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OILCOUNTRYMODERATOR
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Discussion Starter #1
anybody wanna share?

wants the intake valve clearance and the exaust valve clearance
 

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Hmmm, thats a tough one beacuse he has motor work, head work and a reground cam. It would depend whether he had the block decked at all, how much the head was shaved and the lift on his Colt stage II cam.
 

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DCOE45Z
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ryan whats your # i HAVE to call u man, im so frustrated!!!!

I just got back from the shop, we're gonna tune it together this weekend. He is adament that 40mm chokes are TOO big for the size of engine i have dammit. Its so difficult when someone is almost 60 years old and you try to tell them how to do something that they love and have done for years.

Like deja vu alll over again from last year, im sure you guys are right but i need something that will change his mind. what was rich mentioning in the other thread about the size of the intake valves??
 

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choke size

well get him to run a 36mm which is what should be the recommended size and then switch it to a 40mm or 41mm if the 41mm is less powerfull you have to pay him if the 40-41mm is more powerfull he has tune it for free!! alternative is to just setup the webers the same as me and that should get you upto pretty much the same powerband as what i'm on, with your cams, headwork, exhaust anything smaller than 40mm is going to kill the power i would even suggest getting them enlarged like i have even if it's an extra 1mm mine are near enough 42mm but are a pain to machine i think Weber use to make 41mm or you can get 40mm and polish the inside of them and re-profile the lip on the outside edge to improve flow, theirs loads of little tweeks you can do to modify the carbs, countersunk screws on the butterfly's which are ground flush with spindle, removinf casting flash on the internal components etc.
Main Jet sizes should be around 145-155 (150 is pretty good all round) Main emulsion tube F16 seems to work best with air corrector anywhere between 160-190 depending on the main jet size and cam duration as yours is a tri flow which i still think is not a wise move for your head, i'd say from my experience that a 180-190 would work better with a normal grind with say 275-285 duration a 165-170 would work better but the only way to find out is to rolling road it trying each one can take a day to do but once you've tried every variable and settle on the best one your done and won't need changing untill you alter the specs of the engine, only thing they may need altering would be the balance between the carbs.

BTW Is the inlet manifold all matched upto the head and carbs?

doh forgot to mention valve clearances
Depends on if engine is running hot from being lean or Rich and how hot the outside temperature is hotter bigger clearance colder smaller, there's not a wrong really depends how rattly you want it.

i run mine normally at inlet 0.25mm exhaust and 0.20mm inlet but thats on valves that are bigger and same material, with yours i would go with 0.15mm inlet and 0.25mm exhaust should be a bit quieter, when it gets hotter go upto 0.20mm inlet and 0.30mm exhaust

hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #6
although trav has this frustration there are a couple differences from last year and this year...1 the guy we delt with alst year didn't know a damn thing and this guy does...2 if things don't go the way this tech wants after he tunes it the first time with his sizes i would put money on it that he would be more then willing to try going bigger...the impression that ive gotten from him ( when i can understand what hes saying) is that he is in the business of making power but not at the expence of your motor and thus your wallet...
 

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DCOE45Z
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thanks rich, thats awesome!

Yes, rod matched the intake mani to the carbs last year so that should be ok.

good idea, on getting him to tune it. if he is an noble guy he'll have no problem tuning it for free im sure!

If not, theres always plan "C" hey Ryan :Rock:

I'll pay for your ticket up here, house+beer+green whatever :)
But we'll cross that bridge when I have to...hopefully not though, id like to show up in calgary in a few weeks for a visit :smilejap:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
KidSupreme said:
"I'll pay for your ticket up here, house+beer+green whatever"

Damn! I should come visit your ass Trav! Hahaha
haha im not sure what part of the states your from but if your lookin to try some real western canadian green bring your ass up here...not to mention some real beer...
 

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everyone knows bc buds the best!!

i definatley support the "get him to run a 36mm which is what should be the recommended size and then switch it to a 40mm or 41mm if the 41mm is less powerfull you have to pay him if the 40-41mm is more powerfull he has tune it for free!!"
 

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choke sizes

if it produces less power than 40mm chokes theirs something seriously wrong with Trav's engine!!
There's allways going to be a trade off the engine will be a little less responsive low down but boy when you hit 3-4000rpm it's gonna scream and take off like a cat on fire!!
 

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True that!!
 

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chokes

yep but nobody seems to listen to us :0(
Looking at some high output N/A engines 40-45mm is about right i don't think that these guy's believe the real tuning potential of these engines and they just dismiss them as soon as they see it's a SOHC and only 12 valves plus being over twenty years old it must be pre-historic so is bound to be crap, man you should see some of the British tank engines from WW2 based on the merlin that was used in spitfire and Mustangs they were awesome had V12 quad overhead camshafts with 4 valves per cylinder with massive quad SU sidedraughts and that was back in the forties!!
Don't forget Honda had allready been racing and winning in Formula one back in the late sixties so they know a thing or two about engine design!! You'd never get 200+BHP from a 2.0l Ford or GM engine from the early eighties!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ya the very first 350 small put out somthing like 205 hp
 
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