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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched, and read a few descriptions and videos of the process. But as I'm sure you know each situation is a little different.

I did read Fallacy's write up already, and tried that method and got nada regarding a correctly functioning clutch. That is why I wrote this post.

Anyway, so I've installed a new master and a new slave. I put fresh fluid into both before installing them. I submerged the master inlet/outlet ports and pumped until I saw no bubbles. I also made sure that the slave had fluid in it as well before I did anything. One thing to note, is that the slave I installed had to be compressed quite a bit in order for me to get it into position between the mounting holes and the clutch fork. The clutch fork also has about .75-.5 inches of travel in any direction, when unloaded, is that normal?

So I tightened the lines running into both cylinders and proceeded to pump the master using the master rod, not the pedal. I stopped after about 20 times because I wasn't getting any more bubbles in the reservoir.

Next I went tot the slave and hooked up a vacuum bleeder and tried to pull vacuum, with the clutch pedal in the upright position, not depressed. I got a few bubbles and some fluid, but not much.

The clutch would still drop to the floor instantly, so I went ahead and compressed the slave, which created a ton of bubbles at the master reservoir. I did this for about 10-15 minutes, compressing the slave by hand to force air out.

I finally got 'some' pressure in the clutch pedal, but if I push it, it stays on the floor. I'm a little stumped on this one, and would appreciate any help. I know that's a lot of text/questions, but honestly, I do appreciate your time.
 

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Might be time to replace the old worn out line from the master to the slave
 

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Pretty much.


Or replace the soft line between the transmission and clutch damper


Entire line to a braided line covers all bases though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Success! I kept doing what I was doing, and then did a 2-man job bleedign the slave the old fashioned way and the pedal now has pressure. I took the car for a drive and it was shifting perfectly.

So I stopped for some gas and when pulling out of the station it refused to go into gear at all, had to be forced. I have a bad feeling the clutch fork is bent! Would that make sense? Clutch pedal travel is fine, and it goes into gears, with the engine off. Seems to me that the pressure plate isn't getting the right signal to disengage the clutch from the friction surface?
 

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Needs to be bled more.
x2, no way your fork is going to get bent from regular operation. car going into gears with the engine off is irrelevant since nothing is moving. as the other said, check your soft line too. or pull that whole rats nest out of there and replace it with a rywire braided line. i bled the sucker in literally 90 seconds. excellent product.
 

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X3. It's highly unlikely your clutch fork is bent.

Sometimes it takes more bleeding than you think it would to get those clutch cylinders bled properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all of the help guys! turns out that the hydraulic system was only half of the problem. Yes the slave was shot, but the master was ok. I replaced both and eventually got a firm pedal. The mechanic at the shop I took it to confirmed that the pressure plate and clutch were shot, and the flywheel needed a resurfacing.

So the car drives great now, like a totally new car. Except for that 5th gear grind lmao. I'm going to go ahead and save up for a new synchro/gearset and do it myself when the time comes.

Despite all of the aggravation, I think I really love this car and the way it drives, so the money is a small price to pay. Thanks again.
 

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Our clutch hydraulics are VERY easy to gravity bleed. I always just leave the slave open and keep topping off the master as it drains. Works perfectly every time
 
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