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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got the crank bolt off and I pulled the key with a magnet but the pulley won't budge. I'm afraid to use too much leverage on the oil pan because I don't want to break anything.

Is there something special? My Hayne's manual and the online manual are so obscure that they just say to "slip the pulley off the crank". Not very helpful. This is the only thing standing in my way to changing the timing belt.
 

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There is a couple threads floating around about tis. mine separated a couple moths ago and when i took the bolt off it pulled right off. But I know you can just beat it off with a mallet/hammer just watch your pan its the easiest way. It should come right off though when you hit it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll give it a shot. I'm afraid to damage the pulley. I'll try a hammer and a piece of wood but there isn't a ton of room for it.
 

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just wiggle it around on all edges, and it loosen up and slide off eventually
 

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yeah, it just slips onto the crank. once the bolt is out of the way, it should just tap off. since you've pulled the key, you can probably rotate it on the crank, that might loosen up any stickyness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I tried just wiggling it around for about 15 minutes with no luck. I'm going to head out right now and try the hammer trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I really wish I would have taken pictures while doing this because there isn't a quality walkthrough for it. I made a walkthrough on how to change the brake master cylinder but not this. I think this was just too frustrating.

I got the pulley off real easy once I smacked it a few times with a hammer and a piece of wood. I replaced the crank seal, one cam seal (fuck the other one... it's on damn tight and I don't have a wrench long enough for leverage and no pipe), the water pump, and the belt tensioner.

Unfortunately, it is now sitting out there beltless and still in pieces because I'm pretty sure the belt that I bought at NAPA (NAPA brand by Gates) isn't correct. It's definately too short. I spent 30 minutes dicking around, lots of swearing, trying to get the belt on but I just couldn't quite get it to slip on. When I compared it to the old one (something I should have done from the beginning), the new belt is definately shorter. I think it's shorter by a good 2 teeth and it's making it absolute hell getting it on. I doubt the old belt is stretched; it still looks to be in great condition but I've got everything apart so I don't want to put it back on.

I called CarQuest and they're ordering me one for tomorrow at 1pm so I'm going to pick it up and HOPEFULLY get this finished tomorrow. I didn't think this would be such a long process. It seems so simple.

BTW, whoever mentioned in another thread that when you remove the water pump you will lose a little coolant is a damn LIAR. Thankfully, I had a drain pan underneath it. When I cracked that last bolt open with the others removed, it was like I opened the flood gates. My drain pan almost couldn't handle it. I've got one of those 15qt ones from Wal-Mart with the small drain in the top into the main basin and the coolant was pouring out faster than the drain pan could take. Wow.
 

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"a little" = everything in the head and in the water pipe behind the motor.

"a lot" = everything in the block, the head, the heater core, and the radiator as well as the lines.


and count the teeth on you old belt and your new one...if they are different..the new one is the wrong one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will probably count the teeth tonight. I was way too frustrated to count them while I was working on it. I know damn sure it's too long though. If I hold them next to eachother and stretch them out with my thumbs, one still has slack while the other is tight.
 

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i got my belt from the dealer. a little more cost, but i got the right belt the first time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well I have never, ever had an issue with a part from the local NAPA when I lived in PA (the place I got this belt from) so I had no reason to suspect otherwise. I don't know 100% that it's wrong yet either. I'm damn sure though. I'm going to go count the teeth.

EDIT: Looks like I was wrong. They have the same amount of teeth. I can't figure out why the new one has less slack in it though. This is incredibly frustrating. I'll be picking up another belt from CarQuest tomorrow so I'll give that one a shot and see what happens. If I struggle with that one too, then I'm not sure what else to do.

Any tips for getting the belt on? How hard should I have to pull down on tensioner for the belt to be loose enough? Should I put the belt on the cam cogs first or the crank teeth?
 

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new belts usually seem shorter than worn ones.
not by enough to say "thats definitely the wrong one" but enough to make you question it.
are you gonna return the belt to napa?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm going to see if the local NAPA here will let me return it. I bought it in PA when I was home for Christmas because I was trying to get the parts together for the timing belt job when I came back down here to FL.

I really can't think of anything else I can do to try to get the new belt on. I'm contemplating trying it again tomorrow morning since I can't pick up the belt from CarQuest until ~1pm but I don't want to be wasting my time.

I really wish I could get this belt to work. It's a genuine Gates and I'd like to have a quality belt on it. I'm not sure what brand the CarQuest one will be.
 

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dude, just bring the Napa belt with you when you get the other new one and compair them right there, if they are both the same length, then you know for a fact that its just that your old timing belt is just a loose sloppy whore!

:)
 

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usually you put a belt on by how the engine rotates and put it on first by the crank making sure the cams dont move, or if they do, to align them before putting the belt on. i usually mark the belt by both cam marks and crank mark then mark my new belt so i would know that itsm where its suppose to be. anyway good luck and dont put the belt on too tight!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I got everything back together. I was able to get the NAPA belt on. It took a lot of finagling but I got it on and the car runs.

Unfortunately, it started surging at idle once the car sat running for a few minutes. It surges from 1000-1700rpm and I'm not sure why. I'm guessing it's a vacuum leak but I looked over the engine a few more times and can't find anything unhooked. It's still low on coolant due to the flood from taking the water pump off but I'm not running it anymore until I can get some more coolant in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
From doing a little searching, it seems very likely that it's the low coolant. I'll head out to pick some up now.
 

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From doing a little searching, it seems very likely that it's the low coolant. I'll head out to pick some up now.
if adding coolant doesnt fix the surging problem(make sure you bleed it again) then check the fast idle valve(FIV) its a very common problem with the idle surging....just search for fast idle valve adjustment if you need to know how to adjust it,its easy you just screw the plastic washer looking thing in the valve all the way down, finger tight, until it stops turning and then your done.
 
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