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PowerSteering - ReRoute and Replacement

40K views 214 replies 63 participants last post by  1funryd 
#1 · (Edited)
This has done before, but I am going to do a write-up again(sorry Todd).

Well after many years of service the powersteering line that causes fires in our cars , gave out on me.

So, I decided to pull it and do the newer Honda powersteering route.


(Edit: 11-17-2018 - Prices are subject to change due to labor and shipping increases. I will try my best to keep the prices low.)
I am selling the same setup for $260.00 + $35.00 + paypal fees (Domestic)shipping. International shipping is higher.

Send Payment paypal to: 1funryd@comcast.net

I will need your core line shipped to me, as I am having a guy make them for me. These lines will be easy to replace(if they ever need replacing) once you install them.
A plug and play replacement. I felt this is better for the overall setup and looks nice too! Plus it gives way to you turbo wanna bee's. These lines are also adjustable to sit at the best possible angle that you feel is best for your setup.

Details:

Please ship the core line to me, I will provide my address and further instructions upon receiving your email.

Email: 1funryd@comcast.net



Updated: 11-17-2018 - Here is the new line I had made(Rubber) Stainless Steel for now is no longer an option due to local suppier does not offer.

Updated 4-10-2010, new pics of the line when you receive it from me:







Old Line below:
















New H22 Swap Line:








The difference with my setup is that I had them keep that sensor from the original line.


I got the car as high as I could on the jack stands.
I then started unbolting the necessary accessories, Intake, coil wire, resister pack on the firewall and wiring.

Now I was one of the unfortunate fools who still had the black air box resonator from the stock intake on the back of the intake manifold. So that took me about 45 minutes of hard manuevering to get out from behind the intake manifold.(That was a Bi..!!)



Unbolt the line from the block:



This hard line goes around the side of the engine toward the back of the intake manifold and then down toward the powersteering rack.

Here is where you take off the cover for the rack that protects the lines.



And here is the lines. You should be able to tell which line it is from looking at it, but if you don't, its the one with the biggest fitting.




Now you need to know that there is a bolt holding the line on the frame, right below the intak mani on the driver side. Unbolt that.


You will need to access the back of the manifold for most of your work. Make sure to use mechanic's gloves or those cheap rubber coated gloves you can get at your local hardware store, cuz you will need it to get your hands back there without cutting yourself bad.



There is a bracket that holds the line on the back of the manifold, pull the line off and then unbolt it.

Once you remove all the bolted down locations, its time to tacke manuevering that line around the block so you can pull it out. I can't instruct you on how do that, its just a do it yourself thing so you will just have to look at it and figure it out.

I can tell you that I was able to get mine out by going from the passenger's side toward the driver side via the back of the manifold and then pulled the line thru that small space between the heater and A/C lines behind the block. YOu just have to wiggle it thru without damaging anything, and beware of the vaccum lines not to sever them.

Once you do get the line thru the back, then next step is to wiggle and bend the hard line from the rack upward toward you. You will need to go from the top and from the bottom to do this. That is really not that hard to do. Just be carefull not to damage that line while pullin it out.

Once the line has been pulled out, then start on replacing the new line. I recommend replacing the bottom hard line first with the new line attatched to it. Just unbolt the line from the top, since it will be easier to bolt back in place from the top.
Trying to tighten the line while its down in the engine will prove to be hard and annoying.



Once you bolt down the hard line, you will never need to mess with it again.
The only thing you will ever need to replace will probably be the stainless steel line(which will not be for a very long time).

Here is what it looks like after its all done. Walla!! your new Stainless Steel Powersteering line.

Enjoy.









Update: 10/12/07

Here is the new and improved design for the Powersteering line.















Update (3-16-2008): New H22 Swap Line


H22 PowerSteering Line




H23 PowerSteering Line
 
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#2 · (Edited)
have you shut the hood with that line going over the valve cover yet ?

i have no problem with this. this is pretty cool.
mine was a free P/S reroute mod .. KA-POW !!! :D
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243427

and the turbo is going to have the kewlist line ever.. its going to so rock.
 
#3 ·
thanks for the writeup, more to it than i expected. is there anyway you can tuck it away better? also, though i'm not planning on getting one just yet, would we have to send our core in before we get the new line?
 
#12 ·
No Team, I will send you a new one since I will try to have two lines in stock at all times.

If I don't, then I will need your core one, but more than likely I will have the new line just stocked up.

I want to have the lines just waiting to be shipped. When I mail you the new line please re-use the box I send it with for the old line.

posted by CADster -
have you shut the hood with that line going over the valve cover yet ?

i have no problem with this. this is pretty cool.
mine was a free P/S reroute mod .. KA-POW !!! :grin:

and the turbo is going to have the kewlist line ever.. its going to so rock.
Todd, I have no problem with the line especially since I zipped tied it to the hard lines on the shock tower.

posted by Dano - Very nice job.

I think mine will be a bit neater once I replace the hose with Aeroquip stuff.
Dano, I like your fitting better. I am still researching a better fitting. This line was just a test one, once I go back to my guy and show him how it looks, I will have him adjust to probably use another 90 degree bend to move the fitting out of the way for turbo's. But I do believe this will still work for turbo setups.

Sean
 
#4 ·
I would like to try to route the hose down and on the side off the engine somehow. To make the engine bay cleaner.
 
#5 ·
hmmm i kinda like how this is going..... but i cant do anything till i figure out what all i need to do for my swap.... ill let ya know when the time is good....
 
#14 ·
Yeah its the only thing that is shiny in my engine bay..lol! But rememeber my line blew and you saw it with you own eyes:shock: .

The nice thing about this setup is that it is replaceable at any time. After you install it, if and that is a big if, the line goes bad for some reason, you can have it replaced and do all the work from the top of the car without ever having to get under the car again!!(Yeah!)
 
#10 ·
Good job and excellent write up!

Turbo guys may want to modify this setup though, because I know with the ludespeed manifold the fittings near the pump will come really close to the downpipe, but then again maybe you could twist the first 90 angle fitting to the right and use a longer hose. Or... Use the PS connector off of an Integra because that one points to the right.
 
#15 ·
Thank you guys for all the positive feedback!

Fuzzy, I will have the fittings modded for the newer versions to move out of the way for the turbo manifolds.

The guy did an outstanding job for his first time by looking at it and making one measurement. But the next lines I will have him cut those corners a little sharper.

Sean
 
#13 · (Edited)
Yep.. My first try I had my line coming out of the stock outlet like you did. Then I decided to come straight out of the front. The hood frame clearance is very tight with my version. (both) Right where I have the clamp attached to the power steering pump, it's very close even with the fitting only about 1/16" from the pulley. Your route should be missing the hood frame I think. Good job.

My first try..

 
#19 · (Edited)
I will contiune to offer these as long as I can continue to get cores. And they will all be the same length from the sensor to the factory fitting. You will get back the factory hardline from the sensor to the rack and factory fitting at the pump itself so completely bolt on! You will love this set! I know I do. Easy maintenance.

Remember, I need your cores so that it will be a complete bolt on conversion, the hardest part for you all will be just getting the old line off, and although it a bit of a pain, trust me it will way worth the effort and them some.

Right now I am down one core so I only have one in stock. If you dont send me your cores I will charge more due to I have to go and find more cores to make manufacture these.

Thanks guys And I am looking foward to doing some great business with you.

Project Manager,
Sean
 
#27 ·
Just one more added not guys, you don't have to be turbo charged to use this line.

I recommend all the 3rd genners to replace the stock one due to the fire hazard and to free up some room on the front of the engine bay.

Trust me you will like this conversion.

Come on people get on the bandwagon.

Sean
 
#30 ·
I think what you have done here is really good, and
I would buy into it, but.....
your fitting on the steering pump should be altered a little. So it comes out without going over the exhaust. Maybe honda routed them the way they did because they didn't like that line over the belts.
But I certinly would buy this if that fitting was cleaner looking and altered.
 
#33 ·
Is this the only thing you can have stainless steel braided, or are there other things?....

Also, I don't know crap about these kind of lines, but is there any chance they can come in different color?....
Well was only going with the stainless steel color due to strength and a little bit of show. But as far as the lines go, they are very reliable. But as with all things, they are wear and tear items. And that is why I had the line produced this way, so that it is a really simple replacement.

If you bust a line, you can go to a local hose business and have them make another one to replace it.

I can ask my guy if he has any other colors.

Sean
 
#41 ·
I would have a line going under the engine: Hate to have going over the valve cover. Doesn't this thread belong under the selling section?
 
#42 ·
It's not going to be over the valve cover with his re-design. Run the line under the engine ? I can't imagine where this would run. There really is no room there.

To me, the best route is to wind around the strut mount area. You must have a flexible section between the engine and where the line plugs into the rack. Otherwise the hard line will have to deal with engine vibration and movement.
 
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