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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a 97 5th gen that seems to be in pretty good condition and I want to daily it as my first car. Only thing is it has a bunch of mods on it and I’m not sure if it’ll make a good daily, so I thought I’d ask first.
29035
 

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I lub Denny one tiem
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if the car is running good sounds like a good build. 250whp is impressive for all motor h22 with stock pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
if the car is running good sounds like a good build. 250whp is impressive for all motor h22 with stock pistons.
Yeah he sent me a vid of him driving around and it seems good. I’m not sure if the tune/mods affect the daily drive ability or reliability of the car. Also, does anyone know why he would swap from obd2 to obd1? Just curious
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah he sent me a vid of him driving around and it seems good. I jus wanna know if it’s a good daily since this is my first car and I’m not too familiar with h22’s and how the handle mods. I’ve heard that the engine can crack if they over heat and oil can leak into your coolant. I know it’s pretty general and I might sound kinda stupid but I thought it was worth asking. Don’t want to get into something I’m not sure of
I’m also gonna go check it out this weekend hopefully everything is alright
 

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Number 1 rule to buying a car: Do NOT buy someone else's project. Never.

Unless you intend for this to be a project - avoid it like the plague.


On ebay headers, stock pistons and no mention of camshafts or fuel upgrades - I don't believe that car is anywhere over 200whp. Unless he has more he's not talking about or maybe even a dyno graph to prove it, it takes a whole lot more to get that power N/A.
 

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1990 Honda Prelude 2.0Si, 1989 Honda Prelude 2.0Si 4ws, 1990 Honda Prelude Si 4ws, etc.
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I'm with Wing8806 on this one, to be honest. I won't touch a car that's been lowered. People do it all the time, and I hardly ever see anyone do it correctly. It probably rides terrible and has a ton of negative camber going on that will affect your tire wear. That 6-puck ACT clutch probably makes it difficult to drive on the street - the clutch pedal will be stiff as hell. On top of this, he probably wants top dollar for it because he thinks all the extra crap he's done to it makes it worth more. It doesn't. Modified cars are worth less, not more. I don't care wtf you spent on the parts it didn't need. I won't pay extra for them. I don't want to discover through regular use all the stuff you did wrong and have to figure it out and fix it myself. This is someone trying to unload a problem child onto someone else. This sounds like it might be a decent track car for someone, but not something you'd want to drive around town or on any sort of longer trip. Don't willingly inherit someone else's problem if you can help it, and certainly do not PAY for someone else's problem.
 
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Correct - I bought my Prelude with a decent engine and little rust on the body bc it was bone stock for my project bc I’m already rebuilding the engine and Ik the cost I’m putting to it the engine, body and performance brakes, shokes, etc it better when someone else didn’t mess with it
 

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1999 Prelude. F20B/K20A hybrid rebuild
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He’s 101% Lying about the power so take that into consideration about everything he says about the entire car. It’s a h22a4, it’s probably making 175whp realisically maybe not even over 190 WITH those mods. I’ve seen people dyno under 200whp with the same mods. Seems like the owner is trying to pull a fast one on someone looking for a “race car”. I wouldn’t tell him it’s your first car either, will probably get him excited to lie to you about more stuff just to buy it. My best advice, STAY AWAY and buy a stock Prelude
 

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1999 Prelude. F20B/K20A hybrid rebuild
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And to answer your question, in order to be tuned it has to have a obd1 Ecu. If you have a emissions inspection in your state/county you won’t be able to pass.
 

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In case the point hasn't been driven home yet: Avoid that car like the plague. That's someone else's roach project that will NOT make a good daily driver.

Once you start seeing information about engine internals, OBD conversions, and dyno tuning... run.
 

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Someone else mentioned, if you live somewhere with emissions inspections, the car will fail. The "straight piped" exhaust = no catalytic converter.

The Fidenza flywheel is also something I personally avoid, as it's aluminum with steel face bolted on. Different metals have different thermal expansion rates from heat, and I just don't trust that on my flywheel.

In addition, the engine modifications sound half assed. Why would you go to the effort to cut the crank, put in "race" bearings, and then use stock rods and pistons?

FYI, headers are well known to have little effect on these cars, as the stock exhaust manifold is not far off of being a header.

Like others said, stay away from this one.
 
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