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The only thing I can think about doing is drilling out the center of the stud and just put a new stud in. I had to replace 3 studs on the front on my DD the other day and I used a drill and started out with small bits untill I used the closest bit to the stud size. They are easy to break off after hollowing it out.

Hope that helps
 

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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
ouch... thats going to hurt.
but thanks for the input.. keep them coming.

i thought of spot welding an allen wrench on it.

but i dont know what that will do to my wheel.
 

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Doubt it'd do much. If you're really concerned about the wheel, wrap some ice on the rear side of the wheel and try and get something cold at least around the lug that needs removed. Because the wheels are subject to high heat especially at high speeds and hard braking, I would not imagine a spot weld doing much, if any at all, if it is quick. I would only advise against prolonged periods of high heat.

Hell I had the same worry about when I welded a new piece of upper frame to the lip under the top part of the windshield of my old Camry. I thought I would melt the plastic of the interior so I kept the spot welds very short and kept ice on the roof around where I was welding and it was fine.
 

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Yeah, use a wet rag around the wheel and just take a mig and tack a few welds and see if that works...Sorry, I forget some people know how to weld. You should good if you don't put a ton of heat on it.
 

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Cad, I run into this kind of problem a lot. I work on machines for a living. Most of the machines use socket head cap screws, what some people call "Allen" screws. When they get stripped or worn, there are a few things you can do.

1. Grind down the worn section of the hex wrench. In your case it would be the worn key. The idea is that you will have a nice clean, fresh section to put into the lug. Obviously this doesn't work if your key isn't long enough to support grinding down.

2. Use an abrasive anti-camout fluid. Comes in a little bottle or tube. It is abrasive suspended in a liquid. You put a drop or two on the worn screw/wrench and it gives extra bite to keep the tool/screw from slipping. This stuff works awesome, one of the best 3 to 4 dollar items you can put in your toolbox. I have seen this at McMaster.com and also at Sears in the screwdriver section.

3. When all else fails, use an appropriate size Torx bit. You know, the kind used on Ford brake calipers, Honda seat belt bolts and/or strikers.
The best ones are the hardened ones. Just line up the "points" of the Torx bit with the worn corners of the nut and tap/hammer it into the worn out nut. You want it to be a real tight fit.

If all that fails, you may want to start think about a large EZ out, but the nut may not be deep enough to use it. You could also cut a slot in it with a cutoff wheel or Dremel and try to use a screwdriver or chisel to turn it. Sears has a line of screw/bolt extractors out that may help, but they fit around the outside of the bolt head and you may not have clearance on your wheel.

Last thing would be to go to one of the larger tire shops in your area, the one that sells lots of wheels. Their customers are always losing wheel lock keys and they have special sockets that will remove wheel locks.
 

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Kickass truck missed
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Discussion Starter #10
Use an abrasive anti-camout fluid. Comes in a little bottle or tube. It is abrasive suspended in a liquid. You put a drop or two on the worn screw/wrench and it gives extra bite to keep the tool/screw from slipping. This stuff works awesome, one of the best 3 to 4 dollar items you can put in your toolbox. I have seen this at McMaster.com and also at Sears in the screwdriver section.

3. When all else fails, use an appropriate size Torx bit. You know, the kind used on Ford brake calipers, Honda seat belt bolts and/or strikers.
The best ones are the hardened ones. Just line up the "points" of the Torx bit with the worn corners of the nut and tap/hammer it into the worn out nut. You want it to be a real tight fit.
mucho good stuff here, thanks.

that abrasive fluid gives me an idea..... wrap my tuner bit with aluminum foil.. this should fill in the gaps just fine and it might give me the bite i need.
i think im going to try this to see how it works... its not like i got anything to loose ;)
 

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so its your socket/'key' thats worn? i have lugs just like those. you can just go buy a 12 mm hex key, they sell them at advanced/autozone. the set looks similar to this, mine came with 10mm 12mm and 14mm.



I had to do this once, i didn't have my socket in the car and i got a flat tire out on the interstate, around an hour and a half away from home. Luckily another luder came the the rescue and gave me a ride to advanced, where I bought a set of three sockets, the 12 mm one happened to fit my lugs. hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so its your socket/'key' thats worn? i have lugs just like those. you can just go buy a 12 mm hex key, they sell them at advanced/autozone.
pretty much, yea. both are worn. between the two it would not come off.


3. When all else fails, use an appropriate size Torx bit. You know, the kind used on Ford brake calipers, Honda seat belt bolts and/or strikers.
The best ones are the hardened ones. Just line up the "points" of the Torx bit with the worn corners of the nut and tap/hammer it into the worn out nut. You want it to be a real tight fit.
aluminum foil - FTL
my idea did not work at all.

torx bit - FTW
worked like a charm.

thanks everyone :)
 

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pretty much, yea. both are worn. between the two it would not come off.




aluminum foil - FTL
my idea did not work at all.

torx bit - FTW
worked like a charm.

thanks everyone :)
Glad to hear you didn't have to go the long and time consuming route of welding something to the tuner lug and yanking it out that way.
 
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