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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As some of you guys know, I have a lengthy build thread that has become a bit disorganized over the past couple of years (plus progress has not been nearly as fast as I anticipated), so to keep things more up-to-date and organized, here is a new thread! :D

I purchased the Prelude new in 98, drove it for a few years, then decided to build it. It actually sat in the garage for quite a few years, until 2005 when the cage was fabricated. I have not raced since 2008, but I'm hoping to get the car back out on track sometime in early 2014.

Some things have changed over time, so here's the new setup.
Engine:
F20B block and crank
- Darton MID sleeves (88mm bore)
- CP pistons (short comp height, DLC coated wrist pins, approx 11.5:1 static CR, skirt and dome coatings)
- Carrillo tapered H beam rods (long rod length for ~1.73 R/S ratio)
- Calico coated bearings
- Massaged OEM oil pump

H22 head
- 4Piston CNC port work
- Quench pads machined to uniform depth and matching 88mm bore
- Ferrea Comp + valves, valve springs and retainers, locks, seals, and guides
- BeCu exhaust valve seats
- Ferrea roller rockers
- Web roller cams
- Crower cam gears with T1 cam gear trigger kit (will swap to Rosko custom cam gears when they are done)

Other Engine:
Motec M400 ECU
GTX2867R turbo w/Tial 0.86 housing
Tial MVS wastegate
Tial Q blowoff valve
Garrett core intercooler
ID1300 Injectors w/Rosko fuel rail
KTuned 80mm TB
ATI crank pulley
3" stainless exaust with 3" core x 22" OAL custom Coast Fab muffler
Setrab oil cooler w/Mocal thermostatic sandwich adapter & -12AN plumbing
Setrab trans cooler w/Tilton pump
Custom radiator that is tilted forward to maximize the size of the radiator used (upper and lower core supports have been modified)
Meziere WP381S radiator mounted water pump

Trans:
T2W4 Trans
MFactory clutch pack LSD
MFactory 4.64 FD
OEM T2W4 1st - 3rd gear sets
B16 4th gear set
4Gen VTEC 5th gear set
Carbon coated synchro rings
Powertrain Technology 5.5" twin disk clutch
Custom Fidanza flywheel
Tilton HRB

Suspension:
Koni 2812LB shocks
Hypercoil spring w/H&R helpers
Tanabe tubular front sway bar
Custom 3-piece rear sway bar w/1.25" x 0.188" center section
Adjustable sway bar end links
Spherical bearings throughout suspension

Brakes:
Wilwood SL6 front and Powerlite rear calipers
Wilwood 12.9" x 1.25" GT front rotors (converted to full floating rotors)
Wilwood 11.66" x 0.72" GT rear rotors
Tilton adjustable prop valve
Custom dual master cylinder brake setup with Tilton master cylinders
Stainless hard line & stainless braid soft line

Wheels & Tires:
Enkei PF01, 17"x9", +35mm offset
Enkei GTC01, 17x9.5" +38mm offset (will need ~4mm spacers)
Hoosier 225/40/17 R7 tires

Interior:
OMP HTE-R XL Seat
Personal steering wheel w/RaceTech QR
Safecraft 6 point harness
Safecraft RHS driver's net
Stroud window net
KTuned aluminum K-Series shifter w/KTuned shift cables
SPA AFFF fire system
Multi-point cage
Motec C125 datalogger/digital dash (with a ton of datalog sensors!)




Old setup:
Engine:
Motec M400 ECU
GTX2867R turbo w/Tial 0.86 housing
Tial MVS wastegate
Tial Q blowoff valve
Garrett core intercooler
ID1000 Injectors w/Rosko fuel rail
S2k throttle body
Euro R crank pulley
3" stainless exaust with 3" core x 22" OAL custom Coast Fab muffler
T1 breather
34-row Setrab oil cooler w/Mocal thermostatic sandwich adapter & -12AN plumbing
10-row Setrab trans cooler w/Tilton pump
Fluidyne radiator

Trans:
Kaaz LSD
Circuit Worx 4.714 FD
4Gen VTEC 4th-5th gears
Carbon coated synchro rings
Competition Clutch 6 puck sprung clutch
Competition Clutch light weight chromoly flywheel

Suspension:
Koni 2812LB shocks
Hypercoil spring w/H&R helpers
Tanabe tubular front sway bar
Custom 3-piece rear sway bar w/1.25" x 0.188" center section
Adjustable sway bar end links
Spherical bearings throughout suspension

Brakes:
Wilwood SL6 front and Powerlite rear calipers
Wilwood 12.9" x 1.25" GT front rotors (converted to full floating rotors)
Wilwood 11.66" x 0.72" GT rear rotors
Tilton adjustable prop valve
Civic 9" brake booster
Integra 1" MC
Stainless hard line & stainless braid soft line

Wheels & Tires:
Enkei PF01, 17" x 8.5", +40mm offset
Hoosier 225/40/17 R6

Interior:
Sabelt Taurus XL seat
Personal steering wheel w/RaceTech QR
Safecraft 6 point harness
Safecraft RHS driver's net
Stroud window net
KTuned aluminum K-Series shifter w/KTuned shift cables
SPA AFFF fire system
Multi-point cage
Motec C125 datalogger/digital dash
 

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Jealous of your driving position! The placement of the steering wheel, and shifter looks perfect! I wish I could just sit in your car and see what it all feels like together.

Did you ever drive with the engine setup minus the final drive? I only ask because my 4.64 final drive, and mfactory lsd installed into my freshly swapped M2S4 turned my single cam into a whole new beast, I could just imagine what that final drive did for you.

Great build, love eveything you have done so far!
 

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Greatest Prelude ever! I cannot wait to see this car on road and making miles!
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks guys; I appreciate the kind words.

Macaqueistrong, it's been so long since I've had the final drive that I cannot even remember what it's like to drive a Prelude with an OEM final drive. The final drive was put in long before my NA build. I can tell you that an FD will really liven up a car. I installed an MF 5.15 FD into a Prelude and that FD made a huge difference (he was also running much larger OD tires than I was, so the 5.15 FD made more sense for him).

Engine acquired! :D I'll unload it today or tomorrow, get it on the engine stand, and start tearing it down. Will likely sell what I can off of it other than the block and crank. If anyone is interested in parts (head, IM, rods & pistons, etc), please let me know! I'm planning to sleeve it, bore it out to 88mm, and put an H22 head on it. Still thinking about the other details. I'd love to put the Ferrea roller rocker setup on it, but I'm not 100% sure.



Here are some other build photos.




 

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Discussion Starter #9
Started tearing down the F20B.

After the AC compressor, alternator, both brackets, exhaust manifold, and intake manifold were pulled.


Valve cover is in really rough shape, note the broken tab on the oil cap (the oil pan was also crushed on one corner - it's stamped steel, not cast aluminum).


Head is stamped 99 4 A, and I didn't find a date code stamp like I've seen on USDM H22s. I'm assuming this is a date stamp, but not sure what the 4 and A stand for.


Head is also stamped PCB HF-1.



Block is stamped PCB.


The F20B doesn't use an OEM oil cooler/heater, so the water pipe does not have the provisions for the water lines. May cap the heater hose inlet and use this one instead of capping 3 lines on a USDM water pipe. Knock sensor came apart in my hands after barely tugging on the connector (which is pretty common).


Head looks good and nonsynthetic oil was used.




The Honda timing belt was in very good condition.


Too bad the crank pulley was chipped!



Left side engine mount bracket was mangled too; thankfully I have plenty of spares.


PIAA oil filter!


The F20B uses an extruded fuel rail like the EuroR.


Also uses a different EGR valve.
 

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You should add an "Exterior" section to your build list, can't forget those Lexan windows!

I'm both excited and scared for your F20b build. I considered one (from my racing armchair) for awhile, but decided that some parts were too rare and hard to get a hold of to make it practical for my purposes. However, I think with a COP conversion, it could be a good option. I assume you were sure to get the "manual" version of the motor?

Since your pockets seem inestimably deep, I doubt getting custom parts for it will be too much trouble, and when everything is custom, who cares about how hard OEM parts are to find?

Does your class allow for aftermarket internals? What are your plans for the intake manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, it is the manual version. They tried the hard sell on the trans, but I don't need a spare OEM LSD trans right now.

The class I race in is fairly open (TT3/ST3 in NASA http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/Super-Touring.pdf and TT3 follows the same classing, but it's a time trial instead of W2W). There are some restrictions, but engine parts are not part of those restrictions, so you can build an engine as crazy (and $$) as you prefer. The way the class is determined by a "modified" weight-to-power ratio. The base weight-to-power ratio is minimum race weight divided by WHP as measured on a Dynojet dyno. Then you modify the ratio with certain factors for configuration and setup, like a FWD gets a +1 added to the weight-to-power ratio. Here's how the calc works. I'm running a FWD car at 2,625 race weight with 225/40/17 Hoosier R6 DOT comp tires. For the class I plan to run in (ST3) the minimum modified weight-to-power ratio is 9:1. The modifiers are +1 for FWD, -0.4 for NonOEM Aero in ST3, +0.7 for 245 or smaller DOT tires, and -0.1 for 2,600 to 3,000 lbs race weight. Working backward, that gives me an allowable weight-to-power ratio of 7.8 lbs/whp. At 2,625 lbs, that works out to 336WHP. Even with the power advantage, I'm not sure that the car will be competitive (the driver certainly won't be!), but I want to go out on track, have fun driving, hopefully find some good racing, and improve my skills. I didn't build this car to be the fastest out on track. If that were the case, I would have sold the car and built a C5 Z06 (the hot car to have), and I probably would have spent the same amount of money, but I love my Prelude too much. Maybe I'm delusional? :D Plus, I kind of like the idea of taking a not-so-common car out to the track.

For the engine, much of it will have to be custom parts. No one makes OTS F20B rods. Right now, I'm considering Carrillo Pro SA rods with 11:1 CP pistons (88mm bore). I'll put a spare H22 head I have here on the block, and likely sell the F20B head unless the person doing the headwork thinks that the F20B will work better (it has 1mm smaller intake valves so there is likely more material to allow for port shaping). Headwork is kind of up in the air. I had my mind made up on the Ferrea roller rockers, but they're very expensive ($2k between the cams and the rockers) and not sure if that's the best option. However, I've torn up a few OEM rocker sets, and I'd like to keep that from happening with this engine. For the intake manifold, I'm thinking OEM H22 with Rosko's machine work applied to it. As for my budget, it's not unlimited. There's a reason why this has taken years to get done! :) While I am very blessed to have a very good job, it also helps to have a supportive wife that makes a lot more than you do. :p

Did you say something about lexan windows? There's a picture above! :) Can post a few more if anyone wants to see them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was able to try out a Christmas present today. HF 2.5 Qt Ultrasonic cleaner.

Before:





After a few heated 480 second cycles:






Not bad! Obviously doesn't do anything for corrosion, but for dirt and grime it works quite well. Cleaning solution I used was 2 parts water with 1 part concentrated Simple Green.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Need to get that pattern or something from you, Brian! I'll have to install one of those baffles on the oil pan for this engine. Interestingly enough, the oil pan on the F20B is stamped steel. Also interesting is the distributor can be adjusted. I'm sure this is because all the engine position sensors are in the distributor. I wonder why Honda did this for the JDM engines, but the USDM engines use the crank sensors. You would think (and this is an assumption with no evidence) that if the crank sensors were better, the JDM engines would use this as well. Just not sure the exact reason.

Right now, I'm thinking of going with Laskey with 88mm Benson sleeves, Carrillo Pro SA rods, and CP pistons. Thinking about using Portflow for the heads. Perhaps Skunk2 Pro1+ cams, stock valves, and some type of valvetrain to match the cams. I don't care for the Skunk2 stuff because they use Ti retainers. I like the Ferrea valve springs as they offer an optional tool steel retainer. The closest Ferrea spring setup is a bit stiffer than the Skunk2 springs (using published specs), so that is a bit concerning, as I don't want to go through the trashed cams and rockers thing again. I'm strongly considering the Ferrea roller setup, but it has plenty of disadvantages as well. Did find out that Laskey offers blasting for the exterior of the block for an additional $200. I'll probably do that to clean up the block as much as possible. So far, the interior has been very clean. The coolant passages look like fresh clean aluminum. I know the oil passages are stained from non-synthetic oil, which is no big deal, but hopefully there are no other surprises. :)

Anyway, I was able to tear the engine down to the bare head and block assembly. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the head off the block.


 

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I love it. I've read and followed along as often as possible. It's great to see a newer, less cluttered thread. Great job.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Block is nearly ready to ship out. I just need to take the back plate off. I bought a double walled box at UHaul, so now I just need the pink insulation foam board stuff to do the packaging.

No oil squirters in the F20B, but it appears the rods have a provision to squirt oil at the piston.



 

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I can't wait to see this bad boy on the track! Have you thought about some aero modifications to improve Df or maybe to lower you Cd(I said or because these two numbers feed off each other)? I am in the slow process of setting up my linux based virtual wind tunnel for some testing and if you have any ideas I can always throw those in there.
 
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