Disassembled and painted the headlight motors. The brushes were pretty low on one, but I didn't remember to mark it. They needed paint as the passenger side one was pretty gross from the battery acid that ate everything in the RF corner from it's accident.
Aug 4th replaced rear brake hoses, installed rear lowering suspension and wheels. GF helped bleed all four corners and the clutch.
The radiator is pretty gross but doesn't leak and kept the car cool so it just got a rinse and a coat of rust paint. Waffling between replacing it with an oem Denso from Rock Auto, or the chinese ebay aluminum rad. The ebay rad has the lower temp sender at an angle that makes it impossible to use apparently, but my ECU has the capability of fan control. Also new heater core hose and upper rad hose.
Aug 5th got the front chassis harnesses wrapped up and installed. Only from under-dash to about center of front wheels, the forward light harness I still have to revisit. Fuel lines all hooked up, all power steering lines installed and filled, wiring all connected, new coolant hose almost everywhere. Filled it with fluids, only to get this.
Leaking from hard pipe o-ring going into the back of the water pump.
Decided to continue forward and plug the ecu in and turn the key. Promptly smoked something in the ECU.
Turns out it's transistor Q31 for the purge valve circuit. I de-pined the purge wire at the ECU, loaded a tune and started it up 10pm with open header. I was angry and frustrated, really pissed with myself.
Aug 6th long weekend Monday I hit reset and made myself slow down. The smoked transistor is a pretty common thing on swappped Civics apparently when people mix up the IAT and purge valve connectors. Luckily it doesn't affect operation (or even throw a code) and can be fixed pretty cheap if you send it out, or for under $5 if you DIY. There are how-to's on Youtube. In my rush I had taped up the un-used pins inside the RF fender harness without insulating them and fed 12v directly to the purge control wire. I am not a smart man.
Spent 3.5 hrs extracting the coolant hard pipe from the back of the block, replacing the O-ring with new OEM, adjusting the positioning tab, and making damn sure it went it without rolling or pinching. The old o-ring looked fine, I'm not 100% sure what happened. I took off the intake manifold support braces to get to it, and have left them off. Not sure if they're really needed. Anybody have any experience with them causing issues?
Finished the day by quickly wiring up the front turn/marker and fog/drl lights for the '88-'89 front end conversion so I could drive it to work to get the exhaust welded up.
I love the pic of driving it with no interior! Especially the bungee cord holding the gauge cluster in place. Looking good. What metal prep did you use. I had heard to use something different then standard because it is cast aluminum but never got around to looking into it. The blue color looks very similar to the ppg I use to remove rust on steel sheet metal.
Also I would like to know what all you learned about taking the headlight motors apart and anything to look out for. You mentioned something about one of the brushes being short from use. Do you know of a replacement? I got a brand new left one but the right I still need to get at least a used one for the passenger side. Which reminds me I need to go to the junkyard they actually have a 3rd gen for a change.
Did you order that silicone grease for the weather stripping online? Thanks for the pic of the belt moulding clips. I might have something that will work as a replacement but I haven't had a chance to look into it yet.
Oh yeah I would reinstall the intake manifold support brackets. It is really heavy and while it may be attached with a steel stud and steel nut the stud still threads into soft aluminum threads in block. Plus all that weight just cantilevered of the side of the engine. A word of advice on reinstalling them is to use masking tape the top bolts to the socket to avoid dropping them and loosing them.
Yeah when I replaced all the hoses back there in '04 right after getting the lude I pulled that pipe and replaced its oring. It wasn't fun with the transmission in at the time. But I was doing the timing belt and water pump at the same time and the factory shop manual says to replace that o-ring when replacing the waterpump. It never gets done I am sure since removing the water pump doesn't help you get any closer to replacing the o-ring.
Oh incase you missed it. Mustard cat and I both had a mouse in our trunks. That vent on the driver's side the can get in. I don't remember if you covered that with mesh yet. Mustard Cat's pic should be on his build thread one or the other. I can get pics of how I did mine if you want. I took a lot more time making mine but it looks nicer.