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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, I'm getting sick and tired of seeing 10 new threads asking about jdm fogs each and every day. I'm sure many of you have the same questions so I am creating this thread so we can stop this madness. If we can keep this thread clean of bs, we might be able to get it stickied. If you have a question you want to ask, post here. If you have an answer to a question, post here. If you just want to throw down your .02 cents then, post here. I'll try to answer as many questions but I don't know everything so I'll definitely be needing help. I'm thinking about organizing the information in a Q&A type format. If you guys have any suggestions or thoughts, just let me know.

Here's a little teaser for all you nonjdmfogs-haver:


RHD Pimpin
10,152 Posts
You're right, there seems to be at least 2-3 that pop up each week

852 Posts
All the shinoobies have to search! I am sub zero cuz m too cool!!
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1,252 Posts
I <3 JDM threads!

2,494 Posts
Official JDM Foglight Question: Did you know JDM fogs are fucking sick?

Official JDM Foglight, Light-Output Shot:

Netzyo98 of fame said:

It looks long, but it has detailed pictures (52 to be exact) so you really don’t have to read the whole write up. All you’d have to do is look at the PICTURES, yeah!

Approximate time: 15-mins to 1-hr (Depending on your mechanical/electrical skills)

Tools Needed:

Light (maybe)
Medium size Flat (-) screwdriver
Ratchet w/ 10mm
Long Extension
Cutting pliers (Dykes)
Big Phillips (+) screwdriver
Rag (not pictured)
Small Phillips (+) screwdriver

First thing you should do is disconnect the battery. (I did not, and didn’t have any problems.) If you do disconnect your battery ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE SET THE BRIGHTNESS OF YOUR DASH TO HOW YOU WANT IT, using the dimmer switch. Which we will later relocate!

Alright now, remove your Front covers where the Fog lights will go. (I already had my Lights in, so no covers. But you get the picture. If you want you can use a rag with the flat head screwdriver so you don’t mess them all up or scratch them anymore.)

Next, remove the turn signals. You need to loosen or remove (which ever is easier, I removed it all the way) the screw that holds them into place:

Using a long enough screwdriver unscrew both your left and right turn signals. Then remove them from the bumper (You might need to use a rag with the flat head screwdriver so you don’t scratch the lights to pull them out):

After you remove your turn signals you should see this:

Now, looking at your front bumper and looking into the right hole you should find a single connector that is along the harness for the front turn signal. And looks like this:

Now what you need to do is take the harness for the fog lights and run it behind your bumper. Keeping in mind that the end with one connector goes to the RIGHT of the bumper as you are looking at it, and the other end with the 2 connectors goes on the LEFT side of the bumper so you can connect it to that one connector we saw earlier coming from the car. And then the GROUND wire will be right in the middle of the radiator support. Should look something like this, if not cleaner:

Make sure the Ground is nice and secured, you might need to sand the paint down a little bit, so you can get a GOOD Ground!

Also, ensure you secure or zip-tie the harness to the vehicle one way or the other as best as possible to keep it from bouncing around.

Now MAKE SURE YOU HOOK UP this connector or your lights will never received the power to turn on. (This is that one connector we saw earlier on the right side of the bumper along with the front turn signal harness.)

Now we are ready to hook up the Fog Light assemblies to the bumper. Ensure the brackets are on nice and tight:

Now Hook up the connector to the Fog Light Assembly, making sure its on nicely. When inserting the Fog Light Assembly into the BUMPER, making sure the bottom to prongs go into the holes in the bumper:

Now secure the Fog Light Assembly to the Bumper by using the screws supplied. (I didn’t have them, so I just zip-tied mine to the bumper.):

Repeat for other side.

Now we have to put the turn signals back on, in reverse order. MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT THEM, BY INSERTING THE BULB AND TURNING IT UNTIL IT LOCKS:

Now your front bumper should look something like this:

Now we have to connect the other harness supplied, inside of the car to the fuse panel. We’ll start by remove the Cruise, Sunroof and interior lighting switch panel. Grab your flat head screwdriver and rag. Pry of your panel. If some of the clips come off when you pull it out, simply just put them back on:

(This is where it comes in handy NOT to disconnect your battery in the beginning)
Before you disconnect the switches, first make sure that your lighting on your dash is as bright or dim as you want it. Because we are going to leave this switch connected, but behind the dash.

Now that you have set the brightness of your dash set, you need to remove the dimmer switch from the panel and replace it with your JDM Fog light switch.

Remove the Fuse box cover:

Now, run the Harness behind the dash thru the hole (where the switches were) and they should come out the bottom by the fuse panel. Then end that connects to the switch should obviously be at the top. And the end that has 4 connectors (including the one for the relay) should be towards the fuse box.

You need to Bolt down the relay, supply a ground and connect the other 3 connectors.

First find a place for the relay. (I put mine right behind the bolt that holds the dash.) You can also use the bolt that holds the lever that opens the hood. (The hood release bolt.)

Now remove the bolt you have decided to use:

I used this one:

After removing or loosening the bolt, I then place the Relay and the ground in the same spot:

Now, as for the rest of the harness. You should have left 2 square connectors and 1 single connector.

Grab the single connector that is left and hook it up with the wire connector from the CAR. This wire is up in the far right hand corner of the fuse box along with a whole bunch of other wires. You should be able to find it, look for it, its there!

Now connecting the other 2 square connectors, put them in the free spot that your fuse panel has, look at pic:

And all these last 3 connectors should look like this:

So you now have to install the Switch panel. This is fairly easy to do, being that each plug can pretty much only go in one place.

Alright so you should still have this one plug from the harness sticking out somewhere:

But you should also have the original 3 connectors on the side too:

Now connect the plug that was supposed to be for the Dimmer switch, directly to the dimmer switch. And slide the Dimmer switch, connected and already pre-set to the Brightness that you wanted (so don’t mess too much with it) behind the dash. As it will just hang, back there behind the dash now.

All we have to do now, is connect the other three switches with the appropriate connectors. Then slip the switch panel back into the dash.

After you have everything hooked up, its time to test. If you disconnected your battery in the beginning, connect it back up.

Put the key in the ignition. Press your buttons make sure the light comes up for Cruise Control. Then make sure your sunroof opens and closes. And lastly make sure the light comes on your JDM Fog light switch.

Then all you have to do is turn your parking lights ON and your JDM Fog lights should illuminate. Ensure that the Fog light switch is DEPRESSED and Light is Illuminated:

Now after you have completed and tested your lights make sure you put your fuse panel cover back on in the reverse order you took it off.

If Lights did not turn on, check the following:

1. Did you remember to hook back the battery?
2. Turned on parking lights? (They need to be on for the Fog lights to work)
2. Did you hook up the exterior wire harness correctly to the Fog lights?

3. Did you get a good ground on the exterior wire harness?
4. Is the orange connector from the exterior harness connected to the orange wire behind the bumper nice and tight? (Make sure it snaps in place)
5. Is the orange connector from the INTERIOR harness connected nice and tight to the orange wire inside the car, the one up in the far corner by the fuses? (Make sure it snaps in place)
6. Is the relay plugged into the interior wire harness?
7. Do you have a good ground (of the interior harness) behind the dash or to the hood release bolt? Is it secure?
8. Are the 2 brown square connectors in the right spot they should be?
9. Are the switches plugged in?
10. Make sure the fuse on the interior harness, by the relay, is still good)

Now Remember, I am not liable for anything that might go wrong while you are installing these lights. This is simply for reference! Hope many of you find this helpful and give prop's anytime you use it!
---------------------------------Joey-----AIM: Lu98de-------------------------------​

I thought we should also have this information in this one spot to help condense things. hopefully people still refer to this first page.
edge2lyfe / "Jacob Ung" said:
WRITE UP: Use JDM fogs with USDM switch.
A disadvantage of installing the JDM foglight kit is that you sacrifice one of the switches in the three switch cluster. Most common is eliminating the dimmer control.

With this "How To" you'll replace the factory switch holder with the switch holder that is provided in the USDM foglight kit. The JDM fog switch will also be replaced by the USDM switch. You do not need to purchase the USDM foglight kit for this modification, only certain components.

JDM foglight switch to USDM switch conversion:

This conversion is for the fifth generation Honda Prelude. It facilitates the use of a USDM fog light switch & bezel with the ever popular JDM fog lights and wiring harenesses; which allows one to not lose the use of a switch as using a JDM switch requires. This modification assumes that you have already installed your JDM fog lights, JDM exterior and interior harnesses. This method is by far the simplest method to modifing your JDM interior harness. This method will also allow one to easily revert back to using the JDM switch. It took longer to create these instructions than performing the modification. Should take about 10 to 15 minutes.

One draw back is that the green fog lamp indicator on the USDM switch will be on when the switch has power going to it. In other words the indicator lamp will show when the fog lights have the power capability to turn on rather than showing that the fog lights are actually on. So if you selected your fog lights to have the ability to turn on when you turn the ignition to the on position (accessory connection #1), the indicator will come on at that time. It is better to have your fog lights and indicator light come on when the parking and dash lights are on (accessory connection #2).

Parts & Materials Required:
  • USDM fog light switch 08V31-S30-1M009
  • USDM switch holder 08V31-S30-100R2
  • USDM switch blank cover 08V31-S30-100R3
  • two male spade or bullet connectors (Red = 18-22 awg)
  • two insulated female spade or bullet connectors (Red = 18-22 awg)
  • electrician's tape
Tools Required:
  • flathead screwdriver (-)
  • phillips screwdriver (+)
  • wire cutter or strong sharp scissors
  • wire stripper
  • wire crimping tool sharp knife or rotary tool
  • shop towel
Here are two photos that compare the USDM (left) and JDM (right) switches. No modifications to the switches are required. These photos are for your reference only. This main difference with the two switches is the orientation. The JDM switch resides vertically, while the USDM switch resides horizontally. The fog light icon on the JDM switch lights up with your dash lights while the USDM one does not. The rear of the switches have also different shaped molex plugs. They are almost the same which makes the modification simple.

STEP ONE: Locate the green molex on your JDM interior harness. If you have previously installed the JDM switch, you will have the remove the switch cluster containing the fog light switch. Use a flathead screwdriver wrapped with a shop towel to do this. Then remove all the molexes from their switches. Do not remove the harness from your car as it is not necessary for this modification. (I took this photo when I was modifying my friend's harness).

STEP TWO: Remove the electrician's tape holding the wire loom to the wires. Use a pair of sharp scissors or a knife to remove about an inch and a half of the wire loom.

STEP THREE: There are five wires running into the green molex. Cut the second and fourth wires.

STEP FOUR: Use wire strippers to remove the insulation, and expose about a quarter of an inch of the copper wire four each of the four ends. Then use a crimping to crimp the connectors onto the wire. Make sure that the connectors are attached tightly.

STEP FIVE: Connect the connectors inversely, male of wire four to female of wire two and male of wire two to female of wire four. If you ever choose to use your JDM switch again, simply reverse the connectors again. Then wrap some electrician's tape around the connectors to hold them securely. Also tape the loom to the wires. This completes the wiring part.

STEP SIX: Now you have to trim one of the tabs of the green molex for it to fit into the USDM switch molex plug. With the tabs facing up and the connection end (not the wire end) facing towards you, you need to trim the rightmost tab. You can use a sharp knife or a rotary tool to do this. Simply trim the fat part of the right tab away as per the photo. Do this slowly so that you do not over cut. Test fit the molex to ensure that it fits into the USDM switch.

STEP SEVEN: Remove all your switches from the original bezel (switch holder). Then install the cruise control, sunroof and dimmer switches (from left to right) and the USDM foglight switch and blank plug cover into the new switch holder. Then connect all the molexes to their corresponding switches and install the new switch holder. Your modification is now complete.

Thanks to Jacob Ung for permission to use this info.

1,252 Posts
What are JDM fogs exactly?

339 Posts
mang, i got the replicas coming in soon and im scared to even attempt to put in any HID's . . . i like that 3000k HID look though, i dont really care to much bout the yellow-ness, but i just dont wanna finally get fogs in, then have the damn housing melt on my ass for havin HID's in them, anyone found a way to get around this problem witout buyin the authentics???

28 Posts
Oh man don't do the HID's in the replicas. I put in a 55W bulb in place of the 35W one and that melted the housings. They actually paid to ship them back. In the mean time I bought real ones and I would also like to know how to get the capsules for H3C's.
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337 Posts
omg sic lude 99..i love u
u are my best friend forever..i would kiss u if u were homo..thanks dude..a lot..ive only been looking for 1 month :)

Abscissa & Ordinate
5,098 Posts
omg sic lude 99..i love u
u are my best friend forever..i would kiss u if u were homo..thanks dude..a lot..ive only been looking for 1 month :)
I noticed that you didn't specify whether you wanted caps for HID's or just for halogens. The link sicclude posted are for caps for HID bulbs.
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