hi. i drive on the freeway alot and i was wondering what spring rate would be not too bumpy or too soft for Ground Control?? also anybody know what the stock spring rate is for the 4th Gen Prelude??
found this after 30 seconds of searching.Wow, had I been posting still back in January I would have "steered" (nyuk nyuk nyuk) her straight on that.
Selling the prelude doesn't change driving skill.
If she is still on here and reads this, then fine. Could also be useful to those who are new to handling concepts. It's going to be basic so you old hands at cars need not comment about how you already know this stuff.
These are front-wheel drive cars, which have understeer.Understeer is a tendency to want to pull to the outside of a turn. This is because the weight in the back is pushing against the oter front wheel on a turn. That weight promotes slippage towards the outside, regardless of the position of the front wheels. Rear wheel drive vehicles don't suffer as much from this since adjusting the angle of the car via steering also adjusts the diretion of the driving wheels in the back, which pushes it more and more in the direction one steers the car. IN fact, it can overshoot and spin the car around on the inside of the turn, and this is called OVERsteer.
Anyways, we are dealing with a Prelude which is front wheel drive (FWD).
1. Since we are concerned about the outside wheel with understeer issues, the first thing is you must have good to excellent tires! Grip is the key here to avoiding slip on that outer wheel and avoiding understeering out of the turn.
2. Also, a lower profile tire like a 50 series will assist this by reducing the amount of flex in the sidewall. You do not want to go TOO low of a profile, however. The air-filled tire acts as part of the suspension, so small bumps are partially absorbed by the tread as the tire gives some to comform to the road. Too small a tire profile won't conform as well. Too large will flex the sidewalls too much. 50 series is perfect on a 16x7" rim on our cars in my opinion, at least in terms of handling. You might be able to have a reasonable profile ona 17" rim, however, since our 4G wheel wells are quite large for a 90's Honda.
3. Just like the tire's sidewall flex, your springs handle movement of the car in terms of leaning one way or another in a turn. The front should yield less. As the car leans to one side or the other, that motion is kinetic energy that adds more weight and force to the tire that supports that corner of the car, which can promote more slippage and understeer on the outer wheel in a turn. A stiffer than stock spring can eliminate some of this.
4. Also, a slightly lower stance from your average lowering spring will help lower the center of gravity, which also reduces the kinetic weight on the outside corners of the car in turns. A lower object has less tendency to lean over.
5. The front struts are a big part as well, and an adjustable strut will let you change the rebound rate via a positionable valve. Usually this is located on the top in the center of the strut tower, and is adjusted with either a removable knob or a small flathead screwdriver. Rears are usually adjustable via a permenant knob on the bottom, or by hand-turning the lower half of the shock body. In this case you want it slightly firm, but not all the way, since you still need to ahere the tires nicely to the pavement. Were this dragracing you would want them set all the way up to highest, to keep the traction more consistent and reduce wheel hop, but in terms of handling turns, you want them resistant but not too much. Most front adjustabl struts have 4 or 5 settings, 1 being softest. A 4-way adjustable would be bet set to 3.
6. In terms of manual gearboxes (5-speed stick), dropping to a lower gear will give you more resistance against your car's momentum, and allow you to power around the turn better. it will also allow you to pull out of the turn onto the straight quicker.
7. Knowing how and when to "apex" a turn is also very important. The apex of a turn can be best described as the halfway point in the turn. When you "apex" the turn (note that it can be a verb in this case), you take the far outside of the pavement with your car, and cut the corner as you get to it, then, as you leave the apex, you bring the car back to the outside as it goes back into a straight. This maximizes the turn size and allows for a less-sharp turn. That allows for a turn taken at higher speeds. There is an imaginary line in road racing called the reference line that traces this proper path from the outside into the turn to cutting the turn to the apex's inner corner, to returning back to the outside of the pavement.
My friend has a bumper sticker on his car that says, "Friends don't let friends apex too early". Too early would mean hitting the inside corner of the apex! :shock:
These seven things are important to good handling in a FWD car. A Prelude 4G is no exception to those seven items. Other stuff like strut tower braces helps some, but proper tires and springs and struts/shocks will do far more for your car than a $60-100 strut tower brace. Prelude 4G cars already posess an unusually rigid and stable chassis right from the factory, so strut tower braces do only a little improvement. A thicker swaybar will also help some, but the seven things listed above are far more important as they not only give the driver control over the suspension configuration but also give insight as to how best to take your average turn.
This applies to road racing as much as it does cayon carving in the back hills with the homies.
F=for T=the W=winoff topic
i always see FTW posted, but what does it mean?
ask around first. search this site, google it, yahoo it i mean the answer is on the net somewhere dude.yo Bryan R, chill bro. what you posted does not help me at all...... and sorri im new to this forum stuff.