Honda Prelude Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:uriel:Tomorow she officially turns on... now. question is, how do i maintain her running at her peak. Like i just want her to be reliable and still stay strong. Question is, What changes of the maintenance? Like difference in turbo and stock. I know this is a pretty noob question, but i honestly just want to know from real Boosted Owners!!

:baa:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
Check fluid levels all the time.
Also you need to check the clamps and couplers often also.
And don't beat it up so bad for the first 200 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Check fluid levels all the time.
Also you need to check the clamps and couplers often also.
And don't beat it up so bad for the first 200 miles.
Nicee... i dont have my Vaccuum lines connected... can i turn the car on without connecting the vaccuum lines...
just turn it on.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
13,157 Posts
no you can't turn the car on without vacuum lines connected. everything must be connected as it will be when it's finished

maintainance:
-change oil ever 2k-3k miles, NEVER go past 3k!
-check and change the air filter whenever it starts looking fairly dirty
-check and adjust spark plug gap at every oil change, and replace the plugs when they start losing the tip. (i recommend using irridiums, in which case you'll almost never need to regap or replace them)
-adjust the valve lash asap, and then again in a few hundred miles, and then again every 10k miles or so after that.
-drain and refill the coolant with new stuff every 10k-15k miles
-when you do change the oil, remove the ecu fuse and the clock fuse and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out or until your oil pressure guage shows at least 5psi of oil pressure. then take the key out and put the fuses back in, then start the engine. and always check the oil level and top it off as necessary after starting it, but before driving it. this process primes the oil after the change so there isnt a period of zero oil pressure/flow while running
-pay attention to your boost guage (you should have one). watch the boost at full throttle, and keep an eye out for higher or lower than normal boost levels. if it ever does either by more than a few psi, let off immediately and pull over asap and find out whats wrong
-always let it idle for a minute or more before shutting it off. especially if you've hammered on it recently. the harder you drive it, the longer it needs to idle before shutting off
-always let it warm up at least a little bit before driving. ideally, you should never drive it until its at full operating temp, but sometimes you just gotta be in a hurry and have no choice lol. NEVER boost it unless its at full operating temp!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
no you can't turn the car on without vacuum lines connected. everything must be connected as it will be when it's finished

maintainance:
-change oil ever 2k-3k miles, NEVER go past 3k!
-check and change the air filter whenever it starts looking fairly dirty
-check and adjust spark plug gap at every oil change, and replace the plugs when they start losing the tip. (i recommend using irridiums, in which case you'll almost never need to regap or replace them)
-adjust the valve lash asap, and then again in a few hundred miles, and then again every 10k miles or so after that.
-drain and refill the coolant with new stuff every 10k-15k miles
-when you do change the oil, remove the ecu fuse and the clock fuse and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out or until your oil pressure guage shows at least 5psi of oil pressure. then take the key out and put the fuses back in, then start the engine. and always check the oil level and top it off as necessary after starting it, but before driving it. this process primes the oil after the change so there isnt a period of zero oil pressure/flow while running
-pay attention to your boost guage (you should have one). watch the boost at full throttle, and keep an eye out for higher or lower than normal boost levels. if it ever does either by more than a few psi, let off immediately and pull over asap and find out whats wrong
-always let it idle for a minute or more before shutting it off. especially if you've hammered on it recently. the harder you drive it, the longer it needs to idle before shutting off
-always let it warm up at least a little bit before driving. ideally, you should never drive it until its at full operating temp, but sometimes you just gotta be in a hurry and have no choice lol. NEVER boost it unless its at full operating temp!!

nice write up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
no you can't turn the car on without vacuum lines connected. everything must be connected as it will be when it's finished

maintainance:
-change oil ever 2k-3k miles, NEVER go past 3k!
-check and change the air filter whenever it starts looking fairly dirty
-check and adjust spark plug gap at every oil change, and replace the plugs when they start losing the tip. (i recommend using irridiums, in which case you'll almost never need to regap or replace them)
-adjust the valve lash asap, and then again in a few hundred miles, and then again every 10k miles or so after that.
-drain and refill the coolant with new stuff every 10k-15k miles
-when you do change the oil, remove the ecu fuse and the clock fuse and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out or until your oil pressure guage shows at least 5psi of oil pressure. then take the key out and put the fuses back in, then start the engine. and always check the oil level and top it off as necessary after starting it, but before driving it. this process primes the oil after the change so there isnt a period of zero oil pressure/flow while running
-pay attention to your boost guage (you should have one). watch the boost at full throttle, and keep an eye out for higher or lower than normal boost levels. if it ever does either by more than a few psi, let off immediately and pull over asap and find out whats wrong
-always let it idle for a minute or more before shutting it off. especially if you've hammered on it recently. the harder you drive it, the longer it needs to idle before shutting off
-always let it warm up at least a little bit before driving. ideally, you should never drive it until its at full operating temp, but sometimes you just gotta be in a hurry and have no choice lol. NEVER boost it unless its at full operating temp!!
Very nice write up... and rep points for you man!!!:headbang:

So u want me to prime the engine when i put the first oil change in?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
13,157 Posts
Very nice write up... and rep points for you man!!!:headbang:

So u want me to prime the engine when i put the first oil change in?
thank you.
yeah, i suggest priming the oil after every oil change before actually starting the engine.
i do it in every honda, even stock ones.
i dont remember the exact number, but its something like: for every second the engine runs without oil pressure/flow its equivilent to around 10k miles of wear. and when you change the filter, it empties the filter and some of the ports, causing 1-2 seconds of low/zero oil pressure/flow upon initial startup until it fills up again if you dont prime it. priming it cuts that time down to about 1/4 of a second or so on average or less from what i've seen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,168 Posts
Wow I have never heard of priming, thats something I gotta look up, oh and rep points too!!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
13,157 Posts
Wow I have never heard of priming, thats something I gotta look up, oh and rep points too!!
careful when searching priming the oil. according to the manual theres a special tool you can connect to the oil pump that primes the entire engine without turning it over. but noone uses that tool lol, they just do it this way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
no you can't turn the car on without vacuum lines connected. everything must be connected as it will be when it's finished

maintainance:
-change oil ever 2k-3k miles, NEVER go past 3k!
-check and change the air filter whenever it starts looking fairly dirty
-check and adjust spark plug gap at every oil change, and replace the plugs when they start losing the tip. (i recommend using irridiums, in which case you'll almost never need to regap or replace them)
-adjust the valve lash asap, and then again in a few hundred miles, and then again every 10k miles or so after that.
-drain and refill the coolant with new stuff every 10k-15k miles
-when you do change the oil, remove the ecu fuse and the clock fuse and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out or until your oil pressure guage shows at least 5psi of oil pressure. then take the key out and put the fuses back in, then start the engine. and always check the oil level and top it off as necessary after starting it, but before driving it. this process primes the oil after the change so there isnt a period of zero oil pressure/flow while running
-pay attention to your boost guage (you should have one). watch the boost at full throttle, and keep an eye out for higher or lower than normal boost levels. if it ever does either by more than a few psi, let off immediately and pull over asap and find out whats wrong
-always let it idle for a minute or more before shutting it off. especially if you've hammered on it recently. the harder you drive it, the longer it needs to idle before shutting off
-always let it warm up at least a little bit before driving. ideally, you should never drive it until its at full operating temp, but sometimes you just gotta be in a hurry and have no choice lol. NEVER boost it unless its at full operating temp!!
:emthup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
Good write up MOTO.

I know motoman recommended the iridium plugs. If you have not decided yet on what to use, I recommend the NGK 8, number 2660. It is a race plug pre gapped at .028. It is what I have been using the last 3 years. I will replace mine every 2-3 months depending on the km`s, or I might change them up a couple days before a track event. They are 3-4 bucks each lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
I use Ngk's also and I do recommend changing them often I really depends on how often you drive it. Also you live in FL, what type of rad are you using? I have a full size koyo rad shoe horned in to my car with one 12 inch fan that pulls and 1 10 inch fan in the front that pushes air. Get a vented hood, you willl thank me later. If you are smart purchase a used OEM hood and take it to a shop and have custom vents done. Believe me, I can run my ac in 90 degree heat, while in bumper to bumper traffic without my temp gauge moving.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
13,157 Posts
I use Ngk's also and I do recommend changing them often I really depends on how often you drive it. Also you live in FL, what type of rad are you using? I have a full size koyo rad shoe horned in to my car with one 12 inch fan that pulls and 1 10 inch fan in the front that pushes air. Get a vented hood, you willl thank me later. If you are smart purchase a used OEM hood and take it to a shop and have custom vents done. Believe me, I can run my ac in 90 degree heat, while in bumper to bumper traffic without my temp gauge moving.
that is definitely key; the vented hood. you'd be suprised at how monstrous of a difference a vented hood makes, especially if the vents are placed in specific spots to help cool the radiator, and especially when a half rad is used.
one time i had to cut a big hole in the hood AND the bumper of an integra just to get enough airflow to cool the radiator. like 65 degree air temps and the thing would overheat just cruising. the intercooler covered the entire bumper hole in the front, and a half rad was used. it was get very minimal fresh airflow, and the air that the single fan was pulling through the radiator was just circulating it at the turbo mani, back into the front bumper, and back through the radiator again, obviously doing nothing for cooling. a hole in the hood and a hole in the bumper later, and you could run every accessory, boost the snot out of it, and then immediately creep in bumper to bumper traffic and the needle would never budge. its all about FRESH airflow to the radiator, and having it directed in a fashion that encourages more fresh airflow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok... yah im using a civic half radiator from mishimoto.
Cf hood, which sits kinda loosely... im thinking of puttin washers in the end of it, so it could let some air out. I dont got ac or ps. And i think i put the wrong oil in today...
Royal Purple 5w30 Race Oil... 2 thin huh?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,038 Posts
Id be worried bout water getting into things under my hood, otherwise id want an evo cf hood
Posted via Mobile
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
Ok... yah im using a civic half radiator from mishimoto.
Cf hood, which sits kinda loosely... im thinking of puttin washers in the end of it, so it could let some air out. I dont got ac or ps. And i think i put the wrong oil in today...
Royal Purple 5w30 Race Oil... 2 thin huh?
Half size... I don;t know mate. For drag maybe, but if this thing is a daily in FL... you might have some problems. How much boost are you making?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
Id be worried bout water getting into things under my hood, otherwise id want an evo cf hood
Posted via Mobile
The exact reason why I didn't get one.

Just make sure you wrap your dp, and wastegate dump. A coated manifold will with the heat as well. I don't have problems in my car on an extremely hot summer day. Obviously it gets heat soaked, but I don't go racing around on those days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,106 Posts
Ok... yah im using a civic half radiator from mishimoto.
Cf hood, which sits kinda loosely... im thinking of puttin washers in the end of it, so it could let some air out. I dont got ac or ps. And i think i put the wrong oil in today...
Royal Purple 5w30 Race Oil... 2 thin huh?
Quit being a girl. I wouldnt have got you something if it didnt work. DOUCHE.

Half size... I don;t know mate. For drag maybe, but if this thing is a daily in FL... you might have some problems. How much boost are you making?
I have the same setup as him except bigger turbo. Mine doesnt ever over heat even when it was mid 80's-low 90's. I have the fan set to kick on at certain temps. Plus i have my dump tube heat wrapped and down pipe heat wrapped. I would at least do those 2 things.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
13,157 Posts
the heat from the turbo piping isnt the main concern when using a half sized radiator.
the actual airflow through the radiator is the concern; where the air comes from and where the air goes.
an intercooler blocks the bumper vent that feeds the radiator by quite a bit, and what does get through gets heated a bit. so now the "fresh" air getting to the front of the rad is already hotter than ambient temp. but its a low amount of actual airflow. so the rad has to get more air from somewhere, and it usually pulls it from behind the bumper. and that air typically comes from the other side where there isnt a radiator anymore. and that air comes from whats already passed through the radiator and is already superheated, and past the turbo components which is heated even more.

overheating with a half sized isnt caused by having too small of a radiator, usually. its caused by having hotter tham ambient air going through it. so there's a need to get cooler air to the front of it, and more of it, and after the air passes through it there needs to be a way to prevent it from circulating back around to the front again. ie: a hole in the bumper and a hole in the hood and a shield on the side of the radiator to prevent circulation back around
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top