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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
this is a kinda small image, but it works with the 56k world pretty good.


http://www.barney3d.com/cadster/rides/lude/how to/powersteering/HOW2-SMALL.jpg
you can also download the larger version of the above image here -
http://www.barney3d.com/cadster/rides/lude/how to/powersteering/HOW2.jpg
this image is much larger (so its at least twice the file size)

these are the base pics i took with the camera. may help, may not-
linky (2.2 meg zip file)

what started as a heatshield install and vacuum hose reroute (small upper left pic with the yellow dot : notice my vacuum lines are now going under the intake manni) has turned into a P/S line reroute.. it was just too simple to not share with you guys ...

i have seen several reroutes where the line is routed like a 4th or 5th gen. i studied our line and believe this is a better way. what you are doing is this : your taking the P/S line and flipping it. instead of the line coming off the pump and going around the car engine, its now comming off the pump and going around the front left corner of the engine bay to the rack. its not in your way when your at the front of the engine and it cost zero bucks.

but be warned.. the P/S line is very unforgiving. dont take bending this line lightly, it will split open or crease if not done right. This was done with a car quest P/S line, not a honda OEM power steering line.

i cant stress enough that when you go to bend the line.. BEND IT ONLY A DEGREE OR TWO AT A TIME !!!!!!!!
give the metal time to settle before you go bending it more !!!!

this was also a new line purchased from car-quest. its about 4 months old. cant say if a 17+ year old line will/would act the same.





look it over, read, study, ask questions.

ill explain more if you need it.... maybe ;)

... if you do this and you like the results... rep points are a good way to show you approved of this mod :)
of course a b20a5 base map for a stand alone mega squirt box would be even better :lol:
 

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SWEET!!! I like it..... Did you just take off the metal heat shield housing that goes around the pipe where it goes over the exhaust manifold?? HOw bout the sharp bend near the alt... is that to sharp?? Is it gona kink? Again nice work!
 

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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
David Mansfield said:
SWEET!!! I like it..... Did you just take off the metal heat shield housing that goes around the pipe where it goes over the exhaust manifold??
yea. once you bend the P/S pump side to the front of the car, its no longer over the exhaust, so its no longer needed. mine was like insulation, i just cut it off the line.


David Mansfield said:
how bout the sharp bend near the alt... is that to sharp?? Is it gona kink? Again nice work!
the metal line sections can kink if bend too fast, too much, etc. the rubber line sections makes the tight turns, but they are not so tight that the rubber kinks. i took one of the fastners and scewed it to the radiator (the other is under the CC). this stops the line from moving/sliding. that was the only thing i was worried about because it showed no signs of kinking.. its tight, but not thast tight. the rubber parts of the lines pretty much fall where they want. this is where the metal bends being thought out and using the fastiners to keep the line from moving come in.
 

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Did you leave the line bolted to the pump as you made the bend.
It appears you were using the pump as a jig to bend the long section.
Was that being made to fit under the cc.
 

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yea, damn it im gona have to copy you on this one cadster! :) It makes the engine bay look much cleaner and I would also like the clearance for my intake! :)

The intake fits as it is but its tight over there cause of the ABS...
 

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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
David Mansfield said:
yea, damn it im gona have to copy you on this one cadster! :) It makes the engine bay look much cleaner and I would also like the clearance for my intake! :)

The intake fits as it is but its tight over there cause of the ABS...
yea. just be sure to keep an eye on the metal as you bend. bend a little, wait, bend a little more, wait.

keep and eye on it... not joking on this.



Kbulls91Lude said:
Did you leave the line bolted to the pump as you made the bend.
It appears you were using the pump as a jig to bend the long section.
Was that being made to fit under the cc.
yea. the P/S pump is rounded. so it was great for making bends (i used different parts of the pump, what ever was rounded enough to help with the bend is what i used).
having this thing close enough to allow both ends to be bolted up while bending was just a plus that kept fluid from leaking.

using plyiers or something would of just screwed the hose up.

i attached and undid the line several times. undo to move and thread though car, bolt up to bend, repeat :)

the cruise can was unbolted, but the cable kept it in its stock location. just lift it when you go to route the P/S line under it. i had to unhook one of the plugs and the vacuum line. all went back together easily.

and be careful with the wire connectors. this line binding on one of them will break the plastic connector pretty easily.







.................

i really want to hear how it goes with others who try this. i had a good time with it. it was not at all hard.
i'd like to hear from others if it went as smooth. i would also like to know if the how-to sheet makes sense
when you go to do this :)
 

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Yeah, and get a better view of my header.lol.
 

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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
no longer 56k frendly



you got to really watch this end. notice how its started to collaps. this did not happen untill i went to bend it down to clear the hood. i love how the P/S line makes this bend. it looks factory when seen in person.

notice the clamp holding the line at the radiator. this clamp is the one that is just below and in front of the distributor. the rubber inside this clamp is from the other front clamp (in front of head, at exhaust mani end). it was bolted to an existing mount on the radiator.

the other clamp (the one the above rubber was removed from) is under the CC can. this clamp has the rubber that was removed from the other clamp inside it. it was bolted to an existing hole in the inner fenderwell, but is completely covered and cant be seen.



notice how long the metal neck is. if you have a real short neck, it may not work. this is a car quest P/S line... not OEM honda. also notice the bend. when the line is bent twords the front of the car, its nowhere close to a 90 degree bend. i would guess its a 50 degree bend at the most. when my line had to be bent down to clear the hood, it was only an additional 10 or so degrees.



notice the bends. the bends match the curve of the core support and are not so tight that they bind.
and the hose dont get in the way of the hood holder either.

(these pics were reduced in size, but still came from the PICS.zip file)
 

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So if I don't have power steering and don't plan on using it I can take the pump and that hose off, correct? Would I need to plug the hole or something?


Ken
 

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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
flylwsi said:
totally OT.
you'd remove the hose and pump, and plug the power steering rack, at the rack.
and you should also remove the P/S cooling lines (inside bumper at bottom of radiator) and the fluid reservoir.
 

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Looks like you took matters into your own hands. Glad somebody did. That thing going right there in front of our engines has been kinda a pain in the ass and an eye sore for some time. Thanks. I wonder if it kinda went like "This damn thing. Son of a Biaoch! This is the last time this F ing thing gets in my way. THERE! Dammit, Why didn't Honda think of this?" :laugh:
 

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Very good job. If anyone wants to try this though..don't try it with the stock Honda lines. They are very thick walled.

The short length of rubber line between the pump and the radiator area ( I know that you really didn't screw into the radiator itself :)) is what will be absorbing engine movements and vibrations. I would sooner have this be free and long as possible in order to put less stress on the bent metal pipe attached to the pump. Maybe just a loose heavy duty zip-tie to keep it somewhat in place rather than your clamp thing. Just a thought.

Kudos for a much simpler solution than this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
diamondsleeper said:
Looks like you took matters into your own hands. Glad somebody did. That thing going right there in front of our engines has been kinda a pain in the ass and an eye sore for some time. Thanks. I wonder if it kinda went like "This damn thing. Son of a Biaoch! This is the last time this F ing thing gets in my way. THERE! Dammit, Why didn't Honda think of this?" :laugh:
hahaha...

it was the heatshield that started this. i could not get mine out until i unbolted most of the p/s line. so i unhooked my spark plug wires and just layed the whole line over to the right... and it fit.

a few bends later and it was under the stuff on the right side and the hood was shutting just fine :)

this mod uses the exact same leingth of P/S line and the correct part ordered from a parts store should work.
(except for what dano said about the honda line being thick walled, should still bend, just do it slowly and not in one go. aluminium is real good about being work-able.

sweet.



dano said:
Very good job. If anyone wants to try this though..don't try it with the stock Honda lines. They are very thick walled.

The short length of rubber line between the pump and the radiator area ( I know that you really didn't screw into the radiator itself :)) is what will be absorbing engine movements and vibrations. I would sooner have this be free and long as possible in order to put less stress on the bent metal pipe attached to the pump. Maybe just a loose heavy duty zip-tie to keep it somewhat in place rather than your clamp thing. Just a thought.
the clamp on the radiator is at the shroud mount tab thingie... its a bolt welded to the back of a tab looking thing.

dano said:
Kudos for a much simpler solution than this:

yea.. thats the 5th gen look i was talking about. but this gets in the way as much as having it in the front IMO.

what might also work is if you just cut the line off the pump fitting and had it welded back 90 degrees counterclockwise from where it was.

and the rubber line should take the vibration just fine, (its bolted to a radiator that sits in rubber mounts, the clamp that holds the rubber line to the radiator is in rubber and the engine has rubber mounts, nothing should bind). i have had this done for a few weeks and the rubber section has shown no signs of wear from movement (but i have 4 good mounts on a mostly stock engine).

if someone has a OEM honda line and would ship it to me (say if you removed your P/S and no longer need it), i will see if the OEM line will bend and if i can get it to work, and post my results.
 

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flylwsi said:
totally OT.
you'd remove the hose and pump, and plug the power steering rack, at the rack.

How is this off topic? its a question about what we are discussing in the thread. Instead of relocation, I was asking about removing. I am sorry for jacking the thread I just didn't think it was that ot. I appreciate the answer but I am new to this 3rd gen. So cut me some slack man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
come to my house.. ill help you remove your system if you want.

and dont piss fly off... he will lock my thread.
 
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