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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, new here and new to owning a prelude as well :p So naturally I've got a few questions about a new sound system build I wanna put together.

All I'm going to do at the moment is install a new head unit (Kenwood KDC-BT562U), four new speakers (Polk db 6x9's and db 6.5 components) that all rms at 100w at four ohms, and an amp to push them at that wattage (Pioneer GM-D8604). Gonna install it in the trunk with a 4ga awg wire, and the 80a fuse that comes with the kit I'm looking at will be fine for the moment.

Now all that's fine. Obviously the alternator will be able to handle that (I mean the system's only 400 watts). But what I'm worried about is when I install subs, I'd like to push them with this amp, doing 800w at 2ohms...

The two amps are pushing speakers with different resistances, but combined isn't it still 1200w? I'm thinking that's a bit high for the stock alternator. Would a capacitor do the trick, or just larger power wires for the car, or a new alternator, or all three? I installed two amps in a Camaro I used to have but that car was beefier in general and I didn't really have to worry about anything.

Lastly, I want to run both amps on the single 4ga wire, given it's short enough. Just looking at the fuses on the amps it totals 180a, this a good fuse replacement?

Any other words of advice would be rad, thanks guys :)
 

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Your system won't run at 1200w all the time. I guarantee you won't get more than 4-500 w out of it unless you really hit low bass note.

Your stock alt will be fine. I run a fully active system with around a potential 1000w rms and a lot of inefficient class a power from my genesis amps and still on the stock alt.

No need for a capacitor really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Alright, when I get everything I'll hook it up and hope for the best. Oh, lastly what's a good ground in the trunk? I pulled up my carpet and found a screw hole on the passenger side under the strut and sanded it, but I don't know if it's gonna be solid (attached a picture). I was also thinking under one of the screws or plate in the next attached picture might work... but again, not sure.
 

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On my passenger side (your drivers side) I mounted my ground on the top control arm wishbone bolt after sanding to bare metal. Most direct path to my boot battery.
 

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Alright, when I get everything I'll hook it up and hope for the best. Oh, lastly what's a good ground in the trunk? I pulled up my carpet and found a screw hole on the passenger side under the strut and sanded it, but I don't know if it's gonna be solid (attached a picture). I was also thinking under one of the screws or plate in the next attached picture might work... but again, not sure.
Pro tip: 98% of people here can't see your pics. Try using a pic hosting site. I drilled a hole in the metal lip there on the bottom just behind the seat and used a nut, bolt and ring with some 8g wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright I got everything put together, power wires running on the passenger side and rca and speaker wires on the drivers side. But I'm having an issue, the speakers just don't sound great. There's like a static sound in my highs and the tweeters seem to be way too loud. I put them on -3db on the crossovers in the doors and adjusted it on the head unit but it's still sharp and painful. My $40 desktop 2.1 system sounds more clear and balanced (though not as loud) than this. I know these speakers are capable of more, any idea what can cause this?
 

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Well it seems like you know your shit and did the calculations. Although 0 gauge may help with all that power. Could it be the 128 bit mp3's? Maybe the equipment? You cut the cups and stuffed 6.5's in the doors so that says a lot.

I run some old crap that half is bit older than the car and more than likely older than some reading but it still works. Do some math when running wire. You have a cheap headunit that if it is like 95% of others new ones has modes and boost and all that crap. None are clean. I have some polks on the shelf and they are on the shelf. Not that i have a clue but did you test stuff before you pulled panels and carpet? Maybe see if your phone feeds the amp cleaner? What makes you think you need an amp to run them anyway?

Is this a car audio section?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I initially posted this in the regular 5th gen forum because I was looking for a grounding location for my 5th gen prelude -- thought it might narrow it down better.

So, funny thing is it was in my head somewhat. A while back I bought some AT m50x headphones, and they changed everything for me. My music was suddenly so clear, and all of my low bitrate songs sounded... well, compressed. But even when I could hear compression, it sounded better than my regular headphones. With these Polk speakers, I was just using an old flash drive that had music on it and didn't recognize that it was compression I was hearing, and my old speakers sounded clear with the compressed songs. Buuuut I grabbed my aux cord and played some 400+ kbps music in the car (something I can't tell much of a difference with when using my desktop speakers), and it sounded fantastic. The tweeters didn't even sound sharp anymore. I changed the way they're mounted so they're facing the driver and passenger (by factory they were pointed away??), so they were a tad too loud but the -3db along with the HU's equalizer fixed that.

The head unit is pretty high-end, it was like $260 and it's got 3 preamp outputs. As far as boosters go, I like my music mostly flat -- with just a touch of 8khz for that crisp effect and a bit more 0-100hz for some extra boom.

The speakers needed an amp simply because they're rated at 100w rms, and the head unit only pushes 14. Plus reviews said they didn't sound great without proper power.

And... God putting the 6.5s in the doors was the biggest pain in my ass. They're not 100% super perfect ultra secure fit, but it's solid and proper enough for me to deal.
 

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I initially posted this in the regular 5th gen forum because I was looking for a grounding location for my 5th gen prelude -- thought it might narrow it down better.

So, funny thing is it was in my head somewhat. A while back I bought some AT m50x headphones, and they changed everything for me. My music was suddenly so clear, and all of my low bitrate songs sounded... well, compressed. But even when I could hear compression, it sounded better than my regular headphones. With these Polk speakers, I was just using an old flash drive that had music on it and didn't recognize that it was compression I was hearing, and my old speakers sounded clear with the compressed songs. Buuuut I grabbed my aux cord and played some 400+ kbps music in the car (something I can't tell much of a difference with when using my desktop speakers), and it sounded fantastic. The tweeters didn't even sound sharp anymore. I changed the way they're mounted so they're facing the driver and passenger (by factory they were pointed away??), so they were a tad too loud but the -3db along with the HU's equalizer fixed that.

The head unit is pretty high-end, it was like $260 and it's got 3 preamp outputs. As far as boosters go, I like my music mostly flat -- with just a touch of 8khz for that crisp effect and a bit more 0-100hz for some extra boom.

The speakers needed an amp simply because they're rated at 100w rms, and the head unit only pushes 14. Plus reviews said they didn't sound great without proper power.

And... God putting the 6.5s in the doors was the biggest pain in my ass. They're not 100% super perfect ultra secure fit, but it's solid and proper enough for me to deal.

Wait till you hear real sound. You will forget all about skrillex.

Ok that head unit isn't $120 online. Want to buy some japanese boosters? JDM yo and will clear it up for only $39.95 each. I'm joking i don't think you understood what i said.

You know that crossover ,it kinda gives the tweets power. In these cars and how frequency carries and location. Well that is the fun of audio. Stuffed em in the door panel cups?

I've seen them it's shady ass hell. If you want that pod it out. Toss a sub worth a damn and feed it you'll be wondering how to stop rattles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I didn't realize I originally said I was getting the kenwood head unit. I changed my mind and got a Pioneer DEH X8600BHS, which is actually $260, not $120 like the Kenwood. The rest of the equipment is the same.

I had a 10" Infinity reference receiving 500 @4ohms in the Camaro, sounded really nice and since it was a hatchback it got pretty damn loud. I had a Polk subwoofer before it which wasnt as loud but imo sounded better...

And hey, I didn't even have the idea of getting a sound system without subs being involved. I wanna get the Zenclosures box for this car and put two DB1240's in it, they're 360 rms, so a Pioneer GMD9601 will be perfect.

Though I'm debating just getting a single
 

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Stick with a single. I stepped my "system" down to just a single 12" in a smaller enclosure, so much easier to managed and so much lighter than the doubles setups I've used in the past.

I'm not nearly as picky as you are for frequency range and harmonics, I just wanted a little bit of bump.
 

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Stick with a single. I stepped my "system" down to just a single 12" in a smaller enclosure, so much easier to managed and so much lighter than the doubles setups I've used in the past.

I'm not nearly as picky as you are for frequency range and harmonics, I just wanted a little bit of bump.
Agree 100% I did the same thing. Just upgraded to a better sub and I'm much happier having a functional trunk
 
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