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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so i have a 1989 prelude 2.0 si with a b20a5 in it. When i start my car the idle goes up to about 1200 and stays like that till it warms up. Once i get going my belts squeal, but not all the time. Usually does it in first gear and happens randomly in other gears at low rpms. But when i push my clutch in the idle drops all the way down to about 100, almost stalls the engine (sometimes does) and then goes up a little bit. But once i come to a stop and sit there for a little bit it goes up to 700-800. Any ideas on why the idle drops? and why my car is squealing? Any input will be appreciated. Oh yea, and my car is reading a 9 Check engine code. Which is no 1 cylinder position sensor, could this have anything to do with the problem? Also i have checked the vacuum lines and none are leaking, radiator is topped off and has been properly bleed. My friend said that it might be my spark plug wires because they are the "high compression" ones. I just want to know before i go buy a distributor and find out that it doesn't fix the problem. I also put a new ram intake on and have replaced the throttle position sensor. I have also screwed the FITV all the way down and back half a turn. I also found out that it doesn't do this as bad after i let the car warm up for about 5 mins before driving. Hopefully i have better luck with this site cause the other prelude site gave me nothing and had not luck at all.
 

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did you meter the tps when you replaced it? it needs to have specific readings in order to operate properly. for the code 9, look at the sensor on the exhaust cam(in front of the distributor). there is a two pin plug on it. is the wiring broken or exposed? if the wires touch it will cause the code. if the sensor or wiring to it is faulty, it will cause the injectors to fire all the time instead of the specific intervals required. in other words, the fuel mileage will be down because the car will be filthy rich. if the plug wires are suspect, just replace them. its not necessary to run a high impedance wire set on the stock ignition. ngk wires are 38 bucks on egay. why would you be replacing the distributor? nothing mentioned in your post about it. have you pulled the cap and inspected the condition of the rotor and the terminals on the inside of the cap?
 

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First and foremost, get your CEL fixed. The CKP is bolted to the exhaust cam next to the distributor. Go to the FSM and do the flowchart testing to diagnose your CEL code 9.

Secondly, your belts squeals because a) they are not properly tensioned or b) they are just old and stretched out.

Maybe also trying taking your IAC valve/motor and cleaning it out.


Good luck.


-Carlos
 

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First of all hi again to everyone here, just signed up to forums :) Mate, with that cel and the squeeling belt noise, id be pulling the front cover, check your timing belt NOW lol you may find your tensioner is getting ready to give up the ghost and throwing your valve timing out slightly, will explain the idle probs and the noise. Also measure your battery voltage, should be stable around 14v The wiring around the cyl sensor is known to fray and short out displaying a cel, check the wires where they exit the sensor at the end of the exhaust camshaft. Lastly and air circulating in the coolant will also lead to an unstable idle, tho your squeeling noise and the cyl position fault worries me a bit, sounds like a valve timing/belt issue. If there is any change in idle in neutral pressing clutch check your crank end float. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I read that the cylinder position is embedded into the distributor housing. And there are 2 wires that have but pin connectors on them like they have been cut and recently replaced. Timing belt and tensioner spring have been replaced, also when i spray brake cleaner on the belt to dry it up it doesnt make anymore noise for a little bit. I suspect that i have a power steering leak as i have to refill my power steering fluid. Also the tps was not meter'd as my mechanic couldnt get his meter to work at the time. He also replaced the head gasket, do you think its possible that he may have not done it right to make it smoke a little bit because it didnt do it before i had him do the work. And the car idles fine when im not moving but right after i stop is when it starts to surge. And no i haven't checked the inside of the distributor yet.
 

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there is a sensor in the distributor. but i don't think that is the one you want to be working on. if you see right beside the distributor there is a sensor there it says "tec" on it. the wiring to that sensor is what usually trips the code 9. or oil leaking internally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea, i looked at it and ill have to look more into it, but i found out that my engine is also smoking from under the hood as well as through the tail pipe
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
considering i have to pull the engine to replace my oil leaks, i will not be doing that anytime soon.
 

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the rear main seal is the only one that would require you to pull the motor, and that really doesn't need to happen. you can drop the trans to get to the seal. all of the external oil seals in a 3g are serviceable with the engine in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
oh really?
that is great news, cause i am leaking a lot of oil
about how much would a rear main seal cost for a b20a5?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well that is great news. Now i just have to stop my car from burning oil lol
 
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