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This has done before, but I am going to do a write-up again(sorry Todd).
Well after many years of service the powersteering line that causes fires in our cars , gave out on me.
So, I decided to pull it and do the newer Honda powersteering route.
(Edit: 11-17-2018 - Prices are subject to change due to labor and shipping increases. I will try my best to keep the prices low.)
I am selling the same setup for $260.00 + $35.00 + paypal fees (Domestic)shipping. International shipping is higher.
Send Payment paypal to: [email protected]
I will need your core line shipped to me, as I am having a guy make them for me. These lines will be easy to replace(if they ever need replacing) once you install them.
A plug and play replacement. I felt this is better for the overall setup and looks nice too! Plus it gives way to you turbo wanna bee's. These lines are also adjustable to sit at the best possible angle that you feel is best for your setup.
Details:
Please ship the core line to me, I will provide my address and further instructions upon receiving your email.
Email: [email protected]
Updated: 11-17-2018 - Here is the new line I had made(Rubber) Stainless Steel for now is no longer an option due to local suppier does not offer.
Updated 4-10-2010, new pics of the line when you receive it from me:
![]()
![]()
Old Line below:
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
New H22 Swap Line:
![]()
The difference with my setup is that I had them keep that sensor from the original line.
I got the car as high as I could on the jack stands.
I then started unbolting the necessary accessories, Intake, coil wire, resister pack on the firewall and wiring.
Now I was one of the unfortunate fools who still had the black air box resonator from the stock intake on the back of the intake manifold. So that took me about 45 minutes of hard manuevering to get out from behind the intake manifold.(That was a Bi..!!)
![]()
Unbolt the line from the block:
![]()
This hard line goes around the side of the engine toward the back of the intake manifold and then down toward the powersteering rack.
Here is where you take off the cover for the rack that protects the lines.
![]()
And here is the lines. You should be able to tell which line it is from looking at it, but if you don't, its the one with the biggest fitting.
![]()
Now you need to know that there is a bolt holding the line on the frame, right below the intak mani on the driver side. Unbolt that.
![]()
You will need to access the back of the manifold for most of your work. Make sure to use mechanic's gloves or those cheap rubber coated gloves you can get at your local hardware store, cuz you will need it to get your hands back there without cutting yourself bad.
![]()
There is a bracket that holds the line on the back of the manifold, pull the line off and then unbolt it.
Once you remove all the bolted down locations, its time to tacke manuevering that line around the block so you can pull it out. I can't instruct you on how do that, its just a do it yourself thing so you will just have to look at it and figure it out.
I can tell you that I was able to get mine out by going from the passenger's side toward the driver side via the back of the manifold and then pulled the line thru that small space between the heater and A/C lines behind the block. YOu just have to wiggle it thru without damaging anything, and beware of the vaccum lines not to sever them.
Once you do get the line thru the back, then next step is to wiggle and bend the hard line from the rack upward toward you. You will need to go from the top and from the bottom to do this. That is really not that hard to do. Just be carefull not to damage that line while pullin it out.
Once the line has been pulled out, then start on replacing the new line. I recommend replacing the bottom hard line first with the new line attatched to it. Just unbolt the line from the top, since it will be easier to bolt back in place from the top.
Trying to tighten the line while its down in the engine will prove to be hard and annoying.
![]()
Once you bolt down the hard line, you will never need to mess with it again.
The only thing you will ever need to replace will probably be the stainless steel line(which will not be for a very long time).
Here is what it looks like after its all done. Walla!! your new Stainless Steel Powersteering line.
Enjoy.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Update: 10/12/07
Here is the new and improved design for the Powersteering line.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Update (3-16-2008): New H22 Swap Line
H22 PowerSteering Line
![]()
H23 PowerSteering Line
![]()
Well after many years of service the powersteering line that causes fires in our cars , gave out on me.
So, I decided to pull it and do the newer Honda powersteering route.
(Edit: 11-17-2018 - Prices are subject to change due to labor and shipping increases. I will try my best to keep the prices low.)
I am selling the same setup for $260.00 + $35.00 + paypal fees (Domestic)shipping. International shipping is higher.
Send Payment paypal to: [email protected]
I will need your core line shipped to me, as I am having a guy make them for me. These lines will be easy to replace(if they ever need replacing) once you install them.
A plug and play replacement. I felt this is better for the overall setup and looks nice too! Plus it gives way to you turbo wanna bee's. These lines are also adjustable to sit at the best possible angle that you feel is best for your setup.
Details:
Please ship the core line to me, I will provide my address and further instructions upon receiving your email.
Email: [email protected]
Updated: 11-17-2018 - Here is the new line I had made(Rubber) Stainless Steel for now is no longer an option due to local suppier does not offer.
Updated 4-10-2010, new pics of the line when you receive it from me:
Old Line below:
New H22 Swap Line:
The difference with my setup is that I had them keep that sensor from the original line.
I got the car as high as I could on the jack stands.
I then started unbolting the necessary accessories, Intake, coil wire, resister pack on the firewall and wiring.
Now I was one of the unfortunate fools who still had the black air box resonator from the stock intake on the back of the intake manifold. So that took me about 45 minutes of hard manuevering to get out from behind the intake manifold.(That was a Bi..!!)
Unbolt the line from the block:
This hard line goes around the side of the engine toward the back of the intake manifold and then down toward the powersteering rack.
Here is where you take off the cover for the rack that protects the lines.
And here is the lines. You should be able to tell which line it is from looking at it, but if you don't, its the one with the biggest fitting.
Now you need to know that there is a bolt holding the line on the frame, right below the intak mani on the driver side. Unbolt that.
You will need to access the back of the manifold for most of your work. Make sure to use mechanic's gloves or those cheap rubber coated gloves you can get at your local hardware store, cuz you will need it to get your hands back there without cutting yourself bad.
There is a bracket that holds the line on the back of the manifold, pull the line off and then unbolt it.
Once you remove all the bolted down locations, its time to tacke manuevering that line around the block so you can pull it out. I can't instruct you on how do that, its just a do it yourself thing so you will just have to look at it and figure it out.
I can tell you that I was able to get mine out by going from the passenger's side toward the driver side via the back of the manifold and then pulled the line thru that small space between the heater and A/C lines behind the block. YOu just have to wiggle it thru without damaging anything, and beware of the vaccum lines not to sever them.
Once you do get the line thru the back, then next step is to wiggle and bend the hard line from the rack upward toward you. You will need to go from the top and from the bottom to do this. That is really not that hard to do. Just be carefull not to damage that line while pullin it out.
Once the line has been pulled out, then start on replacing the new line. I recommend replacing the bottom hard line first with the new line attatched to it. Just unbolt the line from the top, since it will be easier to bolt back in place from the top.
Trying to tighten the line while its down in the engine will prove to be hard and annoying.
Once you bolt down the hard line, you will never need to mess with it again.
The only thing you will ever need to replace will probably be the stainless steel line(which will not be for a very long time).
Here is what it looks like after its all done. Walla!! your new Stainless Steel Powersteering line.
Enjoy.
Update: 10/12/07
Here is the new and improved design for the Powersteering line.
Update (3-16-2008): New H22 Swap Line
H22 PowerSteering Line
H23 PowerSteering Line
