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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ATTENTION: READ BEFORE THE REST OF THE THREAD

Here is an update. Many things have changed since I last posted in here. Looking back on this thread makes me sad in a lot of ways. Firstly, I wasted a lot of money modifying a car that I couldn't even drive. In stock form that prelude had a lot to offer me, but instead of learning to drive the car at the limit, I simply modified it thinking I knew better than honda and could easily change it to make it better. Funny thing is I had no idea what I was even changing or really why. It was simply what forums had led me to believe was necessary to have a car that "handles well". So I did it. I didn't know any better, but whats worse is that I posted about it and may have lead people who knew even less than I did in the wrong direction which I hate thinking about. Anybody who knows performance driving could read this thread and tell that I was clearly very ignorant about what I was doing.

So why the change of heart?
Well I have been Autocrossing a bone stock 1991 Acura Integra 4 door for the past six months and it has taught me an incredible amount about driving a vehicle at the limit. Not this bullcrap canyon driving where you can only endanger yourself and others and MAYBE poke the limit with a stick every so often. This is an environment where you can truly explore the outer limits of a vehicle and see what YOU can do with it. This car has oodles of body roll any most peoples first reactions would be to throw some higher rate springs on there with some good shocks, maybe tie it down more with sway bars etc. But in my case that would be silly. Because after 6 months of autocross, even a moderately decent driver can hop in that car and around the same AutoX circuit, shave two whole seconds off my time. I still can't even get the most out of that STOCK car. Which really brings me to my point.

If you are truly pursuing performance, like I claimed I was in the beginning of this thread, learn to drive your current car in its stock form at the limit so you can actually know what needs to be changed to go faster. Go find a local track day or AutoX club and go to a few events and feel what your car does. Not only will you have a blast, but you will learn an incredible amount about driving.

So where does this leave the prelude?
It leaves the Prelude where it should have been all along. Stock. I haven't autocrossed it yet although I do plan to try it at some point this summer. Just want to see how it does. I have no plans to modify that car. I am going to keep it as a mildly personalized survivor car. Something that I do not ever plan to sell. It really is a special car and I love it to death even after owning one for 4 years.

Hopefully this post sums up my thoughts well enough. As always, any questions feel free to post them below. When I do AutoX the prelude, Ill be sure to post it here though...

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE


The Name Of The Game:
The reason I am calling this build "OEM+" is because of the focus of the car and the look I am going after. This will be a car built with function above almost all else. Refinement following a close second. The function you ask? To devour a corner, but not rattle your senses to bits on the way home. So many cars seem to be built with either looks or just raw performance in mind. I am going for something more challenging. An OEM attention to noise, vibration, and harshness in addition to increased cornering performance. I want this car to be as if Honda released it to the masses.


The Car
The prelude I am starting with is a cherry. I drove all the way to San Francisco to buy her. Its a pearl white 2001 Sh prelude. It was purchased by a grandmother new and passed through the family. She had 103,000 miles when I bought her a few months back in September of 2016. Just had a new timing belt and clutch installed by a dealership up north. She was completely stock when I got a hold of her. Not anymore. I will post photos of the mods I have done and then update the thread as I do more.



Here are some photos of the car to begin with

1105161651 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161651a by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161651b by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161652 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161652a by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
First Mods, Interior Mods.

The first thing I do when I get a car for the first time is get the interior basics squared away. This prelude is no different. As such I installed a pioneer AVIC 5100NEX headunit with GPS and bluetooth. Firstly I love the way these headunits work and I love the way they sound and I love the way they look. Next I installed some 6.5 kicker speakers in the doors and some 6x9 kickers in the rear deck. Nothing crazy, just something so my Steely Dan comes through nice and clear. They were the perfect blend of Jazz and Rock you know. I am considering swapping to some component JBL's in the future. I then installed my wireless charging into the center console. Write-up link here: http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=443665

I then installed the optional OEM carbon fiber trim kit along with a nice metal shift knob and a Redline leather goods shift boot and center armrest cover with red accent stitching. The shift knob really improves shifting feel and shortens the throws a tad by being lower. Its red lettering also accents the shift boot quite nicely I think.


1105161739 by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161739b by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1105161740 by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Lighting and Exhaust

Next I purchased used some depo headlights which had been retrofitted with morimoto projectors. I also bought some OEM JDM foglights and an Apexi WS2 catback exhaust. The headlights have 35W ballasts with 6k bulb temperatures. I chose the exhaust because of the fact that its a very subtle yet very nice sounding unit. Its relatively quiet which means you hear it when you want to but when you are just cruising on the highway, it goes away. It doesn't drone at all just like an OEM exhaust but sounds great too. The best of both worlds. The headlights were a tad hazy so I wet sanded and clear coated them to give them a brand new and long lasting finish. I did the same with the foglights.

1120161159 by Michael Russell, on Flickr


1118160917 by Michael Russell, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Feel free to comment on this list or give recommendations. Some parts I already have. Most I do not. The ones bolded are the ones I have installed on the car currently.

Intended Parts List: Completed on page:
Suspension:
-BC racing BR coilovers Pg. 1
-ST suspensions rear sway bar Pg. 1

-Type S strut bar
-Superpro Rear Sway Bar Endlinks Pg. 3
-Performance alignment Pg. 1
-Swift Springs Pg. 2

- SPC front upper camber ball joints

Brakes:
-EBC USR slotted rotors Pg. 2
-EBC green stuff pads Pg. 2

-Stop Tech steel braided brake lines

Engine:
-Vibrant header
-Type S intake
-Apexi WS2 Catback Pg. 1
-Mfactory 10lb flywheel
-Mishimoto Radiator with slim fans

Transmission:
-Synchrotech trans w/ carbon synchros
-Torco conventional MTF
-Exedy OEM clutch

Wheels and Tires:
-17x7 +47 Work CR Kiwami wheels in GT Silver
-Michelin Pilot Super Sports size 205/45/R17

Exterior:
-OEM optional side skirts. Maybe Lip.
-Mugen Rep flush mount wing
-Retrofitted headlights Pg. 1
-JDM foglights Pg. 1
-Clear sidemarkers Pg. 3
-Tint Pg. 3
-Fixing dent on front left fender Pg. 3


Interior:
-ITR recaro seats OR s2000 seats with adapted rails
-JDM carbon fiber dash kit Pg. 1
-Redline leather goods shift boot, center armrest, and door panel covers with red stitching Pg. 1
-Pioneer AVIC 5100NEX headunit w/ GPS and bluetooth Pg. 1
-Wireless charging Pg.1
-JBL component speakers Pg. 2

-Alpine 5 Channel amp 75Wx4 250Wx1 both RMS
-8 Inch subwoofer underneath rear trunk
-Sound deading? Maybe. Not sure.
-Digital oil pressure gauge
-LoJack system
-Viper Alarm
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Definitely do the front lip. It looks so much better with a front lip!

How far did you want to go with the performance aspect?
Engine wise, nothing crazy. Really just bolt on's for the most part. I need to keep that Honda reliability. Maybe once this engine wears out Ill do a Type S swap but keep it OBD2 to save myself from the pitfalls of aftermarket tuning. Also I love honda NA engines so no supercharger or turbo for me.

Suspension wise, I am getting the coilovers partially as a Christmas gift and I have an appointment to get an alignment done Tuesday the 27th. I think that will determine the performance there. The place is called West End Alignments and they do corner balancing and all sorts of suspension wizardry to get the car to rotate better and just feel more sporty. They explained some of it briefly to me on the phone and it really sounds like they know what they are doing. I also have an ST suspensions sway bar which I have already purchased but am waiting to put on until after the alignment. If they work their magic and I want still more rotation then I can always add it after the fact.

I really just want the car to be an epic canyon cruiser. Maybe do the occasional track day. At the end of the day, my goal is to gain a good increase in performance while keeping an OEM like refinement and quietness.

But to put the ball in your court, based on your picture it looks like you have tracked your car. What is the best thing you feel you have done to it performance wise?
 

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With the SH, to keep the ECU you're very limited engine-wise anyway. :) Without the ECU, the ATTS is useless.

I would skip the corner weighting if you don't have adjustable endlinks on the sway bars. If not, you're just going to end up with a bunch of preload on the sway bars, and it may not handle as well as you hope.

I really just want the car to be an epic canyon cruiser. Maybe do the occasional track day. At the end of the day, my goal is to gain a good increase in performance while keeping an OEM like refinement and quietness.
Those things are generally mutually exclusive. To really get the car to handle, you're going to need fairly stiff springs and shocks that are valved to handle those spring rates.


But to put the ball in your court, based on your picture it looks like you have tracked your car. What is the best thing you feel you have done to it performance wise?
My Prelude is a dedicated track car. There is no "one best" thing that I've done, as it all pretty much works as a system. If you cornered me and made me choose, I'd say the Koni 2812 shocks; however that's a bit of a loaded question because the shocks are useless without the Hyperco springs and custom shock mounts. This is no street car setup, though. I run anywhere from 900-1100 lb/in (16 - 20 kg/mm) front and 900-1200 lb/in (16 - 21 kg/mm) rear springs on the car. I also use a Tanabe front sway bar with a custom 32mm rear sway bar, adjustable endlinks, and spherical bearings throughout.

This is one of the better pictures I could find of the front shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
With the SH, to keep the ECU you're very limited engine-wise anyway. :) Without the ECU, the ATTS is useless.

I would skip the corner weighting if you don't have adjustable endlinks on the sway bars. If not, you're just going to end up with a bunch of preload on the sway bars, and it may not handle as well as you hope.



Those things are generally mutually exclusive. To really get the car to handle, you're going to need fairly stiff springs and shocks that are valved to handle those spring rates.

Wow. I just found your build thread and geeze. That's some serious stuff you got going on over there. I cant remember ever seeing a prelude that looked like a true race car through and through. Some amazing attention to detail you got as well.

Its true I am limited in terms of engines. Type S is basically the only swap I can do unless I delete the ATTS. But I dont want to delete it. Not only does the technology fascinate me, but it is a nice system to have on a car with a relatively stock power train.

I suspect the coilovers will give me an adequate increase in performance without ruining refinement. People claim BC's ride pretty well. Its true though, with performance mods you always give up something in terms of noise, vibration, and harshness in exchange for something else. I guess my goal is to find the perfect compromise for me personally.

Your comment on corner balancing intrigues me though. I need to go do some reading on the topic.
 

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To really get the most out of corner weighting, you need to set the corner weights without the sway bars connected, then install the sway bar end links so that there is no preload on the bars at static ride height (with you in the car, of course, just like when you do the corner weighting and alignment).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To really get the most out of corner weighting, you need to set the corner weights without the sway bars connected, then install the sway bar end links so that there is no preload on the bars at static ride height (with you in the car, of course, just like when you do the corner weighting and alignment).
Thank you for the info. After I found a couple articles on how they adjust it, it became clear that that was what your concern was. As a result I am going to pick up some adjustable ones before I get the corner weighting done. This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping I might come across in creating this build thread.

I found some progress rear ones. I just need to find fronts.

Thanks again for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The BC's Have Arrived!

Here they are in all their glory. Nothing special setup wise on these guys. Simply what BC gives you from the factory. They are BR series coils with 10K front 5K rear springs with shocks valved to match. No extreme low option selected because I don't hate myself. Also it has the rubber bushings because ride quality is still a concern of mine. Here are some pictures.

1215161039_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161043_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161101_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161101a_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

1215161101c_HDR by Michael Russell, on Flickr

For some reason the top hats on the front coils have 5 studs. Maybe its a 4th gen thing. I dont know. I called BC and they said it was for a strut tower bar. Either way, my car does not need them nor does it have the place for them so the two smaller studs need to get pressed out according to them. The rep claimed they come out relatively easily. We shall see.
 

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Don't press out the studs. Inspect the shock towers, there will be two round stickers paint matched to the car. Just peel them off
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Don't press out the studs. Inspect the shock towers, there will be two round stickers paint matched to the car. Just peel them off
Depends on what strut bar I decide to go with. If i dont go with the type s then I am going to press the studs out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks great, i am interested in a set of BC's for my lude. I think the stock suspension needs improvement.
Thanks. I will definitely post my thoughts on what they are like on here once installed.
 

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The type s strut bar is pretty beefy and one piece, consider it
 
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