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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Wassup bros? I was just trying to get an input on if everbody elses tensions like this. Mite be dumb but whatever. I just feel like its kinda self adjusting itself tighter once it hits about 3k rpm.

So ive been asking tons of shit lately because i spun a rod bearing in the ol h22 and every since being a young kid ive wanted to teach myself how to work on cars and i wanted a lude since 13 so i wasn giving up on her that easy. Well anyway that rod bearing finally gave me a reason to learn. So i bought a 97-98 prelude honda full service manual and a jdm h23a from jdmsource. I recently did the swap. I kept the swap all obd2. During it i used the old h22s intake, all accessories, sensors, tranny, and etc and swapped over to a manual tensioner. i replaced the rear main seal, the balance shaft seal, both o-rings on backside of oil pump housing, the rear balance housing gasket, front main seal, both cam seals but i messed up and bought some of them at advanced anyways were running great fast forward 100 miles front main seal rips, oils everywhere, (ohhhh nooooo, rite?) ahhh im pissed. Pull the motor this time i legit order everything from honda and some other stuff too. This go i replace the rear main seal, the balance shaft seal, o-ring on backside of oil pump housing, the rear balance housing gasket on back of pump and case on front, front main seal, both cam seals, vtec solenoid gaskets, valve cover gasket, spark tube seals, air filter, injector o-rings, both tranny and clutch hosing seals, ignition switch, both cv axles, ANOTHER gates belt because the last one got oil on it. And i do a compression test 210 215 210 215. (I just wanted all oem stuff and i didnt wanna replace it all to blow a head gasket so i bought a compression tester).

Anyways now 197 miles later were burning bright, we think we're crystal. And boom one day my buddy says "hey bro is the belt supposed to have that lil jump when you hit the throttle hard" and Hmm lemme check it out and im worried now mind you my belt has had the "super charger whine" and there was no twisting it 90 degrees so i know it was tight. And as i said its new as well as tensioner and all mounting points, springs and all.

So im gonna just put a video here and maybe some of you guys can let me know if this is normal?
Cause i havent drove her in 2 days.

Disregard the jingle its some bolts on the side of my fender.

 

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'01 Milano Red - BB615
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Are you running the auto tensioner? If so, it's the problem.
 

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Looks fine to me. The auto tensioners leave more of a belt wobble. If the belt has walked just to the edge of the cam gear, you know its good

That rattle should be looked into though
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks man. See i thought it was supposed to have 0 wobble but it makes sense that it would require a tad more tension at higher rpms. i was just so scared that was gonna make it jump time. And yea the belts completely settled on the cams and tensioner i do know that cause that was what i was worried about the first time around and i talked a couple of buddies into lettin me tear their h22 valve covers off and also the parts car still had a belt and they all seemed to be settled off at the same point. Lol and yea i knew the rattle would catch an ear lol im trying to diagnose my hard start so i had bolts from the coil and my multimeter and sh** all over the windshield cowl and fenders. But thanks alot i appreciate it guys. so yall do think the tensions good on her?
 

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H23 manual doesnt leave much room adjustment. I heard no belt noise and you said its not walking/has settled, so looks good to me.
 

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On the long side of the belt there should be 1/8 inch deflection on either side of the belt.this would be from the exhaust cam to cog on the crank. That is the longest stretch of belt. You can get a tool to measure tue deflection or you can use a socket extension to push the bel to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Instead of starting a new thread i been searching and cant exactly find a problem like this with an updated fix.
What could be my problem for the car dying once warmed up and not starting back up until cooled down?
So far i got spark, i am getting fuel, my timings on, my compression is 210 215 210 215, i checked the main relay for solder cracks, im gettin 11.6 volts to the battery, all my wires have less than 25k ohms resistance as the manual states and you can hear the injectors and pump when turnt to on as well as feel the relay click twice in your hand..
So far just to try ive changed out the icm in the dizzy as i read about a problem fairly similar and that was their solution to it, it didnt work for me it jist sputtered on em up as it was doing. And i also replaced the coil which didnt work.
What happens is for 4 days now she runs til warmed up and shuts off and then it wont fire it just cranks either really slow then picks up to normal or just real slow the whole time like the batterys about to die but its not. Then today i decided to check some more stuff and i started it (because i want it to die before i check it out cause i feel like the problems so intermittent that i wont find it unless when it happens) and instead of dying and staying dead she died then slowly cranked back up and never died in the half hour but the temp gauge got all the way up like she was gonna over heat and so i shut it down. Let it ride down to the halfway mark on temp gauge and it wouldnt start back up but the battery and all the plug wires tested the same. I also tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor to see if it would start but it didnt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
On the long side of the belt there should be 1/8 inch deflection on either side of the belt.this would be from the exhaust cam to cog on the crank. That is the longest stretch of belt. You can get a tool to measure tue deflection or you can use a socket extension to push the bel to check.


Thanks man I appreciate that. Nowhere in the honda fsm does it state anything like that. They just make sure its there for the alternator belt tho lol
 
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