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1995 Prelude SR
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone, this is going to be the main build thread for my '95 SR. Title spoils what I'm doing to the car, but here you'll get the whole story!

Continuing the story from my intro post...

Once the Prelude was home, I noticed a lot more wrong. There were multiple attempts to work on the car, which I noticed when inspecting the car, but once at home in the garage, I was wondering why the car would clonk when rolling it forwards/backwards. Took a look underneath, aaand... the crossmember was just hanging there. No bolts.



This... is going to set the scene for the rest of the things we find with the car.

The next order of business was to hit the junkyard to gather the missing parts to get the old H23A1 up and running again. Valve cover, heatshield, timing cover plastics, bolts, the gas cap, fuse box cover, and much more.



I also picked up a new crossmember, in case the old one was funky and there was some reasoning behind it being dropped.





Also replaced the completely cracked front motor mount.





The battery tray & tie down bracket received some love, removed all the rust and coated in black plasti-dip. I like to use that for the battery items to prevent further corrosion and the plasti-dip is also non-conductive.



Now for the water pump job! Got the harmonic balancer lock tool and some BIG breaker bars. Took care of the harmonic balancer bolt real easily.



The bolt was insanely chewed up from previous attempts at removal.



I also had to get a new harmonic balancer because the old one was chipped.



Now onto the timing belt / water pump job! Kinda sucks to do with the engine crammed up against the LH frame rail. The old water pump was definitely seized up, so good thing that was swapped out.





With all that done, I reassembled everything and went in for the first start!



Let's just say... it didn't go well. I think the seized water pump caused MANY valves to take marriage vows and kiss the pistons, because the top end clattered like crazy. I was wondering why the bin of parts the car came with cams, valve springs and cam gears... welp.

ENGINE OUT!



On the engine stand of shame you sit. 馃槫



M2S4 on ground.



Wasn't sure I was going to be able to drive this thing around much even if it ran correctly. Not much clutch left. Plus the clutch pedal went straight to the floor.



So, off to a local JDM engine warehouse I went. I found another H23... just a spicier one. 馃榿 This was the point where the car went from being a flipper to a keeper.





Stay tuned for more! I'm off to go work on the car some more. Things like ABS delete, blah blah 5-lug conversion, blah blah Accord 5th gear. 馃槒
 
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1995 Prelude SR
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sweet! You are lucky you have preludes in your junkyard near you! I just wish that would be possible. There was a 5th gen but once I got to it it was stripped and the engine and body shell was the only stuff left. But there are never any 3 rd gens to find in a junkyard.

Sure is a cool build though!
Thanks! 4th gens don't come up often, but when they do, I try to grab some hard-to-find items from them. I never see 3rd gens in the yard, let alone on the road! They must be incredibly rare.
 
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1995 Prelude SR
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Continuing on! 馃槃 I'd ordered everything I thought I would need to get the H23A VTEC properly refreshed, and also read up on a few threads on the H23A1 鉃 H23A swap to make sure I knew what I was to expect. So while waiting for parts to arrive, it was time to sort out a few things that were either very poorly repaired or in dire need of maintenance after 237k miles.

The first order of business was to remove the aftermarket stereo install. It had a dual-DIN Pioneer unit that powered on, but had no audio output. Came to find out that someone pulled the amplifier out of the trunk before the car was sold. So I decided to pull all the extra speaker wiring out and buy a used OEM cassette deck to replace it with (I like the nostalgia). I pulled out 5 lbs worth of wiring. The siren in the pile was just chilling in the engine bay, not hooked up to anything.



The cruise control actuator connector was spliced and replaced at some point too, with what my friend @kace_ra64 identified as a connector used for RC cars?! Either way, an OEM connector pigtail from the junkyard, properly soldered in, was put in its stead.





Also gave the engine bay a quick degrease and wash since most everything was out of the way. 馃榿 Much better!



The shifter base was a little crusty and in need of some replacement pivot bushings, so I de-rusted and painted the base, and sourced new OEM bushings.





Mmm, fresh NLGI 2 moly grease!



This went back in the center console with Cheddas shifter base and cable bushings!



Next, let's bid farewell to the old engine, take a moment to grieve and recompose ourselves...

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With the clattery engine gone (I literally could not sell it), and all the parts stripped from the H23A1 that I thought I would need for the VTEC engine swap, I started trimming the H23A1 power steering pump bracket so it would clear the ribs in the H23A's casting.



There's a little more trimming needed than the image above shows, so I'd suggest mocking up the bracket on the engine with the bolts to see what you'll need to trim. It's pretty straightforward.



Next, I sorted out the intake manifold- here, the H23A VTEC lower manifold and A1 upper mainfold is used. The IAB plate from either engine will work. Throttle body is also from the A1 as it was mated to the upper manifold already.



The fuel rail is from the A1, swapped in with the A1 fuel rail studs and spacers to the H23A lower manifold, and the injectors are from an H22A (low impedance versions for use with the injector ballast). Yes, the center stud is missing, but the H23A VTEC fuel rail is setup this way on the lower manifold and swaps over easily. The injectors received new seals and micro basket filters



Quick note; if you run a P28 ECU, it won't be able to control the IAB butterflies, so you will either have to plug off the vacuum lines that run to the actuator, or like I did, gut the IAB entirely, then drill, tap & plug off the butterfly shaft holes with 1/8" NPT plugs. I took the latter route since I will be running a chipped P28 ECU.



I put some black RTV sealant on the threads of the plugs to ensure I wouldn't have any vacuum leaks.





With that out of the way, I took care of the water pump / timing belt / tensioner job. Bit messy with the engine upside down, but I wanted to take the oil pan off to reseal it, and remove the oil pump to replace the o-rings that go between it and the engine block.



Replaced every seal I could in there. Balanced shafts were retained, I decided not to delete them because the Lude is still going to be a street car after all. 馃槄



Can't forget about the oil pump pickup tube seal!



Since the oil pan was off, doing the rear main seal was a breeze (but a tight area to work with on the engine stand).



All done! Don't forget to time both balance shafts. 馃榾



Can't forget the billet manual timing belt tensioner.



All covered up and with the H23A1 harmonic balancer in place. I'll replace the crank bolt once the engine goes back into the car; I do have it on hand at least!



That's it for tonight folks, there's still more to cover though, so stay tuned!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just wanted to let you know that I fully intend to sit down and read each and every single one of your posts. I have a 1997 Honda Prelude Type SH with an H23A JDM swap as well. It's very helpful to see someone doing work to this engine in modern time. I hope to learn something from your posts and just know you have a H23A Lude Bro :D
Ayyy thanks! No worries, there's a lot to read and digest here! Let me know if there's any questions or details you need on the work I did and I'll be more than happy to help answer. 馃槃 H23 Bros!!
 
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