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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today i was driving around in town when my oil indicator light starts flickering on and off.. I was like "F*CK!" i just replaced my clutch 2 months ago, 4 months before that, my timing belt broke, and since i have a JDM F22B my car was out of commission for 2 months cuz I couldnt find the belts, or water pump (not to mention the mechanics were telling me that my motor was 2.3 liter and the belt they had would fit) NOPE! its even more BS the fact that i work at the honda east liberty auto plant and the people at the honda of america service center dont even know what a JDM f22b is. I was out on my own to get my car in running condition myself i had no other choice. i couldve used the b18 belt but it was too wide. the only other 126 tooth belt that fit was that of a dodge 1985-87 caravan. ok to the point.. enough f ing around with the jdm f22b. im getting a new motor
and the meaning of this thread is to get some peoples input on this. i dont know any true facts, just a lot of hype. so bear with me.

jdm f20b
pros: high revving
vtec
200hp
non-fmr sleeves are they cast iron?
cons: jdm motor wont know how many miles
smaller displacement
would i need motor mounts
obd 2
would it fit my tranny
would i be able to find parts

jdm h22a
pros: vtec
200hp
more common
drop right in
obd 1
cons: fmr sleeves
auto tensioner failure
would it fit my tranny
how many miles

jdm f22b
pros: cast iron sleeves
similar to h23
low price
obd 1
cons:cant find parts
no knock sensor = cel
miles?
no vtec

opinions?
 

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Sorry to hear about your story. Rod knocks do F****** suck.
From what I read I heard you couldve used the 96-01 GSR timing belt.


The F20B is cheaper than the H22 and has iron sleeves.Its just a destroked H22.
I dont think itll be a pain in the ass to convert it to OBD1 and no you do not need new mounts and yes itll fit your tranny.

Ok,the all to common H22. It has more torque than the F20B due to its to its larger displacement. As for the auto tensioner,ditch that a get an H23 manual tensioner.
This too will just bolt up to your tranny no problems.

Well as far as the F22B,this mine as well be an excuse to get a better motor thats stated above this.lol:tounge:
Also the correct ECU for this motor is the P39,which is a rare ass ECU.



Just get the H22. No Regrets 8)
Just my .o2 cents
 

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go with the H22. I just did the manual tensioner swap today. It was really easy. Get the H22 wayyy easier to deal with. FRM sleeves aren't bad. They just cant have forged pistons in them. Heres a link for the manual tensioner swap.

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229140

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry to hear about your story. Rod knocks do F****** suck.
From what I read I heard you couldve used the 96-01 GSR timing belt.


The F20B is cheaper than the H22 and has iron sleeves.Its just a destroked H22.
I dont think itll be a pain in the ass to convert it to OBD1 and no you do not need new mounts and yes itll fit your tranny.

Ok,the all to common H22. It has more torque than the F20B due to its to its larger displacement. As for the auto tensioner,ditch that a get an H23 manual tensioner.
This too will just bolt up to your tranny no problems.

Well as far as the F22B,this mine as well be an excuse to get a better motor thats stated above this.lol:tounge:
Also the correct ECU for this motor is the P39,which is a rare ass ECU.



Just get the H22. No Regrets 8)
Just my .o2 cents
thank you redluder for your 2 cents.

now, is the power increase from a 160hp engine to a 200hp engine
very noticeable, is it like night and day or is it a little

and
about the motor swap
i was referred to hmotorsonline by my tuner shop
should i get the motor there or elsewhere?
i know they have a 100% start up guarantee
all i really want and need is a reliable powerful motor
and when i say reliable i want it to last a long time.
so ill get the engine only, with the p13 ecm, harness, sensors
with the manual tensioner swap ill replace the timing belt
what else am i forgetting..........

while the motor is out of the car would it be wise to have them do a tear down and inspect anything?

should i go ahead and beef up the bottom end before it goes in the car?

i suppose you can do head work with out taking the motor out i dunno?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
go with the H22. I just did the manual tensioner swap today. It was really easy. Get the H22 wayyy easier to deal with. FRM sleeves aren't bad. They just cant have forged pistons in them. Heres a link for the manual tensioner swap.

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229140

Ive read that mahle or some company im not sure which makes a gold series piston that is forged and special made to go into the fmr sleeves im not sure, does anyone know more about this and the quality, price?
 

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Ive read that mahle or some company im not sure which makes a gold series piston that is forged and special made to go into the fmr sleeves im not sure, does anyone know more about this and the quality, price?
that would be mahle. As for the quality there not bad at all. Ive seen a civic on streetfire with them and stock rods run over 20 psi. I also asked him what he doesnt like about them and this is what I got in response " The only thing I can say I don't like about them is the piston slap you get before the car is warmed up. But like all forged pistons this is normal"

Jun also makes some but you have to use there rods from what I remember.

Herer is a vid of that civic im talking about.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/jax-fl-civic-h22-turbo-vs_155822.htm
 
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