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There is a fairly useful trick where you take off the castle nut, put a wrench or something between the LCA and knuckle on the inside next to the joint, and jump on the knuckle a bit.

You can find pictures of it on H-T probably.
 

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Remove the castle nut, thread it on upside down (to protect the threads on the ball joint), then you can use a pittman arm puller to remove the knuckle from the LCA (and UCA).

I usually use a long flat bar about 1/8" thick to keep the pittman arm puller from rotating as you tighten it and to protect the end of the ball joint. Beware that sometimes it takes a LOT of pressure to get the ball joint to pop free. Sounds like a gun going off when it finally lets loose. I've never had a pittman arm puller break, but a friend did have one shatter when he was using. He had to change his pants afterward. :p
 

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I think I found a new way of breaking the lower ball joint free, but I don't suggest it. I had a buddy working with me on my 3rd gen, and when I rebuilt the engine we had to pull the transmission and axles, to do this my buddy unbolted the castle nut on the ball joints, couldn't get it to break free, and so reinstalled the castle nut loosely. He then removed the strut/spring from that side of the car to free the axle.

...engine gets rebuilt, car is finally running, my friend is gone...

I get everything reassembled, but through all of this I miss the loose castle nut. I put the tires on, and finally lower the car, and drive it out of the work area to it's parking spot. As I'm turning out of the work area I hear a loud bang, and immediately stop and check. I end up finding out that the ball joint was freed from the LCA, but still connected because the bolt was threaded halfway up the rod of the ball joint.

Sooo yea leaving the nut on the rod and allowing the suspension to travel popped the ball joint free with ease heh. I don't recommend that method though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Remove the castle nut, thread it on upside down (to protect the threads on the ball joint), then you can use a pittman arm puller to remove the knuckle from the LCA (and UCA).

I usually use a long flat bar about 1/8" thick to keep the pittman arm puller from rotating as you tighten it and to protect the end of the ball joint. Beware that sometimes it takes a LOT of pressure to get the ball joint to pop free. Sounds like a gun going off when it finally lets loose. I've never had a pittman arm puller break, but a friend did have one shatter when he was using. He had to change his pants afterward. :p
thanks bro! where do i buy a pittman arm puller?
 

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You might be young for a while but hopefully you don't stay dumb for long and learn from the forum! :D

So just a few tips: there's a newbie thread for simple questions; the archive is packed with good threads and resources; try making your thread titles more succinct. (I went ahead and changed it for you.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You might be young for a while but hopefully you don't stay dumb for long and learn from the forum! :D

So just a few tips: there's a newbie thread for simple questions; the archive is packed with good threads and resources; try making your thread titles more succinct. (I went ahead and changed it for you.)
hahahah i appreciate it bro! and im trying!
 

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yeah i rented one from auto zone, but last night i sprayed wd-40 around the ball joint and it only took like 2 rotations with the pittman arm puller, i didnt need a hammer or leverage pipe. it came off really easy lol.
Good deal. I've had some come out that easy, but I've also had some that required so much pressure that I was really scared turning the wrench further because the friggin pittman arm puller was under so much pressure. When it finally let loose, you'd swear a gun went off. :lol:
 
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