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ok so i have found a machine shop close to my house and i actuly grew up with the guy so he is gonna take care of me he said. so i will be getting mine done. now i am not 100% sure after reading a bunch of posts about it how to exactly get it done. i belive the 4th runner doesnt need to be bored as much? and the secondary runners will play a major role in gains? and how big should i bore out the TB? just 2mm? and i need a 3/4 inch spacer? longer studs and gaskets will be matched as well...

if mine comes out good since its a spare i dont care about maybe i can ask him to get them done for us. i just ordered the gaskets now i will be out of work at 8pm so i will be calling him shortly after that to see if he wants to get it started tonite. i will bring my camera and post pics if we get it started tonite...
 

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no not free. but he said he wont kill me. he said its usualy close to 500 bucks? thats with gaskets and matched? i am hoping to pay less than 2...but we will see i will ask him if others want it maybe he can do a group deal?

as for the butterfly. i will try and get mine to 58 and then u can tell me if its any good fly. since i dont know much about this. just found the right guy at the right time...

so i need to match all the runners to the 4th runner? or make sure there all even....and for the spacer? 3/4 alum. is good?
 

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yea i am going there around 6ish when my gaskets arive. also i know its off subject to this thread. but what is the dif between a deep cycle battery and one that isnt? optima has a red top w. more cranking amps and the same CCA amps as the yellow one. and its only 115 as apposed to 165...is there a reason? also the red top has a 2 yr replacement for free yellow is 1...
 

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Have him bore the secondary runners out 2mm or so from the plenum through the plate and into the lower manifold, then match all the flows like Fly said.
58mm TB is about right, and a 3/4 inch spacer helps a bit too.

$500 sounds about right as well.
 

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yeah, i bored my tb to 60. still have to make a plate for it though. elliptical, not circular. should hopefully be done this weekend if can set up a jig for it.

i think all the info posted above has been good. i did mine by myself, with the intake manifold as well. it's not on the car yet, but very very close.. i will make a thread about it soon prolly after it all looks good....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea my gaskets will be in in about 2 hrs. so i am just waiting til then...so i think i have everything covered for him to get this done. i hope he has that 3/4 inch alum. i been reading up what i can is there any other specific things i should mention other then what i have:

3/4 inch spacer
54mm is the stock go for 58mm + make and match butterfly
match all gaskets
bore secondary runners out 2mm from plen. thru plate into the lower mani. then match the flows of the runners to the best one
longer studs

anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no go for tonite. which may b better anyway....
he said he has all the raw materials and he can match and make the gaskets and spacer no problem. as for the flow test i will be bringing it to my friends shop to dyno and test the flow....so sorry for the wait but the swap meet is this weekend so i will not be able to get it done until then....and fly he said he can make butterflys w. no problem so when mine is done u will get pics...i am gonna have him make motor mounts for a 240sx rb25 swap. and i am looking for info on h22 mounts but i cant seem to find how to make them...
 

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About the question you asked later... I can't give you a definite definition of what a deep cycle battery is, but I can tell you there is leaps and bounds of difference between the red and yellow top optimas. The red top is just like a standard battery that's a little better than the competition, but the yellowtop you can disconnect your alternator and drive coast to coast just using power from the battery. Like seriously, those yellow tops NEVER go dead. They just don't die! ever! Even with a 2400watt amp sucking down 80 amps running at a decent volume for hours.
 

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deiz91si said:
yea i am going there around 6ish when my gaskets arive. also i know its off subject to this thread. but what is the dif between a deep cycle battery and one that isnt? optima has a red top w. more cranking amps and the same CCA amps as the yellow one. and its only 115 as apposed to 165...is there a reason? also the red top has a 2 yr replacement for free yellow is 1...
deep cycle batteries are marine batteries. they are meant to be run from a full charge to fully dead without ANY charging. ie: an electric trolling motor on a boat. take a fully charged deep cycle battery, connect the electric whatever, and run it til the battery is fully dead.

charging a deep cycle battery before it is COMPLETELY dead is harmful to the battery. which basically means you shouldn't use a deep cycle battery in a car that has an alternator.

deep cycle batteries are used for: racing when you dont have an alternator, electric motors for boats, car stereos in a garage (lmao), hydraulics, and basically anything else that runs at 12 volts or a multiple of 12 where there is no charging present.
in fact, when using a deep cycle battery for something, if you dont like how slow the thing you're using the battery for operates when the battery starts dying, you're supposed to hook some form of light bar to it (or any form of draw that will completely kill the battery gradually) to completely drain the battery before recharging it

k, to sum it up, deep cycle batteries are meant to run til totally dead before charging it at all, a regular car battery is meant to be run with a charging component (alternator) charging the battery at all times or most times.

charging a deep cycle battery before it is completely drained damages the battery. completely draining a regular car battery til it is completely dead before charging it does damage to the battery.

hope this gives some insight on the difference between deep cycle batteries and regular automotive batteries.

if anyone is running a deep cycle battery in their car with the alternator connected to it normally (the way it came stock), replace the deep cycle with a regular battery. you are harming the battery and the alternator.

and i swear, if anyone tries to tell me otherwise from all of the above, imma e-smack ya :rocketwhore: . i've been working with deep cycle batteries and regular automotive batteries for over a decade on practically a daily basis. if you think anything i said above is wrong, you either read it wrong, arent understanding it the way i worded it, or are wrong yourself lol. sorry if i sound like an ass in saying that, but thats how it is.

:-D
 

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motoxxxman said:
deep cycle batteries are marine batteries. they are meant to be run from a full charge to fully dead without ANY charging. ie: an electric trolling motor on a boat. take a fully charged deep cycle battery, connect the electric whatever, and run it til the battery is fully dead.
this is true.

but i dont know anything about the color top batterys.

(and just for info.. my battery top is red)

WTF is up with the multi post,
its the damn server busy crap.

sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so your saying 60mm will yeild higher results. then i will do that. as for the flow test i will have to goto another shop which also has a dyno so ia m gonna check out how much they want. he said its his friend so hopefully not an arm and a leg. i have been wanting to dyno her. i need to make the cam gear cut outs this weekend or monday so i can have it ready when its time to go. i also wanna do the water pump and t belt...

moto thanks for the deep cycle info. i may just go with a red top or a regular bosch....
 

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where did you find info on the 4th runner stuff you were talking about. I havent seen or heard anything about matching to the 4th runner.. Also the guy who machined my butterfly plate told me that he could not take the 2mm from each side. he could basically only take 1mm all the way around which equals 2 total mm. is this what you were saying bobnova?
 
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