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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This member has scammed many members and non members. DO NOT contact him for services as he may not come through.

Please refer questions to these horror story threads.

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330206

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253370


due to the high volume of pm's i get from people with questions, i decided to just make a thread for the 3g crowd. often times the convo's i have in pm could be very beneficial to the community in learning, and in a thread would be able to be found in a search.

soooo, for anyone that has any form of technical questions they would like to direct towards me, that others could possibly learn from as well, post in here.
and i'd appreciate it if OT convo's did not occur here. any that begin, will get deleted.

ask away!
 

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There is a thread that Bryan_R made in General forum for Port and Polishing. You mind checking that out and giving us your wisdom?
 

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Motoxxxman,

88 Si lude, 5spd, b20a, pacesetter header, and exhaust, and short ram intake.

The problem is I am having poor fuel economy, like about 150miles per tank, I can smell the cat getting really hot, (rotten egg smell). I have no codes, I have replaced the IAT, and O2 sensors. I had the smog guy at work check the exhaust gases, and my a/f ratio is about 14.78 ish (can't remember exact, but very close) the smog guy said I dont really have a A/f problem, just very slightly rich. I connected a vacuum gauge, and I have a very steady needle at 21in of vac, and good vacuum response to revs, and holds proper vacuum at constant revs. The engine heats up normal so I don't suspect a t stat problem. I was thinking of checking Fuel pressure, and fuel pressure regulator, and if no indication there, then check fuel injector spray pattern.

Think I am on the right track, or have suggestions?

Thanks for your help.
 

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LMAO! OMG.

anyways, Moto, as you may know im trying to boost a B20a, got the only set of 81.5mm 8:1 pistons EVER! dont ask how, just recognize... im going to be running with my sick B21 head that will get slightly domed into the cylinder head for hopes of lowering CR, and gaining more room for more Air and Fuel, im having the head surface on the block decked down lower than the cylinder sleevs so that a crush point is made more so around the cylinders, and to top it off a sweet set of ARP head studs too of course, im trying to build this to handle 4 big pony's and not pop head gaskets.

with all that bullshit and money speant do you think i can get away without blowing a HG every time i punch it? and what are all the part numbers for the ARP head studs that i need? any place you know that makes a B20a copper HG?

and FYI 20PSI is the goal. 400+ as well. dont worry about oiling, i got that coverd.
 

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and dont worry about connecting rods/ crank.

but what are the best durable bearings for our bearing hungry motors?
 

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LMAO! OMG.

anyways, Moto, as you may know im trying to boost a B20a, got the only set of 81.5mm 8:1 pistons EVER! dont ask how, just recognize... im going to be running with my sick B21 head that will get slightly domed into the cylinder head for hopes of lowering CR, and gaining more room for more Air and Fuel, im having the head surface on the block decked down lower than the cylinder sleevs so that a crush point is made more so around the cylinders, and to top it off a sweet set of ARP head studs too of course, im trying to build this to handle 4 big pony's and not pop head gaskets.

with all that bullshit and money speant do you think i can get away without blowing a HG every time i punch it? and what are all the part numbers for the ARP head studs that i need? any place you know that makes a B20a copper HG?

and FYI 20PSI is the goal. 400+ as well. dont worry about oiling, i got that coverd.
That's a different approach, making room for more a/f mixture in the cylinders.

(subscribed)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Motoxxxman,

88 Si lude, 5spd, b20a, pacesetter header, and exhaust, and short ram intake.

The problem is I am having poor fuel economy, like about 150miles per tank, I can smell the cat getting really hot, (rotten egg smell). I have no codes, I have replaced the IAT, and O2 sensors. I had the smog guy at work check the exhaust gases, and my a/f ratio is about 14.78 ish (can't remember exact, but very close) the smog guy said I dont really have a A/f problem, just very slightly rich. I connected a vacuum gauge, and I have a very steady needle at 21in of vac, and good vacuum response to revs, and holds proper vacuum at constant revs. The engine heats up normal so I don't suspect a t stat problem. I was thinking of checking Fuel pressure, and fuel pressure regulator, and if no indication there, then check fuel injector spray pattern.

Think I am on the right track, or have suggestions?

Thanks for your help.
you've definitely done all the right things, but have more or less eliminated them all as possibilities. i wouldnt even bother checking the fuel pressure or regulator

the next 2 steps i would take is adjust the valve lash to spec, and adjust the ignition timing to stock timing exactly how i have it written in the writeup thread i made called "how to properly adjust the idle and ignition timing". and then find a store that sells Fireball Plus fuel injector cleaner and pick up a bottle. put 89 octane in and get to about half tank, and put the entire bottle of fuel injector cleaner in when you're at the half tank mark. then drive around a little aggressively, romping on it whenever you can as long as you feel the engine is healthy enough to do so, and dont put any more gas in until you're on E.

cleaning out the injectors like that is a precaution, but im guessing your main issue is simply that the valve lash is off and the ignition is either too retarded or too advanced, more likely too retarded.
valve lash being off will make the cylinders run unevenly, which causes a loss of power in itsself. ignition timing not set properly will definitely cause a large loss of part throttle power, and a decent loss in high throttle power.

lower power level requires pushing the gas pedal down further to get the acceleration you want, which obviously uses much more gas due to the higher manifold pressures.

at any point in time after doing the valve lash adjustment, a compression test would be a good idea as well to verify that all cyls have about equal and decent level compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
LMAO! OMG.

anyways, Moto, as you may know im trying to boost a B20a, got the only set of 81.5mm 8:1 pistons EVER! dont ask how, just recognize... im going to be running with my sick B21 head that will get slightly domed into the cylinder head for hopes of lowering CR, and gaining more room for more Air and Fuel, im having the head surface on the block decked down lower than the cylinder sleevs so that a crush point is made more so around the cylinders, and to top it off a sweet set of ARP head studs too of course, im trying to build this to handle 4 big pony's and not pop head gaskets.

with all that bullshit and money speant do you think i can get away without blowing a HG every time i punch it? and what are all the part numbers for the ARP head studs that i need? any place you know that makes a B20a copper HG?

and FYI 20PSI is the goal. 400+ as well. dont worry about oiling, i got that coverd.
in short, you're going to be very disappointed with the results. doing all that is going to give you a compression ratio in the 7's. you'd be lucky to make 300hp at 20psi with even the most efficient turbo imaginable. not to mention part throttle is going to be slower than a geo with cracked pistons lol.
decking the block enough to bring the compression back up to normal numbers would put the piston rings in the head gasket, or really really close. it would also put the pistons into the head on the edges.
plain and simple, not possible.

there are a few head stud threads describing everything needed, should be in the faq, or a quick search

raceeng.com sells a copper hg for our ludes, but the only way they will seal properly is if you have the block AND head o-ringed, and use a proper rubber coating on the entire gasket to seal the oil and coolant passages

for bearings, eom honda, or ACL, or ACL race (mains only), or King. i've recently discovered through neonxiii's h23 build that King bearings are practically indestructable, but because of that the crank will actually wear instead of the bearings and thats not something im fond of. id rather change bearings out than change a crank out.
so my reccomendation is the same as what i used in my black 3g; ACL Race main bearings, and standard duraglide ACL bearings for the rods and thrust washers. they can take a beating and a half and laugh, but will still wear before the crank wears
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
and im not kidding about the off topic and bogus posts. dont spam up my thread with wasted space. the next person to do it will get an official site warning with points
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
pdx now has points for going OT even after me repeating not to and that the next person would get points. he was also vulgar, offensive to me, and insulting of someone else.
hell, i may even change my mind and just go straight for the temp ban. who's next?

keep it on topic or get the fuck out

*edit* yup, changed my mind. pdx88lude is gone for 10 days. he broke 3 rules at one time, which is enough for a 10 day temp ban
 

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what needs to be done in the block to fix oiling problems and be able to safely rev higher? i'm not looking to build a screamer, but i'd like to have some extra insurance...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
what needs to be done in the block to fix oiling problems and be able to safely rev higher? i'm not looking to build a screamer, but i'd like to have some extra insurance...
for the oiling, honestly, nothing. people just need to stop revving engines that have worn out bearings lol.
if you wanted to improve the oiling system though, a custom girdle would need to be made with even angles in the ports, chamfered edges at all the angles, all 90 degree bends or less in the ports, and larger diameter ports wouldnt hurt as the actual oil flow is controlled by the size of the holes in the bearings and main caps. shimming the oil pump relief valve with a single thin washer bumps the oil pressure up a bit as well.

to be able to safely rev higher, you would need to: use slightly longer rods with custom pistons that place the wrist pins the same amount higher as the rods are longer, ie: use h22 rods with custom pistons, and would need to use a different head as the rockers in our motors like to jump out of place and/or crack when the engine gets overrevved; and thats a problem with the rocker design and weight, not a valve spring tension problem
 

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Moto:


Why do most people go with the #13 web cam grind and not the #115? I've seen slot of people have n/a setups and they use the #13, but wouldn't the #115 net more hp and trq gain?
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Moto:


Why do most people go with the #13 web cam grind and not the #115? I've seen slot of people have n/a setups and they use the #13, but wouldn't the #115 net more hp and trq gain?
Posted via Mobile
yes the 115 gains more peak tq and peak hp, and gains a great deal of power overall in the higher rpms, more of a gain than the 13 does compared to stock and with the powerband being higher in the rpms than the 13. but the 115 grind also causes a loss of power in low rpms up to around 3k rpms or so, which a lot of people are not very fond of for a DD due to the worse gas mileage and lower amount of torque in those lower rpms that are most often used in regular type driving
 

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Oil pan

I was considering the Moroso 20903 dry sump oil pan. It is not specifically made for our beloved Prelude but it might fit so that I could run a larger exhaust pipe for a turbo.

What are some of the considerations I should be worried about when running dry sump? Pump pickup?

And if possible do you know if pan would fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was considering the Moroso 20903 dry sump oil pan. It is not specifically made for our beloved Prelude but it might fit so that I could run a larger exhaust pipe for a turbo.

What are some of the considerations I should be worried about when running dry sump? Pump pickup?

And if possible do you know if pan would fit?
no clue if the pan would fit. you really wont find anything that will be higher up for using a larger exhaust pipe though, the stock oil pan is already barely half an inch away from the windage tray. any higher and itd be in the windage tray. pretty much all hondas are like that. the aftermarket pans usually just offer more oil capacity

the only real considerations for running a dry sump system, is the right oil pan, and the proper connector for the oil pump inlet to the block. if you cant find a connector that bolts right up, you may have to tap threads into the oil pump inlet to thread a fitting into
 

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Do I need high or low Impedance injectors? I forget lol. And RC or Precision for the brand?
 
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