too much done in the last couple weeks.
Put the B21 from the now-blue car into the parts car. ALB sure makes that a pain with the reduced clearance. It has a bouncy idle now, but I don't care because it just has to make it 10 minutes home where it'll sit indefinitely. Still going to grab the interior from it. Happy to say the California spec and Canadian spec engine harness work fine together. Not sure what the extra fan switch on the thermostat housing actually does. Fans appear to work.








New foam on the blower and heater box.





And made a replacement for this

that looks like this

and fits like this



I need a more permanent solution. I was maybe thinking sheets of ABS plastic, but I can't think of a way to join the corners that I'd be happy with short of learning to plastic weld. Seems like a lot of work.
My other thought it fiberglass?
Anyone have a better idea?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #276
Installed a remote start with alarm kit, found and installed all the HVAC ducting, replaced some old foam and tossed the dash back into place.





Gave it a quick toe adjustment as it was severely toe'd in after lowering. Once my work gets an alignment rack I'll get a locking tool to center the rear steering rack and give it a proper alignment.





Swapped out the stock sway bars and end links.



Front bar is a Whiteline unit, end links, rear sway bar, and shock tower bar are all from MustardCat.





I did have to notch the muffler support to fit, but that's okay.





The stock muffler has some loose baffles inside and sounds like ass. I scored big at the junkyard and found this Vibrant 2.5" polished twin tip muffler, which is pretty much exactly what I wanted and pretty much the same muffler I put on the V6 Sentra, except polished. I paid $15!!





Finished wrapping up the wiring underhood one evening.





Bought a small battery on eBay that was highly recommended on another forum. Only $35, it's much smaller than I expected.




Only tests at 194 CCA, not sure if it's going to work for me.





Finally wired up the wideband input to the ECU. I'm hooked into the unused ELD pin and the car can run closed loop on a 0-5v input instead of the stock narrowband signal.




Also hooked up the TunerViewII display.





Unfortunately I plugged my laptop into the ECU yesterday and seemed to have bricked the Moates Demon unit so the car basically doesn't run anymore. Waiting for a reply before I send it in and get it fixed up. But it might be storage time for the car by the time that happens.



Did make it out to a car meet a couple weeks ago.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
Look forward to a thorough review on that combination of mustard cat rear sway bar and whiteline front sway bar. I have whiteline front and rear.

Also is those round holes one in each rocker panel on the inside of the cabin the only way mice can get in besides the trunk vent and fresh air vent? I had a mouse in the cabin and I think it got in the same way as yours. I have a rust hole in the rear rocker driver's side.

I didn't check the fresh air vent but will tomorrow or soon. The trunk vent I already mouse proofed before. I figure I will just remove the door sills and pull the carpet back and drill a screw hole just above those rocker access holes and just screw a square piece of sheetmetal over each.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #279
The holes that go along the the inside of the rockers are definitely somewhere mice used as a passageway in my car after I rescued it from the woods, but I'm not sure how they initially got inside them - possibly from the frame rails underhood and underneath? Those rocker panel passageways are also connected to the A, B, and C pillars so blocking them from the inside is pretty futile as every little hole along rockers, pillars, and roof is connected to them. That's how I fished my B pillar reinforcements plates for the seat belt conversion.


I think you're better off blocking their entry into the rockers rather than limiting entry into the interior once they're inside the chassis.


These posts show where I found some of their mess and trying to clean up after them:
https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4061362&postcount=129
https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4064546&postcount=134
https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4069698&postcount=139




New Demon2 module for the ECU is supposed to be here on Tuesday!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
not what I wanted to hear. lol but thanks for the input makes sense.
 
261 - 280 of 305 Posts
Top