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My 89 2.0s prelude dies at idle after ran awhile. Like it’s not getting enough air or something. I changed plugs,fuel filter. Been trying to find egr vale and idle air valve to no aval. Can’t find any videos or anything online for that model. Plz help
 

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My 89 2.0s prelude dies at idle after ran awhile. Like it’s not getting enough air or something. I changed plugs,fuel filter. Been trying to find egr vale and idle air valve to no aval. Can’t find any videos or anything online for that model. Plz help
Yeah the carbed model is hard to troubleshoot and fix. I recommend getting the helms technical manual to help you troubleshoot it.
Or you can download the free version off my site: www.1funryd.com
You need to use a pc or a different cell browser if you cannot see the site.
 

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Random abrupt dying is more often electrical than fuel. So does the engine cough and sputter out? Or just stop running? If the distributor is a Hitachi, I would expect igniter, still possible with the TEC, but far less common. The ignition coil is another possibility.
 

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Hook carb fuel inlet to external gas can. Start engine and let nature take its course. if car continues to run its from the carb back to the gas cap, if car stumbles, and u can keep it running by blipping the throttle, then dies, its carb related, if it shuts off suddenly, its spark.
 

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Blainethemono has some very interesting suggestions.

I had a similar issue with my '89 Si starting ok but then dying when I press on the accelerator when the engine reached operating temp. I could feather the accelerator to keep it from dying and it would run ok at higher rpm but it would die but good if I failed to keep the rpm up. Hard starting after that.

I changed the coolant temp sensor because I'd had an earlier issue with hard starting when cold but ok running at operating temp. But I was just guessing this time. Even the earlier problem had more to do with frayed wiring I think.

Eric the Car Guy had good advice when dealing with stalling issues, namely, forget about sensors and go back to the basics. Check, distributor rotor and cap, timing, coil, igniter, plug wires, and plugs. In my case, it was the plugs that needed changing. They were ever so slightly fouled and not the right ones for the colder temps in my new home. I wasn't getting any codes at all and I still don't understand how the even so so plugs could cause such mysterious symptoms. I would have assumed gradual, minor degraded performance but clearly I was wrong.

You solved the plug problem, if any, but the advice to just go back to the (electrical) basics and do a systematic exam of your ignition. Make sure your cooling system is bled so no air in it (if your model has that bleeder valve).

The fact that your problem is temperature related makes me think of my difficulties but maybe I'm talking apples and oranges. However, I don't know why a carburetor problem would show up when the engine reaches operating temp.
 
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