Honda Prelude Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well me and some friends were chillin and i checked my engine a bit and started to pull of some ignition wires first two were good then the next and the next made no change to the engine at all. I FREAKED! Anyway, i replaced plugs wires, and i know the wires are getting spark, cause i could hear it ark if i held the end of the wire to plug.(about a couple cm away). The engine shakes , theres oil comin out from around the spark plug, where it screws into the block. <---only from the 2 dead cylinders. Its the 2 closest to the dist. . Now its carbd, the fuunny thing thismorning i took it out for a boot and it was fine it ran, still had 2 dead cylinders though. came home replaced the wires with new ones and it wouldnt start, it fires evry now it will sound like a catch but nope jus keeps turning over, it also backfires out the carbs abit. If you need any more info lemme kniow ill try to be more specific. Thank you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,397 Posts
spark plugs? did you have the wrong wires to the ones that do work and caused it to backfire? i had my car running on 2 when i first bought it and thought the motor blew but in fact it was just water/oil from the detailer and had made the spark plugs useless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Preludesi_2004 said:
spark plugs? did you have the wrong wires to the ones that do work and caused it to backfire? i had my car running on 2 when i first bought it and thought the motor blew but in fact it was just water/oil from the detailer and had made the spark plugs useless.
Do you know the firing order for the carbd model??? is it 1 2 3 4??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,644 Posts
Look at the distributor cap. It should have roman numerals like ll, l, lll, llll, going left to right.

(German style roman numerals... llll instead of lV. )

In other words..looking at the cap the wires go 2-1-coil wire-3-4 , left to right.

same as the firing order 1-3-4-2 except that it starts with 2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
dano said:
Look at the distributor cap. It should have roman numerals like ll, l, lll, llll, going left to right.

(German style roman numerals... llll instead of lV. )

In other words..looking at the cap the wires go 2-1-coil wire-3-4 , left to right.

same as the firing order 1-3-4-2 except that it starts with 2.
My cap is numbered. U do know its carbd right? So where i plug the wires onto the top of the spark plugs its 1 3 4 2 ???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,397 Posts
shit, i think i have mine 1 2 4 3 :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
dano said:
Opps...didn't realize it was a "S" carbed model.

Ok..that means that the distributor cap is numbered

4-2-1-3 Left to right...same fireing order (1-3-4-2) except starting with "4"
OK im really sorrry to be a pain in the ass, butr i dont get it. Ok yesterday i finally got 3 cylinders back. I hthink for some reason the left carb is not shooting gas into the combustion chamber like it should. My buddy told me the top of my spark plugs looked like they have been washed. OK right now i got the dizzy cap all good, jus need to know the order to plug them onto the spark plugs. I jus really need to make sure cause im really close. I think that what ur telling me is to plug them on the spark plugs as 1-3-4-2 but except starting with 4??<---thats where i got confused.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,644 Posts
Ok.. you are looking at the distributor cap from over the fender right ?

The spark plug wires go in starting with the leftmost tower. #4 then moving to the right, #2, then #1 and lastly, #3.

Cylinders are numbered from the drivebelt end of the engine #1, #2, #3, #4. That means #4 is closest to the distributor cap.

I got got the distributor cap numbering from the Chilton manual. I assume they are right.

:turn:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
dano said:
Ok.. you are looking at the distributor cap from over the fender right ?

The spark plug wires go in starting with the leftmost tower. #4 then moving to the right, #2, then #1 and lastly, #3.

Cylinders are numbered from the drivebelt end of the engine #1, #2, #3, #4. That means #4 is closest to the distributor cap.

I got got the distributor cap numbering from the Chilton manual. I assume they are right.

:turn:
OK got it. I guess the wires can only got so far. Sometimes i jus get really confused? Anyways thanks i think i got it . but my car still has no cylinder 4.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,644 Posts
Maybe a bad wire.. Pull the wire from the spark plug. Plug a phillips head screwdriver into the end of the wire, now hold the screwdriver shaft close to something with bare metal....do you get a spark ? If not it may be a bad wire or if it's an old cap there may be carbon tracking inside shorting out the #4 tower. Clean the inside with steel wool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
dano said:
Maybe a bad wire.. Pull the wire from the spark plug. Plug a phillips head screwdriver into the end of the wire, now hold the screwdriver shaft close to something with bare metal....do you get a spark ? If not it may be a bad wire or if it's an old cap there may be carbon tracking inside shorting out the #4 tower. Clean the inside with steel wool.
Funny you say that cause i did clean some of the contacts in the cap and then noticed the #3 cylinder start to work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE: OK so me and my buddy figure the left carb isnt shooting enough gas into the cylinder for it to fire. the left carb looks like it controls the gas for #4 and #3 cylinder. But i have started to get #3 back. Their's lots of compression lots of spark. So anyone with some info please??? And jus a random question.....If i polished my intake manifold and increased airflow would i have to get a fuel pressure regulator??? cause maybe i need to boost the gas flow??? Jus a random question???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
your airflow won't really increase like a Fuel Injected engine will, yes that will help but what really controls airflow is the throtes of the carb. You cann't put an adjustable fuel regulator on your car, it is carbed. Fuel regulators are for fuel injected engines, you psi won't need to go up anyways, what would need to be changed would be the size of the metering rods and jets. That requires you to have acces to a dyno for proper tuning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Well some reason i dont have a clue as to what is goin on??? my check engine throws the code 4, vacumm switch. but i replaced it and all the damm hoses. Ive started to get back cylinder 3 but barely makes a diff. when i pull the plug off, but it is noticeble.
Maybe its a spark issue, but i know it is getting spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Quick note on your air/fuel question. In a carburetted engine, the fuel pump puts out like 3psi, just to move the fuel from the tank to fill the pool(s) inside the carb(s). It'll pretty much never need more than the stock psi, unless you go for 200+whp and full race carbs and cams. Or something.

A fuel-injected engine is quite different in that the pump has to provide a pretty high (~40+ psi) pressure, and the injectors are basically little valves that "let" the fuel squirt out. This is why people upgrade their pumps and injectors-- to put a higher pressure behind the nozzle and also a bigger nozzle.

I bet your problem is still spark-related. When you pull out plug #4 after running for a minute, does the plug look wet and smell like gasoline? Have you tested the #4 wire with a screwdriver yet? Got money for new plug wires?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
alanoneil said:
Quick note on your air/fuel question. In a carburetted engine, the fuel pump puts out like 3psi, just to move the fuel from the tank to fill the pool(s) inside the carb(s). It'll pretty much never need more than the stock psi, unless you go for 200+whp and full race carbs and cams. Or something.

A fuel-injected engine is quite different in that the pump has to provide a pretty high (~40+ psi) pressure, and the injectors are basically little valves that "let" the fuel squirt out. This is why people upgrade their pumps and injectors-- to put a higher pressure behind the nozzle and also a bigger nozzle.

I bet your problem is still spark-related. When you pull out plug #4 after running for a minute, does the plug look wet and smell like gasoline? Have you tested the #4 wire with a screwdriver yet? Got money for new plug wires?
Actually i did purchase new wires. The car ran a bit better, but i also think its spark related. I dont seem to think #4 cylinsder is getting enough spark, but i know all cylinders are getting spark cause when u take the wire off the plug a lil you can hear it igniting. But if #4 fires first dont you think it would be getting all kinds of spark??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
It doesn't matter which is "first". Where is the beginning of a circle? They're all "first"... Or do you mean because it's closest to the distributor? because that doesn't really make a difference either.

Again, did you check the plugs for fouling?
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top