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Discussion Starter #1
today i started to sand my car so i can primer it because i am starting to see my paint flake off and shit like that like sun burn spots and that good i started to use 600 grit is that good or should i get a rougher grit. well if yall have any tips or any thing it would be nice i got a sanding block and the sand paper so far.
 

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sand it down real good on all the peeling areas, you will want to pick up a orbital sander from walmart for $40....
use 320 to get all the peeling paint off, then prime, and smooth it over with a sanding block and 400 grit.
dont use that 600 grit you have, its too fine, dont bother.
My Prelude was peeling BAAD, but I got the whole car prepped and ready for paint in an afternoon.....
 

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im an automotive painter. personally and trained. start with 100 grit sanding sponge-block, then after sanded evenly with that, sand again with 300-320 grit. once sanded smooth with 300-320 grit, prime it with 3-4 coats, and lightly sand it again with 320 grit carefully as to not sand through the primer. wetsanding all stages is best and cleanest and smoothest.

i use a hard sanding block with 100 grit sandpaper for the first stage for an even surface, and 3m wetsanding 100 grit and 320 grit sanding sponges for the next few stages and it works perfectly. never sand with finer grit than 350 grit when prepping for paint. its too fine and the paint/primer/clear wont stick to it properly
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
when i sand it all i need to do is sand the clear coat off right.

i am just primering it untill i get enough money to get it painted which will be soon do you think it will be cheaper becauce i aready primed it. i dont know much about painting so thinks for the tips
 

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pretty much yeah. the proper way to do it is sand to bare metal everywhere. but sanding off just the clear coat is good enough for a lasting paint job. just make sure you sand all loose paint/clear coat completely off. if any flaking paint/clear is left intact, it creates a bubble of air and moisture and will bubble and rust further in the very near future.

anywhere there is rust, you need to sand/grind down to bare metal and remove all rust and fill with filler or replace that section of metal. otherwise it will just rust that much faster with a fresh paint job that traps air and moisture in around the existing rust.
 

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About the primer.. I'm told you don't need it unless it's bare metal and you can just go right ahead with the base coat. For plastic you'll need a sealer though or the clearcoat is just gonna go right into the plastic.
 

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not true. you need to prime first no matter what you are painting over. the primer is a sealer and an adhesive for the paint and a scratch filler if you use etching/filler primer

for plastic, sealer does nothing. sealer is to prevent moisture from getting in and rusting the metal. and i have no idea what you are talking about with the clear going right into the plastic, thats not possible if you prime then paint then clear. for plastic you need a special additive for flexibility in the paint. if you just prime paint and clear coat a plastic bumper, any time the bumper flexes (which it will ALWAYS do) all 3 layers of "paint" will crack and chip. the additive needs to be added to the primer, paint, and clear coat for all plastic surfaces, or buy special primer paint and clear specifically made for plastic.
 
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