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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A while ago, i had my prelude's SS tranny rebuilt. I got it done from a guy i was reffered to by my uncle, $1800 for the rebuild. and $250 for a new "shift selenoid"?

Anyways, the other day i went to take my car in for servicing, and he just got the car in there, comes back and the guy tells me my tranny has a leak. I just looked at him thinking F$%#! I called up the guy who rebuilt my transmission, "its out of the warranty period". So at that point im thinking, wow i'm in for my second 2nd tranny rebuild in less than a few months already?

The next day, (first cold morning of the summer) i went to drive it and when i shifted into reverse it waited 2 seconds then proceeded to "slam" itself into reverse. Put it into drive and the same deal. Waited a few minutes, let the car warm up, put it back in Reverse, small "slam". Put it in drive and was semi-smooth. For the first few shifts it was kinda rough, then proceeded to shift smoother then it ever has for the rest of the day. Yesterday morning, same deal. Tried starting it up when its hot outside, works fine. So basically, on a cold day with a cold start, its not working right at the beginning. But if i start the car up from a cold start when its hot outside, nothing happens. Wtf gives?

Then i checked the fluid, fluid looks clean, no sign of any internal problems from the color of it, BUT what do i notice? The tranny is OVERfilled. I checked two more times, even ran the car a bit and tried again, and sure enough its overfilled. So im thinking the excess pressure built up inside and blew out a/some seal(s).

What other kinda damage could this have done? I wanna kno because im driving it right back to him to get it all fixed, warranty or not, how do you overfill the tranny like that?! I didn't pay $1800 for someone to redo the tranny and then overfill it for me. (and i know nobody has added any trans fluid since the rebuild)
 

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A while ago, i had my prelude's SS tranny rebuilt. I got it done from a guy i was reffered to by my uncle, $1800 for the rebuild. and $250 for a new "shift selenoid"?

Anyways, the other day i went to take my car in for servicing, and he just got the car in there, comes back and the guy tells me my tranny has a leak. I just looked at him thinking F$%#! I called up the guy who rebuilt my transmission, "its out of the warranty period". So at that point im thinking, wow i'm in for my second 2nd tranny rebuild in less than a few months already?

The next day, (first cold morning of the summer) i went to drive it and when i shifted into reverse it waited 2 seconds then proceeded to "slam" itself into reverse. Put it into drive and the same deal. Waited a few minutes, let the car warm up, put it back in Reverse, small "slam". Put it in drive and was semi-smooth. For the first few shifts it was kinda rough, then proceeded to shift smoother then it ever has for the rest of the day. Yesterday morning, same deal. Tried starting it up when its hot outside, works fine. So basically, on a cold day with a cold start, its not working right at the beginning. But if i start the car up from a cold start when its hot outside, nothing happens. Wtf gives?

Then i checked the fluid, fluid looks clean, no sign of any internal problems from the color of it, BUT what do i notice? The tranny is OVERfilled. I checked two more times, even ran the car a bit and tried again, and sure enough its overfilled. So im thinking the excess pressure built up inside and blew out a/some seal(s).

What other kinda damage could this have done? I wanna kno because im driving it right back to him to get it all fixed, warranty or not, how do you overfill the tranny like that?! I didn't pay $1800 for someone to redo the tranny and then overfill it for me. (and i know nobody has added any trans fluid since the rebuild)

Well if it makes any difference, the whole BANG thing seems pretty normal with all SS preludes (including mines), it's embarrassing more then anything...

I always warm up the car for a minute, and while at first the car seems to get a sudden jump in the first/second gear when im first driving.... its like you said, it shifts perfect afterwards...

there was a time when my tranny made HORRIBLE bangs into gears, its the equivalent of a shotgun being blasted (yes serious) but for some reason everything went back to normal... was a while ago too, weird?...

I have a re built tranny myself as well...
 

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I know what you mean about the SLAM into gear. $1800 for a rebuild?? $250 for a new "shift solenoid"!?!? I know what your problem is, just that... solenoids! When I accidentally disconnected one, it did the same thing. Scary.They are located on the outside of the transmission, i'll load up the helms PDF scan of how to test. It seems to me that they are full of gunk, as the engine heats the gunk becomes soft and lets you shift. Brb.
EDIT:

Helms: 14-102 and on




 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I know what you mean about the SLAM into gear. $1800 for a rebuild?? $250 for a new "shift solenoid"!?!? I know what your problem is, just that... solenoids! When I accidentally disconnected one, it did the same thing. Scary.They are located on the outside of the transmission, i'll load up the helms PDF scan of how to test. It seems to me that they are full of gunk, as the engine heats the gunk becomes soft and lets you shift. Brb.
EDIT:

Helms: 14-102 and on
Wow. thanks AGAIN Rom, your always saving my a$$!! :thumbs-up:
id rep you but it says i can't cause i recently did!
 

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Forgot to mention, are you getting a AT CEL? The way i believe it works (way ive tried it) is that the computer checks for a resistance across the terminals of the solenoids. if its open, then BAM AT CEL! If its ok with resistance, then no AT CEL but that doesnt mean that its automatically good. You should get each solenoid individually and check it out, it might not even be moving (hence the SLAM into gear).

Buy a multimeter, ive found the cheapy $7 at the swapmeet one good. You can run tests on the cable by the ECU too. LEt me know if ya need help
 

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For $2,050 you could have just about had a manual swap done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Forgot to mention, are you getting a AT CEL? The way i believe it works (way ive tried it) is that the computer checks for a resistance across the terminals of the solenoids. if its open, then BAM AT CEL! If its ok with resistance, then no AT CEL but that doesnt mean that its automatically good. You should get each solenoid individually and check it out, it might not even be moving (hence the SLAM into gear).

Buy a multimeter, ive found the cheapy $7 at the swapmeet one good. You can run tests on the cable by the ECU too. LEt me know if ya need help
No AT CEL's are showing up as of yet, one came up but it was o2 sensor. I think you know a lot more then even my transmission guy does, maybe i should just take the car to you to be looked at haha.

For $2,050 you could have just about had a manual swap done!
I would have loved to do the manual swap, but unfortunately my car HAS to be driven by people who can only drive automatic!
 
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