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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just made an account on here cuz this website seems most helpfull for lude owners. I just bought a coolant temp sensor and replaced it without bleeding the coolant. On my way back from school today my car overheated and started spittin coolant all over the top of my engine ?. Do i have air in my coolant system? And if that seems to b my prob what is the easiest way to burp it. ? I'm young and new to this so if anything i said was dum take it easy on me. Haha
 

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Firstly... this question should be in the main 3G section, here is for write-ups and will not been seen by many.

However...
Why did you replace the temp sensor?
You don't just randomly replace things so there should be a reason.
Any information helps us diagnose.

The reason for that and the subsequent overheating may be linked.

You need to bleed the cooling system properly anyway. Search on here as it's been covered in depth and doesn't need repeating too often.

Next option could be a head gasket problem.
 

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If you have coolant spraying you probably have a burst hose. It could cause the overheating or be a result. Like Jon said could be head gasket. Here is the 3rd gen main section: you click on the letters 3rd gen not how to. I wish they would lock this section and add at moderators discretion.

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=197
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for replying

Firstly... this question should be in the main 3G section, here is for write-ups and will not been seen by many.

However...
Why did you replace the temp sensor?
You don't just randomly replace things so there should be a reason.
Any information helps us diagnose.

The reason for that and the subsequent overheating may be linked.

You need to bleed the cooling system properly anyway. Search on here as it's been covered in depth and doesn't need repeating too often.

Next option could be a head gasket problem.


Sorry didnt mean to post in wrong section i just made this account and am learning to use website. But my car was sending code 6 which was coolant temp. After i changed the sensor the cel came off. After i get hme from school today im gonna bleed the coolant. Yesterday i found where the leak was coming from and it was at the end of the hose. i cut the hose and reattched it.Im not sure what hose it was but it comes from the head of the engine to the firewall. What other symptoms could i check for to find if it's a head gasket?
 

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It's not your fault, the admin/mods need to sort this out and make it easier for all of us. But I doubt they pay any attention to it/us.

I'd start with bleeding it (worth a search here for the best way, it takes longer than you'd think).
While doing that check everywhere for any leaks. Keep an eye on temperature.
If all is well you may have no other issues.
If not then report back here with what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's not your fault, the admin/mods need to sort this out and make it easier for all of us. But I doubt they pay any attention to it/us.

I'd start with bleeding it (worth a search here for the best way, it takes longer than you'd think).
While doing that check everywhere for any leaks. Keep an eye on temperature.
If all is well you may have no other issues.
If not then report back here with what you have.
Will def do. and thanks .
 

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The hose you described going from head to firewall is called a heater hose. As far as you posting here. I wasn't attacking you. The moderators at minimum should remove this section from the main forum page. It would eliminate a lot of these misplaced postings. Besides heat oil is the number one cause of hose failure so if you have oil soaked hoses you should clean them and if you have the money I would just replace them. My lude was a one owner when I bought it 12 years ago but it had numerous oil leaks and oil on hoses. I think it was the same hose that popped open for me but it was in the middle of the hose. So yeah if your going to keep it replaces gaskets and seals and distributor and cylinder sensor orings if needed and then clean up and or replace hoses and engine in the process. A clean engine will let you know if you have leaks coming back. Welcome to the site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again.

Sorry to still keep this relevant in the wrong section but im gona update and ask for more advice. After i clipped the hose and reattached it, in the morning i opened the burb plug and filled with coolant . After coolant came out i closed it. and drove around until hot. i then waited until the engine was cold and again repeated the same process. Now my radiator is filled to the top and i couldnt possibly get more coolant in there and on cold starts my car is idle surging. Does this mean there is air in my system still? could there be another leak i dont know about thats letting air in? Thanks for evbody replying and anyadvice will help
 

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make sure your heat selector slide is all the way to hot on climate control and rebleed if it wasn't. Hopefully that will take care of it. You should bleed it like brakes until it has no air bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks and yeah itsbeen on hot. I seen someone say to run it with the radiator cap off until bubbles stop showing. Is this another way ? I'm not overheating anymore but when i cold start it idle surges and that's how it all started last time?.
 

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If you have a long enough hose you just put the wrench on bleed nipple on the water neck/ thermostat housing and leave it on. Then put the hose on could use a wire tie if you want. I think I have tried that been to long to remember if it induced air into the hose or if it sealed the hose. Once you have no more bubbles coming out of the hose your good. Keep the radiator topped off and it sometimes takes awhile so keep an eye or have a buddy keep an eye on the temp gauge. You don't want to overheat the engine. I usually just grab a rinsed out 20 oz plastic pop bottle and use it with a shorter clear hose. If you have the right size clear hose and don't think the radiator will melt it just stick it in the radiator to recapture the bled coolant. Once your sure it is bled good and the radiator stayed topped off put the cap back on. If idle problems persist you may have a headgasket issue or a leak somewhere else. If there is any bubbling in the radiator after getting it bled like lots of bubbles/volatility you might have a head gasket leak. If no bubbles go on to the next thing. Vacuum leaks, if it is fuel injected and doesn't have a carburetor and cold outside your Fast idle valve, fiv, maybe giving you bouncy idle till the engine warms up. If it does go away once warmed up it probably is it. You can remove it from the intake manifold but leave the hoses connected and insert a piece of cereal box like block off cutout to test to see if the bouncy idle goes away. Some youtube videos state to gently tighten down the plastic fitting inside it from its top. I tried that and it didn't help me much. The FIV has a wax plug in its bottom that it operates from. They can get dried out and not warm up and expand preventing the rest of the FIV from doing its job. It depends what engine you have to which FIV you would need. One engine it is available aftermarket the other I think from Honda. But it has been awhile since I looked at those parts online.

If you mentioned what engine you have I missed it. So if you could post that up and if it has a manual or automatic transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a automatic b20a5 and yea when its on a cold start it doesnt start the idle bouncing until i hit the gas at about 3000 rpms then it bounces between 1500 -2000 rpm when in park and neutral. once i put it in drive the idle goes rite bak to normal. Then park again and it does it. after driving for a lil it go bak to normal
 
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