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right front lower control arm install

124 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  DennisDoesEverything
hey guys i’m trying to assemble my right front suspension and when i try to bolt by pitman arm to by control arm no matter which angle i threaded the bolts they refused to thread, however the other side threaded in fine without difficulty. he only way i can get the bolts to thread in is if i take my control arm out but when i take it out it doesn’t line up to the body anymore, so i’m wondering if it’s a personal mistake or a machining issue

Here’s a photo of what it looks like when the bolts are in but it’s not lining up

Gas Nickel Machine Metalworking hand tool Metal

And here’s an image showing how the bolts don’t line up

Automotive tire Wood Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system

i’ll say again that no matter how hard i try these two bolt holes will not light up with the control arm installed only way i can get it is if the control arm is off but when it’s off it doesn’t fit as the above picture shows so pls let me know what’s up because this has completely stopped my progress, thanks.
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Did you set it to wumbo? Just kidding, that is the radius rod correct? If so, are you trying to install the parts with tension on the opposite side? (Any type of force or tension tends to give you a hard time aligning parts) I'm sure you already figured it out since it's an older thread.
I had a quite similar problem and it turned out I had unknowingly installed a subframe assembly with crash damage. The place where the LCA bolts on the subframe was tweaked backwards by about 3/4". You wouldn't notice if you weren't looking for it, but it becomes obvious when comparing both sides. I was going crazy thinking I had installed a radius rod from the wrong car, or something, or that my LCA was weird, but nope it was just that the subframe was placing the LCA in the wrong location.

Luckily I still have my old subframe (it just has rust, which is why I swapped it), but I was in a hurry because I needed to move and just needed to turn the shell into a roller so I could tow the car to its new home. So what I ended up doing instead of swapping the subframe back was to install just 1/2 of an Energy Suspension bushing; with half of the poly removed I could pull the LCA forward enough to also bolt the radius rod. (I don't recommend you do that! It just gives an idea how ability to bolt the radius rod on partly depends on ability to squish/twist that LCA to subframe bushing. I suppose a really stiff or misaligned stock bushing could also present a problem!)
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