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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I think shorter gearbox would be better for touge action so I can do something like.

I have D2J4 (edit: not D2J5 as I wrote before) gearbox witch ratios are:
1st 3.166
2nd 1.857
3rd 1.259
4th 0.935
5th 0.794
R 3.000
Final ratio 4.178

I can get second gearbox for few bucks like 100$ and change few gears.

D2A4 gearbox
1st 3.307
2nd 1.809
3rd 1.269
4th 0.935
5th 0.794
R 3.000
Final ratio 4.266

So now I can get Final ratio, 1st and 3rd gear to shorten gearbox ratios.
It will be something like:

1st 3.307
2nd 1.857
3rd 1.269
4th 0.935
5th 0.794
R 3.000
Final ratio 4.266

What you think? Good idea or not worth of trying?
 

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For those extremely tiny ratio differences it's not even worth considering.

Unless you have both 'boxes apart already and can't decide which ones to use.

Otherwise forget it.

the shorter FD would be a help but so would running lower aspect tyres.
 

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Even with the final drive, im pretty sure 1st gear would have the only noticeable difference.

i agree with 88SElude, the tires would probably get you the same results
 

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in truth for a touge...or downhill race i cant see having shorter gears being that much of an advantage solely that our cars dont make that much power up top and the time spent our of gear shifting could be spent on the throttle.

note: a few years ago i think it was .... not skoda....citroen? who ever gielles panizzi (not spelled right) drove for in wrc that went to a 4spd gear box. the idea was that they made enough pwoer to turn those gears but by cutting down the number of shifts you could spend more time accelorating and actually racing.

cant remember if that worked or not but you get the idea
 

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BTW 4th, where did you get those gear ratios from?
Some of them don't look right to me.
Particularly the FD ratios.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
88SE Lude said:
BTW 4th, where did you get those gear ratios from?
Some of them don't look right to me.
Particularly the FD ratios.
From:
http://prelude3web.com/spec.html

If they are wrong, please tell me witch one are correct, I will tell the site owner to check/change it.

konvict 1 said:
in truth for a touge...or downhill race i cant see having shorter gears being that much of an advantage solely that our cars dont make that much power up top and the time spent our of gear shifting could be spent on the throttle.
On a real touge you have got many, many turns, so you need to accelerate a lot faster, it is almost like breaking to the limits, tight turn then acceleration till next corner :)

Second thing you need to stay in torque band, with short gear ratios you can easily do this.

That's why I need shorter gear ratios, if they will geave me even a half of a second I will get them :)

Building that transmission is cheap, and still i can sell the other one, with longer gear ratios.
 

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I have D2J5 gearbox witch ratios are:
1st 3.166
2nd 1.857
3rd 1.259
4th 0.935
5th 0.794
R 3.000
Final ratio 4.178
That's what did it.
Either it's a D2J4 or it's 4.062 FD for the D2J5
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry my bad, I have D2J4 not D2J5 gearbox :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hondamonster said:
i have done some togue myself and don't see how i could benefit from any shorter ratios
Have you ever hit a 170-180km/h (~105-110mph) on touge? I have never done it, that's why I need shorter gearing and better engine.

Hondamonster said:
maybe thats just preference
Or a road type. The best ones are like this:



I have never found as good pass like this, but can find preety similar.

Preludegofast13 said:
maybe you should just add some power?
Yes, I know that, but i can't add as much as I need and stay NA.

Preludegofast13 said:
BTW, how did you get a "high revving" B20?
Still rebuilding, want to rev it to 7.8-8krpm's on better rods, pistons, rings and bearings. Tuned on Crome. I know that it is not high but for b20 it can be even too high.
 

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Have you ever hit a 170-180km/h (~105-110mph) on touge? I have never done it, that's why I need shorter gearing and better engine.


Or a road type. The best ones are like this:



I have never found as good pass like this, but can find preety similar.


Yes, I know that, but i can't add as much as I need and stay NA.


Still rebuilding, want to rev it to 7.8-8krpm's on better rods, pistons, rings and bearings. Tuned on Crome. I know that it is not high but for b20 it can be even too high.
that road looks hella fun! and actually, i've gone about 100, maybe slightly faster, on a run before. call it road type or preference or whatever you want, but the bottom line is that our b20a's don't like revving that high and are much better off using the torque they already have. they are geared to take the best advantage of that torque for a street car already. not saying you can't improve on a good thing, i just personally think the benefits wouldn't outweigh the costs in the situation you're talking about. not for me anyway, but hey, be different and go for it!
 

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concentrate on oiling that rotating assembly more so then stronger rods.

And I carve through my mountain trails here in so cal. I actually want another stock 3GP just for this. I miss my B20A setup. There isn't enough room here at redbox (my fav spot) to hit anything over 90mph. Even in a sick fast car... not enough room.

If you're having problems getting up to speed, I highly recommend reworking your engine. The gearing on the prelude is very nicely placed for this type of driving in my eyes. But then again, I live in california.



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