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Discussion Starter #1
how do i remove the stereo wiring harness for the deck, do i have to pull out the wires to the speakers and such too?
im bored so im gonna solder and put heat shrink tubing on the adapter from my deck to the harness to reduce distortion and the risk of oxidization.
 

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Its just a typical wire plug. Unplug it from the back of the deck. Did you cut your stock harness thought? Because if you didnt there is no reason to solder the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no.. im not that stupid.
the other end.
i wanna pull the harness out of the car, so i can take it inside and solder the adapter for my deck to the wires(i.e. power, ground, speaker out, acc..).
do i have to pull the ENTIRE in dash harness out?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
oh, and what kinda solder should i use?
 

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no.. im not that stupid.
the other end.
i wanna pull the harness out of the car, so i can take it inside and solder the adapter for my deck to the wires(i.e. power, ground, speaker out, acc..).
do i have to pull the ENTIRE in dash harness out?
if you go to a stereo shop, they can sell you a metra 1720 harness that fits onto the factory plug, and that has all of the wires that you can solder to your aftermarket harness. otherwise, the harness is long enough to do what you want right in the car. ie splice behind the factory plug.
 

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if you go to a stereo shop, they can sell you a metra 1720 harness that fits onto the factory plug, and that has all of the wires that you can solder to your aftermarket harness. otherwise, the harness is long enough to do what you want right in the car. ie splice behind the factory plug.
its regular electronics solder that you can buy in radio shack as well as mini butane torch or soldering iron. it is not the thick stuff, and comes on a roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
if you go to a stereo shop, they can sell you a metra 1720 harness that fits onto the factory plug, and that has all of the wires that you can solder to your aftermarket harness. otherwise, the harness is long enough to do what you want right in the car. ie splice behind the factory plug.
the factory harness was cut off before i bought the car.
and the wires have been cut pretty short.. and i wanna do it inside, cuz its cold and snowy outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
its regular electronics solder that you can buy in radio shack as well as mini butane torch or soldering iron. it is not the thick stuff, and comes on a roll.
60% tin 40% lead?
and i already have a craftsman soldering gun and soldering pen.
 

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the factory harness was cut off before i bought the car.
and the wires have been cut pretty short.. and i wanna do it inside, cuz its cold and snowy outside.
i got ya. that harness is integrated through out the harness behind your heater case. i know you don't want to pull the heater case, because that would take a lot longer, but if you pull your console, and trim around the radio, you will see four black phillips screws and one on either side. if you remove those, you will have quite a bit more room to work with to do it in the car. should take about 45 min to an hour, and if you pull the accessory and constant fuse, you can work on it with the heat running.
 

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i got ya. that harness is integrated through out the harness behind your heater case. i know you don't want to pull the heater case, because that would take a lot longer, but if you pull your console, and trim around the radio, you will see four black phillips screws and one on either side. if you remove those, you will have quite a bit more room to work with to do it in the car. should take about 45 min to an hour, and if you pull the accessory and constant fuse, you can work on it with the heat running.
you will get the radio housing and ashtray out of your way in one shot
 

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Discussion Starter #11
my cars not really running right now, its in the middle of a transmission transplant.
but im bored and the dude thats suppose to be helping me is flaking, so ima do this.

i know about the screws, i was pretty sure there wasnt a way to take out just that section of the harness without soldering something else.
i was gonna do that anyway, but i thought id find out.
thanks for the help.
 

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my cars not really running right now, its in the middle of a transmission transplant.
but im bored and the dude thats suppose to be helping me is flaking, so ima do this.

i know about the screws, i was pretty sure there wasnt a way to take out just that section of the harness without soldering something else.
i was gonna do that anyway, but i thought id find out.
thanks for the help.
no problem, i am at work now, but pm me and i will send you the wiring if you need it. as far as the trans goes, i just did clutch on friends, and have pulled mine a week ago, if you got questions just ask.
 

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a metal or glass dish/pan is your friend for setting down the iron or pen in the car. Offcourse extension cord if you need one. just keep it out of the snow. You got a sucky job ahead of you. I have been there before. same situation. bought it like that. Wouldn't hurt seeing how you are going through all the work to try to get the original plug at the junkyard. I mean otherwise you might end up where you are now after several decks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
im just hoping the wires are long enough.
im gonna buy this tomorrow to help me, usually i just set it on a piece of glass.
and im gonna buy a cheap iron cuz i dont wanna unpack all my boxes that ive already repacked twice to find my other ones. lol
im gonna have to pull off the whole plastic peice around the shifter and deck and unscrew all that shit and pull the harness down onto the passangerside floor otherwise the wires will be hella inaccessable to solder.
 

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how do i remove the stereo wiring harness for the deck, do i have to pull out the wires to the speakers and such too?
im bored so im gonna solder and put heat shrink tubing on the adapter from my deck to the harness to reduce distortion and the risk of oxidization.

It is going to do absolutly ZERO as far as sound quality, will NOT reduce distortion , so unless you are just bored and want to do something that will have no effect other than to waste a lot of time....WHY ???
 

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Discussion Starter #18
quoted from the car stereo cookbook
after about six months, a properly crimped wire has an ipedence of roughly 0.03 ohms, due to oxidation (it gets worse as time goes on). this doesnt sound like much, but consider the fact that from the battery to the amp there can easily be five or more crimped connections through distribution blocks and so forth.
lets assume five connections of 0.03 ohms, for a grand total of 0.15 ohms. for a 50w x 2 amp, the maximum current is approximately 17 amps. this rusults in a maximum voltage drop of 2.5 volts, and a reduction in maximum power over 30 percent. remember, this is due to the connectors alone, and on top of any additional losses in the wires themselves.
crimping and then soldering results in an ipedence of 0.01 ohms per connection. this number does not degrade over time. for our example, this would limit the maximum voltage drop to 0.85 volts, and the reduction in maximum power to 10 percent.
its a very helpful book, but auto audio was written better.

and i already have 2 known sets of crimp connectors..
 

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You will want to use rosin core solder with any kind of electronics soldering. The tin/lead mixture is not as important as the type of flux is. You definitely don't want to use acid core solder, as this will eat away the metal in the wire over time. 60/40 will work fine, as long as you use rosin core solder.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thats what i was thinking.. just double checking.
 
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