Okay guys, I need to remove my cross drilled rotors and the stupid screws that hold them in place took a crap. So I can not remove them with a screwdriver, or anything like that. A. is the a way that someone knows on how to remove the rotors without takeing out the screws.(of course I do not want to damage them.) B. can I use something like a counterscrew? I think thats what its called.
I had that happen to me. I cut the slot in the screw bigger and then used a cold chisel and hammer to remove them. Or, just drill the head of the screw off.
Use a screw extractor, but you would need to replace the bolt witch you drill a hole threw the middle of the screw and get the backwards bit thingy and stick it into the hole you just drilled and unscrew it. this kit helps me out a lot good to have. only other bet is to cut a strait line through the bolt to remake the screwdriver end
nobody has said impact screwdriver yet... its a tool that you hit with a hammer into the screw and it applies a twisting force while holding the phillips head in the screw. pops them loose every time. thats the correct way to do it.
*edit* unless by "took a crap" you mean they're stripped out and you can't unscrew them, period... in which case you drill the heads off and leave them out like everyone else already said.
If you hadn't already screwed up the + pattern you are suppose to use an impact screwdriver to get them loose with a bfh. Its just a heavy duty emphasis on the heavy, screwdriver that has a metal hammer spot on its head.
If by "screws took a crap" you mean stripped head, then the best way would be to use a screw extractor like Cyote said above. I had the same thing happen to me, easiest fix was using an extractor like below:
but the first option is the impact driver... with the correct head!
Next easiest is a small dot punch or similar (even a screwdriver can work) and just tap the edge around to loosen it off then undo with normal screwdriver.
And when re-fitting always use a dab of copper grease and next time they'll be a damn sight easier to take out.
As with almost every bolt on the car that siezes over time it's only because no copper grease has been used on them.
Copper Grease ?? I think we (US) call that Hi Temp Anti Seize (with copper). I use this on just about all my bolts. A habit left over from living in the Northern US most of my life.
Yep..you really don't need those screws. If you are working on the brakes and the loose caliper becomes a pain, just thread on one of the lug nuts.
I use one of those hand held impact drivers mentioned above. It will either break the screw loose, strip the X, or snap the head off. Handy little tool, you smack the end with a hammer and it turns the driver like 90 degrees with considerable force.
another +1 for not putting them in and drilling them out to get the rotor off. I havent had any problems with mine since I put my powerslots on over a year ago.
and I prefer them to be there.
But then I am changing pads more than most of you lot do so I like not to have to play with a wobbly disc when swapping pads in a hurry.
On a road only car they still do their job but it's less of a pain if they're not there.
But I've still no idea why people are going to the trouble of drilling them and even goign further and gettign easy-outs/extractors.
Far more involved than what's needed unless you've really been very ham-fisted in the first place.
In doing hundreds of these over the years I've only ever had to drill out one.
One more thing. If you have to drill them out, be sure there is no trace of the screw sticking out of the hub flange. Because you no longer have to line up the rotor screw holes with the holes in the hub flange, you have a situation where the rotor doesn't seat completely.
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