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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm working on replacing the timing belt today. I got everything done up to the point of removing the crank bolt. I put my two drill bits in the rigging holes into the cams to keep them at TDC. I started turning the crank bolt to get the pulley off and I heard a popping noise like the bolt starting to come loose. I pushed a little harder and I heard a piece of metal hit the ground.

My fucking drill bits broke and busted right through the eyelets on both camshaft holders. WTF. Was I doing something wrong? I was turning the bolt counter-clockwise. Am I supposed to turn it clockwise to get it off?

Looks like this replacement will have to go on hold until I can replace those two cam holders, correct?

I also think my intake cam might have slipped a tooth in the process. I don't know how since the belt is still completely tight but if it did, am I in a world of shit at this point? Or can I loosen the timing belt tensioner, rotate the camshaft back to where it needs to be, and tighten the tensioner again?

Thanks. This blows.
 

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Are the drill bits just stuck down there because they are to short? maybe try a magnet or really small drill bit, drill in a bit and pull it out.

Also, You were right turning the crankshaft counter clock wise, Im going to take it you were doing it by hand. Sometimes a little tricky

If you have access to a airgun use that. Because its moving so fast and the hammering effect it has usually takes the bolt right off and dosent turn the belt(which is what made your drillbits break)

You could also have someone hold a pry bar agaisnt the teeth in the flywheel if you are trying to take the bolt out using hand tools.

I dont think the tooth jumping is going to negatively affect anything. Once its all apart, set the 2 cams and crank to TDC and Throw the new belt on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, thanks. I got the drill bits out and found the pieces (each one snapped in half) so that's good. I think my problem was that the drill bits weren't large enough to be snug. There was a little bit of play and I believe that allowed them to rotate and snap.

I'm going to go to Advance Auto and see if they can get me the cam holders ASAP so I can get this finished this weekend. I'll try having someone stick something long between the teeth on the flywheel too. I wish I had access to airtools but I don't.

I still need to set the cams back to TDC right? If one of them jumped a tooth, how do I get both of them back to TDC? Should I just rotate the crank to the exhaust side being TDC, put a drill bit in that, cut off the timing belt, fix the intake cam, and then put a drill bit there?

Thanks for the help.
 

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just cut the old belt off, it dosent matter.

The cams are set to tdc when you can drop the pins in, if one moves, spin it until it the arrow is up. Also make sure that the flywheel is set to T and your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well it looks like I'm going to have to order the parts online. I can't seem to find them on Majestic Honda though. They're not listed as a part on this picture:



Does anyone have a part # or a place to order them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah. I need the two cam holders with the eyelets on them. They would be the ones closest to the "front" of the engine (timing side).
 

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This is what happens if you do engine work based solely on forum posts.

No one has mentioned yet that you are absolutely NOT supposed to use the drill bit-in-cam method for loosening or tightening the crank or cam bolts!

Here is the online manual with the proper timing belt procedure:
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/PreludeManual/index.html


You can't buy new cam caps because each set of caps is machined and made specifically for the head they came with. Are yours still usable other than the holes where the bits were?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My cam caps are still perfectly useable other than using them to hold the camshafts at TDC.

I have the entire manual downloaded and did read through it but I also referenced the posts on here. I just checked my Haynes manual and realize that I should have followed that instead. Sticking something between the flywheel teeth is the only way to remove the bolt, correct? Ahhhhh, I just read further into the Haynes manual and see where I went wrong. Well, I guess I learned my lesson.

Currently, the cams have been rotated over 1/4 from TDC with the intake cam being rotated 1 tooth more. Am I going to harm anything if I rotate the crank to get the exhaust cam to TDC and the intake cam 1 tooth off? Is the tolerance too low?

Thanks for the assistance, MustardCat.
 

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Sticking something in the flywheel, the factory crank pulley holder, or a chain wrench on the crank pulley are good ways to hold it. Course my favorite is to simply use an impact gun. ;-)

Just keep using your current caps then, no biggie. You can bar it around as it is I believe, if you hit resistance just go the other way. There's not much to worry about though, you really have to try to bend valves barring it by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, MustardCat.

I really should thank you more. Your website (Prelude3G) has helped me more times than I can count. You are a staple to the 3G community. :)
 

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As tight as that bolt is, (I fought 2 days trying to get mine off even with an Impact) I'd be afraid to put any type of screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. Can you imagine if you broke a tooth off? Tranny pull time!
 

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As tight as that bolt is, (I fought 2 days trying to get mine off even with an Impact) I'd be afraid to put any type of screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. Can you imagine if you broke a tooth off? Tranny pull time!

Orrrr.......... just remove the dust cover on the bottom,

No risk involved
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What would removing the dust cover on the bottom accomplish? If you broke a tooth off, you're still screwed.

How much force can the flywheel teeth take?
 

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enough force that a electric stater motor can bang on the teath and bring them to 500RPMS all of a sudden...

so more force then you can humanly exert on them...
 

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you know... you could be a cool kid like me and do it the cool way.

the way im speaking of is drop the car on its tires and turn the wheel all the way to the left, put the car in first gear with the E brake on, then try and bust loose the bolt, the crank is connected to the clutch, which is connected to the trany which is connected to the wheels.

this will alow you to break loose the bolt without the whole motor turning over, or damaging the camshafts in the process.

make sense? or do you need ultra lamens terms..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is there really enough room to get a wrench on the crank bolt though? It sounds like a good idea except I would imagine it's tough to get leverage.
 

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Is there really enough room to get a wrench on the crank bolt though? It sounds like a good idea except I would imagine it's tough to get leverage.
Yes there would be a big leverage problem, but it has been done before, it all depends on how persistant and creative you get when doing it this way.
 
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